Leaving Zion National Park early morning via the Scenic Zion Mt. Carmel Highway.

Bryce Canyon, Chess Anyone??

Kathy looking down before the ridge ascent ... a big mistake.

Kathy determined to make it to the top of Angels Landing.

View of the descending Peek-A-Boo Trail.

View of the ridge and sheer rock face ascending to Angels Landing face drop.

Bryce Canyon afternoon showing.

The author enjoys the crisp, clean Utah air.

Angels Landing Hike was not for the weak at heart.

Checkerboard Mesa located at the east end of Zion is named so because of the cross-bedded pattern in the rock.

A quick stop to view nature’s art after the turn off from the from Mt. Carmel Scenic Byway.

Traveling on Scenic Byway 12 toward Escalante.

By Kathy Jelaca-Maxwell #91672

The 2011 winter in Southern California was exciting, odd, unusual, and definitely not motorcycle riding weather. I took this downtime opportunity to write about a ride my husband and I took last summer. 

Starter buttons pushed on at 0' dark-thirty as we began our motorcycle journey from Ventura, CA to the canyons of Zion and Bryce for our first visit to these spectacular creations of nature. The eye opening sunrise over Hwy 14 to Pear Blossom Hwy was a radiant morning wake up. We followed some of the old Route 66 (now I-40). I got my souvenir 'Route 66' sticker, and after several warm and breezy hours of freeway drone, we arrived in Laughlin, Nevada.

Nestled below some hills on the Colorado River, Laughlin is a gambling resort in southern Nevada that has transformed part of the rugged Mojave Desert into a growing tourist destination. It is an appealing alternative to the Vegas scene with ample gambling and entertainment, but no Cirque du Soleils. The warm and calm night air provided the perfect ambiance to our stay.

When day broke dawn, we headed north on St. Rte. 165 as the early morning sun greeted the clear sky. The wind decided to sleep in so we were able to enjoy, in near solitude, the long sweeping curves through this desert highway. We traveled until Boulder City, NV where we stopped for breakfast at a quaint outdoor café. Boulder City, overlooking Lake Mead, is only 20 miles from Las Vegas. It was born from the creation of the Hoover Damn project. If you have the time, it is the perfect place to spend a day. With a quaint atmosphere and beautiful historic charm, there is plenty to see and do. The main street wears an artsy, earthy attire, and attracts the artist inside to explore the many galleries and unique boutiques. 

Outside of Boulder City, St Rte 165 winds into 166 through Henderson NV, then to 167 around Lake Mead. There is $10.00 fee per motorcycle to enter the Lake Mead Recreation Area.  We did half the loop around the lake on 2-lane undulating paved roads where long sweeping curves traveled through areas of brilliant red rock canyons and crossed Joshua-tree forests while panoramic views of blue Lake Mead occasionally appeared into view. We came upon some road construction where we engaged in about 20 miles of gravel road. The road was no deterrent to my BMW 650GS.  Jeff's (husband) bike, a BMW R100RS felt more like a stranger on the bumpy, dusty road.

We followed St Rte 167 out of the Mead Recreation Area where as the sun rose higher in the sky so did the temperature. St Rte 167 turns into 169, and eventually ends at an I-15 junction. Generally interstates are my least favorite travel roads. Some interstate journeys though can be a time for thought; a friend calls this hum travel time, 'Helmet Time' (http://themotoworld.wordpress.com/2010/01/05/helmet-time/) and on those straight and seemingly endless roads, there can be lots of 'Helmet Time'. Travel on I-15 north from Mesquite winds through the Virgin River Gorge. The gorge is actually located in the northwest corner of Arizona and exposes several beds of rock that lace the steep walls of the gorge. Travel on this portion of I-15 is not a 'Helmet Time' occasion. It is one of the most stunning engineering marvels along the Interstate Highway System. The 2 lanes north and south are generally packed tight with cars and trucks (over 24,000 vehicles per day) where drivers are trying to pay attention to what has been touted as the most expensive section of rural interstate highway ever constructed.  Dangerous crosswinds, tight curves and falling racks are some of the challenges encountered on this scenic stretch. I was only able to enjoy this highway marvel on a YouTube video after our trip as I was desperately fighting the wind and the semi trucks to stay on the road.

We stopped in St. George UT for gas and brief period of regeneration and were soon back on a more mellow I-15 for a short stint before turning off to St Rte 90 which for the most part follows the Virgin River into Zion National Park. The North Fork of the Virgin River is famous for carving Zion Canyon. We arrived in Springdale, the gateway to Zion, and easily found our motel.

Our remaining 2 days in Zion were filled with lots of exploration by foot. Zion National Park is closed to traffic from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. During this time, the only way into the park is via foot or by shuttle which runs continously and stops at several attractions throughout where you can get on and off at your leisure. We visited the Zion Visitor Center and the historic Zion Lodge, first built in 1920 to accomodate 10 visitors/day. We enjoyed viewing some of the majestic peaks from the valley floor including three stunning peaks named after the religious figures Abraham, Issac, and Jacob.

The park is known for exceptional hiking, due to its steep trails and amazing views. Most of the trailheads are a close walk from a shuttle stop and there is hiking for all levels from casual easy to Stairmaster difficult. We did a bit of both including the Emerald Pools, Weeping Rock, and Angels Landing. The most challenging hike was Angels Landing. This hike is not recommended for acrophobics, pregnant women, or folks who have cardiovascular problems. This epic trail is one of the two top attractions in Zion. The path winds its way up steep switchbacks through the coolness of the 'Refrigerator Canyon' and past some strange and interesting geologic formations. Once the trail gains the ridgeline, it continues to narrow and steepen as the ridge ascends 1500-feet above the valley floor. After several false summits, the trail ends at an incredible perch, a bald rocky prow, with beyond breathtaking 360 degree views of Zion Canyon. My husband and I started up the ridge ascent and initially both turned back because the path was on a narrow ledge with a precipitous stomach turning drop. There was a chain rail to hold onto, but with the lofty breezes, and the adrenaline surging, the rail somehow was not particularly comforting. We turned back and rested at Scouts Lookout while watching other hikers slowly ascend the rock face of the ridge. I regrouped my emotions, tried to calm by racing heart, and started back up the trail again, alone this time. Immediately, I figured the key to success was to avoid looking down. I felt like I was ascending to heaven. With shaking knees and an over excited heart, I managed to make it to the top. It was exhilarating.

After three lovely days in Zion, we woke up to a cool, clear-skied morning and began our adventure to Bryce Canyon. It felt good to be back on the bikes. We had no idea of the grandeur and beauty that would frequently greet us on our trip to Bryce. The early morning sky had an ethereal glimmer and the Zion Mt. Carmel Highway that journeyed us out of Zion demanded as much attention as we could possibly give riding motorcycles. The twisting and turning road was built from Zion sandstone and wore a rich deep rustic color. One of the main attractions on the road was the 1.1-mile long Zion Mt. Carmel Tunnel. The tunnel was blasted and cut in the thick Navajo sandstone in the 1930's. Our motorcycle headlights were like coal miner helmets guiding us through the darkness. 

Along the Zion Mt. Carmel Hwy (Rte 9), we stopped several times to marvel at magnificent breath-taking views. A particular interesting stop was the geological wonder, Checkerboard Mesa, located at the east end of the park, named due to the cross-bedded rock pattern, but famous due to its rarity. Zion Mt. Carmel Highway ranks among the top scenic roads I have traveled.

Soon we headed north on the Mt. Carmel Scenic Byway. This byway is part of the Heritage Highway program that supports and protects the pioneer heritage of sites found along Hwy 89. Along this byway, there are beautiful mountains dotted with small towns and interesting stops. The rock shops in Orderville offer unique Utah geodes and some quaint little stores have their doors open to sell handmade Indian blankets, jewelry, rugs and other goods. The charming and Historic Smith Hotel, built in 1927, is found in Glendale with its door still open for public lodging. The ride along this road was charming with a constantly changing terrain, flora, and climate.

We stayed on Mt. Carmel Scenic Byway until we reached the St. Rte 12 junction, touted as the 'Scenic Byway 12'. This byway travels 124 miles through the Dixie National Forest and is home to three National Parks: Bryce, Capitol Reef, and Lake Powell. Once on this scenic byway, we were warmly greeted by vermilion-colored rock formations and Ponderosa pines. We stopped for a brief visit at the Red Canyon Visitor Center. The seemingly spectacular Red Canyon was only a glimpse of what was to unfold in Bryce Canyon. 

We checked into our motel in Bryce before noon and continued to explore the sites along St. Rte 12. The features along this scenic 2-lane byway are endless providing a kaleidoscope of history, nature, and scenic beauty, and no better way to enjoy it than on a motorcycle. We passed through the communities of Tropics, Cannonville, Henrieville, and Escalante. We stopped at the Escalante-Cannonville Visitors Center. After our visit, we enjoyed a packed lunch in solitude under a cool, breezed canopy at the park across from the center. By this time the desert sun was high in the sky and the temperatures followed suit. We headed back to Bryce stopping at the Escalante Petrified Forest State Park where we walked the shorter trails in what felt like a desert sauna.

Bryce Canyon is indescribable. My husband said, "Disney could not have made this up." The colors and formations written in the brilliant sandstone by millions of years of air and water erosion were absolutely breathtaking, like scenes and characters from a fairytale, filled with turrets, spirals, goblins, and ghosts. We entered this fantasyland and like characters in a fairytale, we were enveloped by its surreal beauty and fascination. The awe inspiring array of different shapes are known as 'hoodoos' and are believed to cast their spell on all who visit. The Bryce Visitor Center provides all the resources needed to explore the park.

As in Zion, most of our exploration was on foot and via the park shuttle.  Our most amazing hike was the Peek-A-Boo Loop trail.  The 5.5-mile trail begins at Bryce Point and drops quickly to the canyon floor. This hike is through the spectacular heart of the the Bryce Amphitheater. We hiked at a near snail's pace because literally almost every step along the way was a 'Kodak Moment'.  We sauntered through the hoodos, like Bilbo Baggins in the Hobbit, expecting at any moment a fairytale dragon to emerge forcing us to engage in a battle of good versus evil. Bryce Canyon is transcedential, religious, spiritual, awakening, and humbling.

After our most amazing hike, we afforded the luxuries of the Bryce Canyon Lodge.  Imbued with rustic charm and the ambiance of old frontier America, the lodge reminded me of a stop Teddy Rosevelt would have taken on one of his many hunting adventures. We enjoyed the ambiance, a cold draft beer, and a hearty snack.

We got an early start the next day to begin our journey back to the day-to-day work and family life, but not before an overnight stay in Las Vegas. Our route to Vegas back-tracked us on I-15 until St. Rte. 169 which took us through the southern part of the 'Valley of Fires State Park' and over the western portion of the 'Lake Mead National Recreation Area' both worth visiting. We arrived in Las Vegas tired and hungry, but were easily brought to life by the Vegas energy. We dined Italiano and saw Cirque Du Soleil, 'Mystere'... what a treat.

The final lap of our wonderful week was the ride home. Helmet time on I-15 to St. Rte 14, I-5, then to St. Rte. 126, and to home sweet home Ventura, for a while anyway.