100-K on the Way

scotchale · 10-28-2009, 08:45 PM

Noticed today my 04 RT rolled over to 95,000 miles. I figure by spring-time, it will hit 100K miles. For the most part, it has been trouble free and has rung up some miles over the last three years I've had it...purchased from first owner with about 58,000 miles on it. I also have been pulling a Uni-go Trailer over the last two years on my long-haul trips with this RT.

Point of this posting would be any thoughts on what I should do maintenance wise at the 100K mile mark ? More serious items such as Alternator, alternator belt, U-joints on the drive assembly. I don't plan any grand rebuild/disassembly, but figure it would be worth giving the unit some TLC beyond the usual oil/lube, tires, etc.

I haven't fully decided how much longer I'll keep it, I'm itching for a GS next year, but I do want to see it roll over the last zero !

Scotchale

JimMoore · 10-29-2009, 06:01 AM

I'd consider getting a driveshaft.

NavyDad · 10-29-2009, 08:55 AM

Apparently whatever you have been doing so far is working. Don’t fix what ain’t broke.

JWILLIS125911 · 10-29-2009, 02:14 PM

Perhaps replace the timing chain and tensior?

PGlaves · 10-29-2009, 04:05 PM

Voni's R1100RS is over 340K and my R1150R is now at about 125K. Here other RS was over 75K when she sold it and her S is now at about 75K.

What I would do at the 100K mark is:

1. Check the throttle bodies for shaft wear. Rebuild or replace if you find enough wear to allow air to leak at the shaft.

2. Physically remove and carefully inspect the driveshaft. Feel and listen to both U joints trying to detect slop, looseness, notchiness, or faint clicking. You find slop or noise, replace it. Otherwise - plan to check it again at 25K increments or so. At 150K I'd replace it for peace of mind probably, but a new one is now over $900.

3. As on every Final Drive oil change, carefully inspect the plug magnet and carefully feel for any play in the final drive.

4. Replace the final drive paralever pivot bearings. I would use the bronze bushings sold at the Rubber Chicken Racing Garage, but you will almost certainly need those or a new set of OEM bearings.

5. As on every tire change, carefully press against and rotate each front wheel bearing. If they have oozed grease, or feel at all gritty, replace the wheel bearings.

6. Remove and clean the starter. Re-lubricate the nose bushing and the nose gear drive mechanism. Check the brushes.

7. Replace the alternator regulator/brush holder assembly, or remove the old one and solder in new brushes.

osbornk · 10-31-2009, 07:28 AM

If you have kept your bike maintained properly, the mileage event is just another day and you don't need to do anything.

Ken

PGlaves · 10-31-2009, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osbornk

If you have kept your bike maintained properly, the mileage event is just another day and you don't need to do anything.

Ken

Except that there are certain wear items not related to routine service that have a finite life and 100K is a good time to check them. Certainly you could do it at 98K or 107K or some similar number. Throttle bodies often show wear in the 80K range and driveshafts sometimes break U joints at 125K (some go over 200K or less than 70K) and alternator brushes only last so long, etc.

Now if you check each of these items every 6K or 12K as part of a routine service, excellent. But most people don't pull and inspect these things that often.

scotchale · 11-01-2009, 03:50 PM

"Now if you check each of these items every 6K or 12K as part of a routine service, excellent. But most people don't pull and inspect these things that often"

That's somewhat the reason I posted this thread. I also remember a recent article in MOA you wrote about concerning the drive shaft issues, so that is fresh in my mind. Another club member had issues with the alternator belt, so that is another thing to keep in mind.

Primarily getting a list together and planning a few days to work on this RT sometime next spring.

Scotchale

TheRoss · 11-05-2009, 03:19 PM

And make sure to get a photo of the milestone!

boxerr · 11-05-2009, 08:40 PM

I would agree with Pauls ideas. As you have been towing a trailer, the drive end would definately need looking at.

harryt11 · 11-06-2009, 11:10 AM

Action shot of the rollover:

JimMoore · 11-07-2009, 04:48 AM

Here's mine. Edit: Sorry I couldn't find a bigger pic.

jamesdunn · 11-07-2009, 06:23 AM

My '94 RSL only has 46,000 miles, most of 'em mine. (Four years ownership,but riding my ol' airhead a bunch too.) The previous owner never rode it. To read about an '04 with 100,000 coming up makes me envious! Now, if only I lived in a climate I could ride year 'round!

10-28-2009, 08:45 PM	#1
scotchale Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Hondo, Texas Posts: 68	100-K on the Way Noticed today my 04 RT rolled over to 95,000 miles. I figure by spring-time, it will hit 100K miles. For the most part, it has been trouble free and has rung up some miles over the last three years I've had it...purchased from first owner with about 58,000 miles on it. I also have been pulling a Uni-go Trailer over the last two years on my long-haul trips with this RT. Point of this posting would be any thoughts on what I should do maintenance wise at the 100K mile mark ? More serious items such as Alternator, alternator belt, U-joints on the drive assembly. I don't plan any grand rebuild/disassembly, but figure it would be worth giving the unit some TLC beyond the usual oil/lube, tires, etc. I haven't fully decided how much longer I'll keep it, I'm itching for a GS next year, but I do want to see it roll over the last zero ! Scotchale

10-29-2009, 02:14 PM	#4
JWILLIS125911 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 34	Perhaps replace the timing chain and tensior? __________________ IBA # 31809 2007 K1200GT

10-29-2009, 04:05 PM	#5
PGlaves Benchwrenching Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: "Big Bend" TX Posts: 3,594	Voni's R1100RS is over 340K and my R1150R is now at about 125K. Here other RS was over 75K when she sold it and her S is now at about 75K. What I would do at the 100K mark is: 1. Check the throttle bodies for shaft wear. Rebuild or replace if you find enough wear to allow air to leak at the shaft. 2. Physically remove and carefully inspect the driveshaft. Feel and listen to both U joints trying to detect slop, looseness, notchiness, or faint clicking. You find slop or noise, replace it. Otherwise - plan to check it again at 25K increments or so. At 150K I'd replace it for peace of mind probably, but a new one is now over $900. 3. As on every Final Drive oil change, carefully inspect the plug magnet and carefully feel for any play in the final drive. 4. Replace the final drive paralever pivot bearings. I would use the bronze bushings sold at the Rubber Chicken Racing Garage, but you will almost certainly need those or a new set of OEM bearings. 5. As on every tire change, carefully press against and rotate each front wheel bearing. If they have oozed grease, or feel at all gritty, replace the wheel bearings. 6. Remove and clean the starter. Re-lubricate the nose bushing and the nose gear drive mechanism. Check the brushes. 7. Replace the alternator regulator/brush holder assembly, or remove the old one and solder in new brushes. __________________ Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

10-31-2009, 07:28 AM	#6
osbornk Hillbilly in the sticks Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Marion VA Posts: 1,595	If you have kept your bike maintained properly, the mileage event is just another day and you don't need to do anything. Ken __________________ Black 86 R80RT Brown 03 R1200CLC

11-05-2009, 03:19 PM	#9
TheRoss Certified Beemerphile Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 145	And make sure to get a photo of the milestone! __________________ Christopher Ross, Texas IBA, MOA, RA, Rounders http://www.flickr.com/photos/therealross/

10-29-2009, 06:01 AM	#2
JimMoore Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 352	I'd consider getting a driveshaft.

10-29-2009, 08:55 AM	#3
NavyDad Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Chillicothe, Ohio. Close to some of the best riding in the country Posts: 97	Apparently whatever you have been doing so far is working. Don’t fix what ain’t broke.

11-01-2009, 03:50 PM	#8
scotchale Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Hondo, Texas Posts: 68	"Now if you check each of these items every 6K or 12K as part of a routine service, excellent. But most people don't pull and inspect these things that often" That's somewhat the reason I posted this thread. I also remember a recent article in MOA you wrote about concerning the drive shaft issues, so that is fresh in my mind. Another club member had issues with the alternator belt, so that is another thing to keep in mind. Primarily getting a list together and planning a few days to work on this RT sometime next spring. Scotchale

11-05-2009, 08:40 PM	#10
boxerr Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Australia Posts: 199	I would agree with Pauls ideas. As you have been towing a trailer, the drive end would definately need looking at.

11-06-2009, 11:10 AM	#11
harryt11 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Beautiful Ft Irwin Posts: 29	Action shot of the rollover:

11-07-2009, 06:23 AM	#13
jamesdunn Mountain King Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Des Moines, Iowa Posts: 941	My '94 RSL only has 46,000 miles, most of 'em mine. (Four years ownership,but riding my ol' airhead a bunch too.) The previous owner never rode it. To read about an '04 with 100,000 coming up makes me envious! Now, if only I lived in a climate I could ride year 'round! __________________ 1994 R1100RSL, '78 R100RS "Time to get low. Time to get fast." ( Will Smith, "Independence Day".)