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Thread: Oil Temperature Display Intermitent Failure

  1. #16
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by jconway607 View Post
    At the $58 cost, it is pretty close to the Honda figure. I can live with that.
    If this part is the source of your problem, and BMW wanted $158.00 for it, you were going to have to live with that, too.

    You could do worse than to listen to Roger. He seems to know what he's talking about when it comes to electrical stuff on our bikes.

  2. #17
    JohnWC
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    Thanks to Roger, and everyone else. I'm going to order the sensor from Beemer Boneyard and put it in. It looks like I need to take the tank off to get to it. I think I can somewhat see it from looking under the tank on the right side. I will let everyone know if that fixes the problem. From what I read in one of my manuals, the tank removal looks fairly easy. Probably not as simple as the airhead tanks are to get off, but still not too bad.

    Off the topic but while I am ordering the sensor I am going to try to get a replacement rubber cover for the side stand return spring. It appears that there was one covering the whole length of the spring at one time. Is that right? Most of mine seems to be missing now.

  3. #18
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Just where is the oil temp sensor is on an oilhead? Maybe this picture will help.

    It's number 3 in the photo on the top of the motor on the right hand side. Follow the plug wire down to it.

    pic2.jpg
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  4. #19
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Here is some more info in case you want to measure the sensor: http://www.uploadarchief.net/files/d...emperature.pdf

    Here is a cross reference to Bosch: http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/463808.html

    Here is a photo of the location from DR on bmwsporttouring: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthread...&Number=780605


    Last edited by roger 04 rt; 08-27-2014 at 11:15 AM.

  5. #20
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    This part? You are in Akron, right?





    I should still have it from my '96 R1100RSL if you want to try it before you buy one. If it works, you can pay me Boneyard's price. If not, you can give it back. I can look for it tonight if you'd like.

    Can't help with the spring covers - mine fell off years ago and I haven't figured out why I needed them in the first place.


  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jconway607 View Post
    I never thought anything would ever go wrong with my 96 R1100RT. It's pretty dependable. But......unfortunately, something has. The oil temperature part of my RID will suddenly go blank. Everything else is showing the way it should, clock, fuel level, etc. After I let the bike sit overnight or so, when I start it up, it is working again. But then I'll be riding and look down, and the bars are gone for oil temp. I have tried fiddling with the wires from behind the panel to see if it would start up again, but no luck. I have also looked in all my manuals for the location of the oil temperature sensor, and I can't find where it is either. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this problem, and also, could someone tell me where the oil temperature sensor is located on the engine? I assume they can be replaced if that is the problem. Anyone had this issue? Thanks for the help.
    I had this problem with my '99 RT last year, about 20K miles ago. The temperature gauge would stop displaying and the bike would run rich. I fixed it by cleaning the connection to the sensor on the right side of the bike above the engine. Unplug the connector and spray some WD40 in there and put it back together. I haven't had a problem since.

    Kelly

  7. #22
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jconway607 View Post
    Thanks to Roger, and everyone else. I'm going to order the sensor from Beemer Boneyard and put it in. It looks like I need to take the tank off to get to it. I think I can somewhat see it from looking under the tank on the right side. I will let everyone know if that fixes the problem.
    Any luck?

  8. #23
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    When unplugged or wires are broken broken, it should register overheated. If you are not seeing your bike saying it is overheated it is problaby not bad.
    For example when you unplug it, the thermostat will read hot. My RT has a cooling fan, the fan goes on when the themostat is unplugged.
    Also, it is easier to change the oil sensor with the engine out. I had to make my own tool to put one in after I replace my motor in April.

  9. #24
    JohnWC
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    Quote Originally Posted by rxcrider View Post
    Any luck?
    Sorry for the delay in reporting back on this job. It's actually turned into a rather long process due to me trying to accomplish two goals at the same time. While all the plastic was off, I thought I would remove the black engine guards and re-paint one that had gotten scratched. The filing went well but I have now painted it a total of four times. I'm hoping this will be the last one. Color wasn't right, too shiny, too flat, paint lifted from one layer to another, had to strip off all the paint, etc. It reminds me of how hard it is to get a good paint job on anything.

    The actual replacement of the sensor was pretty easy. The gas tank mounting system is ingenious, and simple. Unfortunately I haven't ridden it to see if that fixed it. I can't seem to get through a riding season without one of these things happening.

  10. #25
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jconway607 View Post
    I can't seem to get through a riding season without one of these things happening.
    Join the club - thankfully, mine is just annoying. Replaced the leaking vent line in the tank and filters at the same time. I must have damaged the fuel level sender in the process because it has read low ever since. The float is free of the hoses, so I guess it will give me something to do when I'm bored.

  11. #26
    JohnWC
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    Just a final note. I got everything put back together and tested the bike. The display works well so it apparently was just the sensor that was bad. As I noted in a related thread, changing the sensor was fairly easy. Innocent as I am, I thought the tough part of the job was over. Not true. Putting all the plastic back on this time was a nightmare. It took days and the use of a Dremmel tool to get it all fitted back on. Mainly the tank cover screws lining up. But all is well, again. It, and I, am back on the road with an accurate temp display. Thanks to all who helped on this. I appreciate it.

  12. #27
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    Glad she's back together and functional. Equally glad that RS plastics are off and back on in just a few minutes.

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