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Thread: 1972 R50/5 Flooding Issue

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 44006 View Post
    If you are still using the points as in orig bike then you can get a rough test by running warmed bike at idle and briefly removing alternating spark cap (with insulated mit)
    Points or not, I would not recommend doing this. By pulling the cap, the spark energy has no where to go and can create internal problems, especially with the coils. You might not see immediate problems but it can shorten the life of the coil. It was OK to do this with the /2 machines because they had a safety gap under the front cover to allow a path to ground for the spark. Not a recommended method on the later machines.

    Better is to use the spark plug extenders so that a plastic handled screwdriver can be used to short the spark to ground. Accomplishes the same thing without any damage to the electrical system.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisDarrow View Post
    To me, forget about any oil issues as it is for pretty sure in the carb. By chance are you using a fuel filter? If not, perhaps a piece of crud that corrupted the carbs the first time is still in the tank and then as you sat idling the engine a piece of junk caused it to "flood" again????? Try to figure out setting the height of your floats....Do all of your carb tuning on your center stand....Make sure your fuel is clean....With the bike just sitting and the petcock ON, do you get flooding???....Go back to the original configuration. Trading floats was just to try to see if the problem followed the float, which it seems it did not. ......God bless......Dennis
    This strikes a tone with me. I hardly EVER use my side stand. I will move away from thoughts of oil issues as the smoke is clearly white.
    No fuel filters in place. But if "overflowing" is happening (either from too high a float level or a piece of crud is holding the float needle open) then wouldn't it piss on my foot before overflowing the cylinder?

    Someone said something about carb syncing and problems at idle. That's when the cylinder starts to chug and smoke, at idle. If the petcocks are closed at idle (with adequate fuel in the bowl to keep it running) and the chugging and smoking happens then can it really be a overflow problem? Without the backup fuel supply coming from the tank how could it "flood?" That feels like a syncing issue.

    The bike runs great at high rpm.


    Cheers,

    Barrett

  3. #18
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    Pictures: 1.Wet plug and 2.two weeks ago on rt.100 in Granville Notch, VT
    I will retune idle screws and see if that helps.

    New plugs on their way.

    IMG_6463.jpegIMG_0266.jpeg
    Last edited by barrettnjones; 06-18-2014 at 02:48 PM.

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