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Thread: 04 R1150RT Final Drive Rebuild Options

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    Registered User 2dflier's Avatar
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    04 R1150RT Final Drive Rebuild Options

    Hey all. I've had the RT since 62K. It now has 84K. A couple of weeks ago I found some play in the rear end. The dealer advised I bring in the crown gear for wheel bearing replacement. I don't know how reliable a check this is but I didn't detect any play in the bearing by pulling on the tapered bearing end of the gear and it seems to roll smoothly enough (spinning crown gear and nothing noticeable while riding or rotating the rear end before removing the wheel). I did find pivot bearing free play. The outboard pivot bearing was brinnelled and not rotating freely so I removed both and thought my trouble would be limited to just the pivot bearings.

    Before reinstalling the crown gear I inspected the crown gear tapered roller bearing and found all the rollers damaged basically across the entire width and circumference of all rollers. The cup is also pitted in the bottom third or so. I don't know if the damage is spalling or roll over damage but it needs to be replaced. I'm on the 3rd or 4th FD fluid change since I've had the bike and in each case the mag plug only showed dark fine stuff, no sparklies. So I assume the bearings have been dieing a slow death.

    The question is how should I proceed? If I could figure out how to remove the tapered cup from the housing can and should I just replace the bearing set? Can this bearing be replaced without reshimming? I'm assuming the tapered bearing shim (item 4) is primarily to set gear lash and the inner shim (item 2) sets preload. If initial preload is suspect in the bearing damage I'm guessing I should have the entire thing rebuilt correctly.

    So can I replace the tapered bearing? If so how do I remove the cup from the housing?

    If it should be rebuilt should I contact Mr Cutter or are their good options in the Raleigh area? Bombar's Beemers are in Durham but I know nothing about them.

    Thanks much for the help.

    Crown Gear Set.JPG
    May the road rise to meet you...

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    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    "If it should be rebuilt should I contact Mr Cutter or are their good options in the Raleigh area? Bombar's Beemers are in Durham but I know nothing about them."

    Peter Bombar does good work and I wouldn't hesitate to bring it over to him.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  3. #3
    Registered User 2dflier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    Peter Bombar does good work and I wouldn't hesitate to bring it over to him.
    Thank you. I appreciate the reference.
    May the road rise to meet you...

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    Aspiring Profligate jeff488's Avatar
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    Anton Largiador also is an expert at this repair.
    '04 Silver R1150RT "Big Oel". '05 Yellow KLR 650
    '00 Red Suzuki Bandit 600
    '65 Allstate/Puch 250 twingle
    "I just want somewhere to ride and food when I get there."

  5. #5
    Registered User 2dflier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff488 View Post
    Anton Largiador also is an expert at this repair.
    Excellent reference. Thank you.
    May the road rise to meet you...

  6. #6
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Heat the housing and the cup comes out easily with a slide hammer and hook attachment. The bearing is inexpensive from a bearing house.
    The big bearing is also removed/replaced easily. (BMW OE only with special C3 clearance)
    Shimming should be checked - I use the solder method and have had zero issues.
    Not a difficult job if you are comfortable with bearing replacement.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    It's all about the details.

  7. #7
    Registered User 2dflier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    Heat the housing and the cup comes out easily with a slide hammer and hook attachment. The bearing is inexpensive from a bearing house.
    The big bearing is also removed/replaced easily. (BMW OE only with special C3 clearance)
    Shimming should be checked - I use the solder method and have had zero issues.
    Not a difficult job if you are comfortable with bearing replacement.
    Thank you for this and your help at ADV. I'm not familiar with the solder method but will research.
    May the road rise to meet you...

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    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dflier View Post
    Thank you for this and your help at ADV. I'm not familiar with the solder method but will research.
    I use 1mm solder in 4 places 90 deg apart held in place by grease, assemble/torque with no shims.
    Open and measure all 4, add up figures and divide by 4 to split 'c' hairs
    That gives you the baseline for calculating the shim(s) required.

    From the manual: Preload:.......... 0.05...0.1 mm (0.0020 ... 0.0039 in)
    Shim thicknesses are listed on the Max BMW fiche
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    It's all about the details.

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    original lasted 35K miles. Set replacement using the solder method, at 95K and good. Fingers crossed.

    Rod

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    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
    original lasted 35K miles. Set replacement using the solder method, at 95K and good. Fingers crossed.

    Rod
    Methinks you can relax them fingers Rod.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    It's all about the details.

  11. #11
    Registered User ratze's Avatar
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    Its not that difficult of a job, i actually did it while on the road. had bearing an seal with, fortunately it went down close to a buddies garage in gillett wyoming. his wife did not like the idea of me having the crown gear in the freezer and bearing in the oven. i got lucky i guess because i never checked the bearing preload, just assembled as it was, still going today. 33k miles later.
    The pursuit of reality at all cost.

  12. #12
    Registered User 2dflier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    I use 1mm solder in 4 places 90 deg apart held in place by grease, assemble/torque with no shims.
    Open and measure all 4, add up figures and divide by 4 to split 'c' hairs
    That gives you the baseline for calculating the shim(s) required.

    From the manual: Preload:.......... 0.05...0.1 mm (0.0020 ... 0.0039 in)
    Shim thicknesses are listed on the Max BMW fiche
    Appreciate the help, especially the preload specs. I have the Haynes manual, which simply says this job is much too difficult for anyone not named Deiter.
    May the road rise to meet you...

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    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dflier View Post
    Appreciate the help, especially the preload specs. I have the Haynes manual, which simply says this job is much too difficult for anyone not named Deiter.
    Or Helmut..........
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    It's all about the details.

  14. #14
    Registered User 2dflier's Avatar
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    Should the crown tapered bearing be a press fit or is a slip fit okay?

    I've seen images of a bearing puller being used to remove the crown tapered bearing and talk of freezing crown gears and heating bearings to install. Mine is a slip fit.

    Thanks
    May the road rise to meet you...

  15. #15
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dflier View Post
    Should the crown tapered bearing be a press fit or is a slip fit okay?

    I've seen images of a bearing puller being used to remove the crown tapered bearing and talk of freezing crown gears and heating bearings to install. Mine is a slip fit.

    Thanks
    It has not spun has it?
    If you are worried about it, apply a bit of blue loctite to the surface
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    It's all about the details.

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