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Thread: DAMNED 10amp fuse keeps blowing (without key)

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  1. #1
    Registered User aufevermike's Avatar
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    DAMNED 10amp fuse keeps blowing (without key)

    I can not for the life of me figure this out. The 10 amp fuse keeps blowing even without the key. I know there must be a short somewhere but where just do I need to look? I have disconnected my alarm, that wasn't it. I checked for a loose ground terminal at the battery that wasn't it. So what sort of things run off of this. All I can tell is the whirling sound at the instrument panel which I'm not sure what it is and the clock. I even tried a 25 amp and it too blew(I know, not a good idea but I wanted to see if anything bigger would hold) in about 5 seconds. The bike starts just fine but all I can tell is that the clock doesn't work. I checked all the loom areas that I could see. The bike is an 06 with only 7K miles on it?. HELP?. Please??
    Member #193478
    2005 K1200LT
    2006 Dakar
    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...ps91f390c2.jpg

  2. #2
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Consider a lamp instead of a fuse. That will give you more time to troubleshoot.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Registered User aufevermike's Avatar
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    one mean a tester lamp? It is an 06 Dakar. There are 8 fuses. a 15 for engine electronics, a 10(where the problem is) for the diagnosis plug instrument panel on-board socket and OE plug(whatever that is), (4) 7.5 one for the horn & headlight flasher, one low beam, one for high beam and one for brake light turn signals instrument panel and OE plug(again?????), (2) 4a, one for parking light and one for heated grips.
    So it is actually number 2 that keeps blowing.
    Member #193478
    2005 K1200LT
    2006 Dakar
    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...ps91f390c2.jpg

  4. #4
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aufevermike View Post
    one mean a tester lamp?
    Yes, I mean some kind of simple 12volt test lamp...you might have to revert to a higher wattage bulb like an old headlight. I don't know the bike's electrics, but you would need a circuit diagram as well. Get the bulb to carry the current draw which would then allow you to start plugging/unplugging things or moving wire bundles around until the bulb goes out/on when you do something on the bike. That will help isolate the problem area.

    You could also use a multimeter set to amps.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  5. #5
    Small road corner junkie pffog's Avatar
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    What mr 2..... said. Light will be bright when there is a short, and go dim, when not. No risk of frying wires that way. An old headlight works the best, easy to see.
    2010 F800GS Full Ohlins package, '04 R1100S Replika
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