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Thread: 2000 R1100RT final drive issues

  1. #1
    On the Road
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    May 2008
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    2000 R1100RT final drive issues

    I recently purchased a 2000 R1100 RT with 35000 miles on it. I recall reading either on a BMW forum or the BMWON that some bikes late 1990's and/or early 2000's had problems with the final drive, specifically with the ring gear working loose and also maybe bearing failure. Am I correct in this assumption, and if so, where can I find more info. I have all my old issues of BMWON but it seems like a daunting task to go through them searching for this information. If anyone can steer me in the right direction I would really appreciate it.
    Also, if anyone is aware of any other problems with this model I might look out for I would appreciate the input. Thanks in advance for any help.

  2. #2
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    The 1100RT final drives are very reliable. To check yours put the bike on the center stand such that the back wheel is off the ground. You might need to remove the top box to do this as the balance front to back on the stand is very even.
    Grab the back wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock position and try to force it left to right, right to left. There should be no play.
    Do the same thing at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions (top to bottom) and again do the push pull thing. There should be no discernable play.

    The other thing you should do is ride the bike for twenty minutes such that the final drive oil is nice and warm. Remove the fill plug first and then the bottom drain plug and drain the oil into a clear container. Look for any metal in the bottom of the container. Also look at the magnetic tip of the drain plug. Some grey fuzzy looking material is normal but not a lot of it. There is always a bit on the tip and the recessed area next to the magnet.

    If you don't find anything wrong replace the bottom crush washer, refill it and fuggedaboudit.
    Ride for another 6,000 miles and do it again (along with your other maintenance items of course)

    Fill quantity:
    Initial filling............................0.25 l (0.44 Imp. pints)
    During oil changes .............0.23 l (0.405 Imp. pints)
    Oil grade:
    Brand-name hypoid gear oil, SAE 90, API class GL 5

    I find it easier to find name brand regular SAE 80/90 hypoid gear oil. The GL 5 rating is a must. Some use synthetic 75-90 gear oil. Do not use 75-140 synthetic.

    Ride for another 6,000 miles and do it again.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  3. #3
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    I always combine the fluid change with a rear tire replacement. So easy to drain it then. I check for slack every time I put it on the centerstand and check oil. Takes like 5 seconds.

    Rod

  4. #4
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
    I always combine the fluid change with a rear tire replacement. So easy to drain it then. I check for slack every time I put it on the centerstand and check oil. Takes like 5 seconds.

    Rod
    +1 on that. With the wheel off checking play is even easier by just grabbing the rotor and try to wiggle to and fro.. You can really feel a loose bearing then.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

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