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Thread: 92 k75 about to go (maybe) buy one. What should I look for.

  1. #1
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    92 k75 about to go (maybe) buy one. What should I look for.

    Not a stranger to wrenching. Mostly worried about crazy expensive things to go wrong.
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  2. #2
    RS MotoBrick
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    greetings...

    1st thing i would do is check the vin on the title to the vin on the frame... and make sure its not a salvage or rebuilt title...

    j o

  3. #3
    3 Red Bricks
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    Ask if the bike has been sitting or if it's been driven regularly. (driven is better)

    Ask to look inside the fuel tank. Open filler cap, remove 4 phillips screws that hold flange to tank, lift flange and cap assembly off insuring not to getr fuel drops on paint. What you're looking for is evidence of the rubber fuel pump damper being dissolved by bad gas. Is the inside of the tank shiny aluminum or does it have a tan or brown tint to it (sign of possible damper deterioration). The pump is on the left side. You might be able to reach in and run your finger against the little bit of the rubber that is between the white plastic pump holder and the aluminum shelf that holds the pump assembly. It should be firm, not gooey and not leave a stain on your finger.

    Does the bike downshift easily in the higher gears (5-4,4-3) without noticable pressure on the lever and without blipping the throttle. If not, could be sign of dry or worn clutch splines.

    Ask when the last valve adjustment was done and when the rear splines were last lubed. Ask if he has the receipt for the spline lube. If he says that he did it himself, ask him to show you the rear splines (remove final drive) before you finalize the deal. Worn out rear splines from lack of lube can cost between $400, for used replacement, and $1000 for remachined not counting the labor to change the parts.

    If it has ABS, make sure it works properly. No warning lights on the dash after riding off and tapping front and rear brake to clear the bulb monitor. On a straight clear road or parking lot, stomp on the rear brake at about 20 mph. If the rear brake shudders (pulses) without just locking up solid, then the ABS should be working.

    Check that the gear indicator works correctly.

    Do the odometer and speedometer appear to work correctly.

    If you buy it, or if you just want something to use to talk him down in price $25-50, check the crankcase vent hose for cracks. The hose is a black rubber hose about 5/8" in diameter molded in a sort of Z shape. It is located on the left side of the engine just to the rear of the throttlebodies and just to the front of the black plastic coil cover. It's in past the throttlebodies but is visible if you get down on your knees. These are notorious for cracking every couple of years right next to each of the two hose clamps. When they crack, they leak oil mist, but worse, they cause the engine to run lean from unmetered air being sucked in (not good). The hose costs $16 from the dealer and is easy to change, but if it is cracked, it shows he wasn't as on top of maintenance as he had been telling you. Also check the vacuum caps on the base of the forward two throttlebodies for cracks for the same lean mixtur reason.



    If the rear splines are good (nice flat topped teeth) and it appears to run well and all the controls and lights work, most everything else is pretty easy to fix.



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  4. #4
    Registered User Beemer01's Avatar
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    Can't add anything to Lee's comments -

    But the K series is a great design and easy to wrench on. Oh, and the K75 is the smoothest bike I've ever ridden 400 miles in a thunderstorm on!

  5. #5
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    I pulled the trigger.

    I am a sucker for a bike in need I guess. Could have spent $800 on something else but I guess I will be oilhead/brickhead since I already have R1150R.
    I must say I like the bike. Ride home (the most exciting part as you all know) was very nice. Bike is taller than R and more "wobbly" but very nice. It is narrower, I feel I can play with traffic more with it. Engine is smooth and 5th gear is awesome, you can go from 20-90 without shifting, very smooth torque curve. It was ridden hard but still runs well. I am assuming drivetrain is OK. Gotta start going through it slowly, tank is first. I took the fairing off already and I need some plastic pieces. Windshield is cloudy and was wondering if there is replacement for it. Thank you for your input.
    What is up with the side cases? Lock here lock there lock everywhere and to take off is an exercise in 3D geometry. What am I missing?
    Also when you put the bike on a side stand it leans a little more than I would like. Is there a pad that goes on the foot. There are two holes.
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  6. #6
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Ask if the bike has been sitting or if it's been driven regularly. (driven is better)

    Ask to look inside the fuel tank. Open filler cap, remove 4 phillips screws that hold flange to tank, lift flange and cap assembly off insuring not to getr fuel drops on paint. What you're looking for is evidence of the rubber fuel pump damper being dissolved by bad gas. Is the inside of the tank shiny aluminum or does it have a tan or brown tint to it (sign of possible damper deterioration). The pump is on the left side. You might be able to reach in and run your finger against the little bit of the rubber that is between the white plastic pump holder and the aluminum shelf that holds the pump assembly. It should be firm, not gooey and not leave a stain on your finger.

    Does the bike downshift easily in the higher gears (5-4,4-3) without noticable pressure on the lever and without blipping the throttle. If not, could be sign of dry or worn clutch splines.

    Ask when the last valve adjustment was done and when the rear splines were last lubed. Ask if he has the receipt for the spline lube. If he says that he did it himself, ask him to show you the rear splines (remove final drive) before you finalize the deal. Worn out rear splines from lack of lube can cost between $400, for used replacement, and $1000 for remachined not counting the labor to change the parts.

    If it has ABS, make sure it works properly. No warning lights on the dash after riding off and tapping front and rear brake to clear the bulb monitor. On a straight clear road or parking lot, stomp on the rear brake at about 20 mph. If the rear brake shudders (pulses) without just locking up solid, then the ABS should be working.

    Check that the gear indicator works correctly.

    Do the odometer and speedometer appear to work correctly.

    If you buy it, or if you just want something to use to talk him down in price $25-50, check the crankcase vent hose for cracks. The hose is a black rubber hose about 5/8" in diameter molded in a sort of Z shape. It is located on the left side of the engine just to the rear of the throttlebodies and just to the front of the black plastic coil cover. It's in past the throttlebodies but is visible if you get down on your knees. These are notorious for cracking every couple of years right next to each of the two hose clamps. When they crack, they leak oil mist, but worse, they cause the engine to run lean from unmetered air being sucked in (not good). The hose costs $16 from the dealer and is easy to change, but if it is cracked, it shows he wasn't as on top of maintenance as he had been telling you. Also check the vacuum caps on the base of the forward two throttlebodies for cracks for the same lean mixtur reason.



    If the rear splines are good (nice flat topped teeth) and it appears to run well and all the controls and lights work, most everything else is pretty easy to fix.




    Thank you for your advice.
    Here is the situation so far.

    Rear drive splines like new, lubricated and changed oil in the final drive.
    fuel tank has a pinhole leak at the front left edge right above where the grommet hole is. Very strange since it is aluminum tank. It is really tiny and I might just put some marine putty on it. It does not drip, it evaporates before it can make a drop, that is hot tiny it is .Inside of the tank looks good but it has some coating on it. I don't think it came with anything from the factory.
    The hose you mentioned is ripped. Fuel pressure regulator is leaking fuel out of the vacuum hose connected to number 3 cylinder so I guess I need one (regulator that is) . Any interchange with car parts? Securing clips for the fuel tank are missing. Fuel lines are crap but I will go in to replace the fuel pressure regulator so they will all go. Rear brake master cylinder is leaking. Any repair kits out there?
    ABS light stays on, the general warning turns off after the brake light check. Any suggestions. It does not flash, just stays on.
    Should the temperature light and fuel light come on for the light check at startup?
    Odometer does not work, probably the same plastic gear from VW and BMW and mostly all European cars of that vintage that gets stripped.
    But all in all not bad. Engine sounds very nice. I did a quick throttle body sync and the idle holds steady at 1000 rpms.
    Open to your input and suggestions regarding cheap parts and regular maintenance issues.
    Thank you again
    Esmir
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  7. #7
    Mars needs women! 35634's Avatar
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    water settles at the lowest part of the tank and corrodes the aluminum, gas tank patch or jb weld will fix it. http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml has a wealth of info and interchangeable parts. Someone is making the odo gears but they are still pretty pricey, there was a thread on it somewhere here, good luck finding it! http://www.beemerboneyard.com/ is a good place for some parts, I've dealt with them for years and never been disappointed. Sure others will chime in. Enjoy the ride!
    1987 K75S
    Original litter
    Original owner
    2012 Ural Gear Up

  8. #8
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    Ok so the bike is disassembled and waiting for parts.
    Transmission is out and fairings are off. Front fairing had a chunk blown out of it when the bike was laid down. I glued it with G-Flex epoxy. That is some good stuff. It looks good. I might sand it down but I just want to ride for now.
    All splines are OK (good news, and so is the clutch) I am getting new dampeners for the alternator and fuel pressure regulator and all of the hoses.
    Changed engine oil. There is a leak coming from the crankshaft and it looks like it is a little seal inside the flywheel. Rear main seal looks good. I deleted ABS since it didn't work and it cleans up the bike a lot. I am getting new brake lines from non ABS bike installed.

    Will post some pictures when I get time.

    I have a quick question. Bike came with Russel Day Long seat which is in pretty rough shape. I also got another seat which looks like it should fit but the pan is too deep, it sits on the ME holder. When I removed the holder and put the seat it is fine (sitting on the rails). Are there two different seats for the K bikes or two different ME holders (one without the storage)?
    Thank you and I will provide some pictures.
    Last edited by 98lee; 04-02-2014 at 02:44 PM.
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  9. #9
    Mars needs women! 35634's Avatar
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    there was a k75 low seat that did not have the battery side covers, underseat storage compartment or hinged seat that the regular seat had. The low seat had a gas tank surround on the back of the tank. They are interchangeable but you need all the miscellaneous parts for each one. They come up on ebay, flea market and IBMWRA pretty regularly.
    1987 K75S
    Original litter
    Original owner
    2012 Ural Gear Up

  10. #10
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    Thank you for the info. I got it now. I guess I didn't think about it since I figured that they will control the height with hardware and not with the seat.
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  11. #11
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    Hello again.
    I played with the brick a little today. Since I removed the ABS can I remove the ABS control unit and the wiring harness or is it needed for the speedometer? Also somebody here has a set of gears for he odometer for sale from K100. Is there any difference between K100 and K75 as far as the instrument clusters go (odometer gears specifically)
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  12. #12
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    Quick update

    Here it is, front fairing is half on, still waiting for parts.
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  13. #13
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cele0001 View Post
    Hello again.
    I played with the brick a little today. Since I removed the ABS can I remove the ABS control unit and the wiring harness or is it needed for the speedometer? Also somebody here has a set of gears for he odometer for sale from K100. Is there any difference between K100 and K75 as far as the instrument clusters go (odometer gears specifically)
    You can certainly remove the ABS control unit.. it has nothing to do with the speedo. The wiring harness might be a tad more difficult since it's part of the main harness of the bike - not a separate harness. There are some short sections that might be removed, but I doubt if the gain is worth the effort.

    And K100 and K75 use the same gears in the odometer. The parts are directly interchangeable.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  14. #14
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    What drives the speedo?
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  15. #15
    3 Red Bricks
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    There is a sensor on the final drive. If your speedo is not working, that is also why the odometer is not working. If your self canceling turn indicators don't cancel as well, the problem is the sensor.



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

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