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Thread: 1992 K75S -- wont start after police tow. no green neutral TT nor gear indicator

  1. #16
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    Thanks, Lee, yes, the clutch switch connector is a pain to get to. I just found it.

    The more I think about this, the more I think the advice to check the battery condition is the most important first step. A low battery will still light everything up, but won't turn over.

    The ride home is somewhat telling. What are the chances the clutch switch worked when you left the yard, but not when you got home? Pretty low. But a battery subjected to a few weeks in the cold weather you've been having out there ... easy to believe that might have just enough juice to start, but not enough to restart if not charged for a while. And if the battery's a few years old by now, that might be enough to tip it over the edge to being unrecoverable.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

  2. #17
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    just went down to check. the headlight stays on when press starter button.... does this mean something definitive?

  3. #18
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    Try it with the clutch in. Sorry, forgot to include that. Also, put the bike in neutral.

    If light still stays on, then it is not "seeing" the clutch switch actuating. Or the voltage is below the threshold of the load shed relay. But I would think the lights should be dim and the horn wouldn't work.



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

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    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
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  4. #19
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    If you're going to go down and check some more, check the kill switch as well. Ignition on, toggle the kill switch on and off. As I recall, either cluster background illumination or some indicator lights should go on and off. If they don't, the kill switch could be bad.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

  5. #20
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    i had the clutch in when i tried it, since the neutral TT isn't working..... (even tho i think it is in neutral) does this means the clutch switch is indeed the culprit? or at least one of the culprits.

    will look again in the morning. its been cold and dark every minute i've had to troubleshoot, tomorrow i will have time in the morning to work on it.

    terrifically grateful for the help and advice from all.

  6. #21
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Steering head lock is separate from ignition switch on K75.


    I guess I wasn't clear. I know from my Bricklet the steering lock is separate from the ignition switch, but a guy on the clock per tow may not know and doesn't care.

    I've re-pode'd lots of stuff in my career. I try the flathead first and let the next guy figure out the mess I made. I actually try to break stuff so I can get to the ignition switch. A hammer works too.

    If it was me, I'd be looking at any damage to the ignition lock, try the key a bunch of times and then spend some quality time making sure the ignition switch was not a problem.

    Three months sitting in the cold..................I've seen many a good battery take a vacation over night and they aren't coming back.
    1997 R1100RT (Restored Basket Case) , 1981 KZ 440 LTD (Restored Basket Case)
    1986 K75S(the beutch), 1993 K1100RS (blown engine), 1997 Chev Short Box (4x4 with an LT1)
    "You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him."

  7. #22
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    just an update. still no luck on getting her started. battery is on charger now. i checked the steering lock and the ignition switches, both seem good/clean/smooth (ie. no screwdriver jammed in). I tried to get my head up under the fairing to look for disconnected wires but didn't see anything obvious.

    on the bright side - i was slightly afraid to take out the toolbox/komputer holder because it was full of a disconnected alarm system and a big wad of wires, i didn't want to un-attach the wrong wire, but when i lifted the box out and saw that none of the wires were connected to anything, was a great relief, i pried the alarm box out (it was epoxy'd on there or something), and scrubbed out a decade of grease and grime from the box. the PO wasn't as meticulous as i am about dangling wires and stuff not working.

    also, since i kinda doubt that the dead battery is the culprit (due to no green neutral light and no gear indicator) i have been scrounging around looking for an honest moto tow guy and an alternative to the bmw dealer (can i say that?) here in manhattan, think i might have found both. that which doesn't kill you etc.

    wish i was able to partake of the first weekend of spring riding but i'm probably on the sidelines for this weekend.

  8. #23
    Outlander Omega Man's Avatar
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    Easy to find neutral, just try moving the bike and gently moving the shift lever.
    OM
    "Well they say.. time loves a hero but only time will tell.. If he's real, he's a legend from heaven If he ain't he was sent here from hell" Lowell George
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  9. #24
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    yeah i can tell the transmission is working, I can shift into neutral spin the back wheel, shift into gear feel in gear, pull in clutch easy spin again etc.

    i'm just saying the no neutral tell tale and no gear indicator seems to point to a bad switch/electrical connection vs. just a low/dead battery. hoping i'm wrong tho.

  10. #25
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    The absent neutral light and the blank gear indicator have the same cause (most probably either the connector to the cluster, or the TGPI) but that cause doesn't rule out the battery.

    If you follow power through the starting circuits on the K75 wiring diagram, it flows like this:

    Battery -> Ignition switch -> Kill switch -> Fuse 1 -> Clutch switch & instrument cluster (i.e. neutral light) -> Start button -> Starter relay

    So a no-crank condition is due to a fault somewhere on that path, excluding weird things that aren't likely happening here.

    Edit: In other words, the absent neutral light and gear indicator do indicate a problem, but that problem is not sufficient to prevent you from starting. Something else along the pathway above has to be broken.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

  11. #26
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    I note that this could all be as simple as Fuse 1 being blown or loose. The bike will run like that (without brake lights), but won't start. So if the fuse blew or came loose during the ride home, that would cause the observed failure.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

  12. #27
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    Just had a chance to check the schematic.

    Your problem is a blown fuse. The top one. 7.5 amp. Standard automotive fuse available anywhere (even 7-11).

    The fuses are on the left side under the battery cover under a 1"x 3" clear (probably yellowed by now) plastic cover. Cover comes off by pinching the two sides together and pull.

    Pulled that fuse on my bike and get the same symptoms you have. Hopefully whatever popped it has cleared.


    Hopefully a cheap easy fix!

    PS:
    I wrote this almost an hour ago but then had to help the wife repot a plant and take out the garbage. By the time I hit send, James had beat me to it. Looks like you might be riding on the first day of spring after all!




    Last edited by 98lee; 03-20-2014 at 12:01 AM. Reason: Noticed James's post
    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  13. #28
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    you guys are amazing. looks like it was indeed the fuse.

    haven't started it yet but after swapping out positions on two of the fuses, the green neutral light and the gear indicator are both back, and i briefly pressed starter it turns over. raining now but hopefully will get a break in a bit and i will start it up.

    thank you for your help!!

  14. #29
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  15. #30
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    Sorry it took so long, but I didn't get near my schematics until this afternoon.

    You can thank us by having a nice ride this weekend!


    Makes that MOA membership look pretty worthwhile, eh?



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

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