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Thread: 2007 R1200R Clicking Sound on Startup

  1. #1
    Registered User BoxerHund's Avatar
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    2007 R1200R Clicking Sound on Startup

    So yesterday I adjusted my valves with the engine dead cold, was triple sure about respective cylinders being at TDC, checked the rocker arm endplay, and then did a throttle body sync after a short ride to get her up to operating temp. Went for a longer ride today and after stopping for lunch, upon startup I heard a fairly loud clicking / cracking noise mostly from the right side of the bike. There were no issues in starting the bike and upon idle and thereafter, no clicking or cracking. Stopped after about 15 more minutes and started her again with the same sound, which again went away after starting. It almost sounded "electrical" like a spark gap - or like a piezoelectric start on a Weber grill. She runs smoothly and I checked the plugs yesterday (appearance and gap), everything seems normal (although I might have got some anti-seize on the electrodes but I tried to wipe all of that off). I have been starting her once a week as my seat was awat at Sargent for a month. No clicking sound until today. Anybody have this problem?

    Thanks,
    BH

  2. #2
    Still plays with trains. tinytrains's Avatar
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    I cannot tell you what is clicking, but I sure would pull the valve covers of and have a look. I have heard of people having tappet lock nuts come off because they did not get tightened correctly, even thought they were sure they did. Arching plug wires can kill a coil.

    If something is wrong, the longer you run it, the more damage can be done.

    Good luck and keep us posted!
    1988 K75 Low Seat
    2009 R1200R Roadster

  3. #3
    Registered User BoxerHund's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinytrains View Post
    I cannot tell you what is clicking, but I sure would pull the valve covers of and have a look. I have heard of people having tappet lock nuts come off because they did not get tightened correctly, even thought they were sure they did. Arching plug wires can kill a coil.

    If something is wrong, the longer you run it, the more damage can be done.

    Good luck and keep us posted!
    Yep, that is my plan for tomorrow. I did torque each clearance adjuster locknut to 8 Nm with a brand-new CDI torque wrench and a 10 mm crow's foot at 90 degrees, so they should have been torqued properly - but who knows. Anyway, I'll have a look tomorrow and post what I find.

    BH

  4. #4
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    One other thing to check.. the rocker arm end-play adjustment.

    It can be misleading if you only do it based on feeler gauges stuck between the rocker arm and the mounting blocks. The ends of the rockers aren't necessarily square to the blocks - so you can measure clearance at one point and have none at another point, which will cause binding. The best test for this is to pull up/down on the rockers and make certain you can see movement, or hear it. I generally try for a very soft "tick" sort of sound when I move them up and down. A loud clack is too much clearance, no sound is too little. You can also make this measurement with a dial-indicator on a magnetic base, but it's a bit of a PITA to get it all aligned correctly.

    Given your symptom of the noise just on startup, this would be my WAG as to the cause.

    Also - the end-play stays quite constant. I did mine fairly early on - and it took 60,000 miles before I felt one of them was worth adjusting again.

    BTW - starting a bike once a week and then not actually riding it (cabin-fever sort of thing) is not a good thing for the engine. It results in a rich mixture sitting in the cylinders which can wash down past the rings and dilute the oil. It also can lead to cold damp air being in the crankcase, where the moisture in the air settles out as the engine cools, and combining with sulphur trapped in the oil, which results in sulphuric acid. Not something you want accumulating in your engine.

    My general rule is - if I can't ride it - I don't start it. I might sit on it and make "rummm.. rummm" noises, but I don't power it on.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  5. #5
    Registered User ratze's Avatar
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    Have you done the cam chain tention'er upgrade, thats the left side though.
    The pursuit of reality at all cost.

  6. #6
    Cam Killer marchyman's Avatar
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    I believe all hexheads came with the updated tensioner. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

  7. #7
    Registered User BoxerHund's Avatar
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    Hmm have not done the cam chain tensioner upgrade (but I should apparently look into this!) In any case, I removed the valve covers, re-checked the clearances at respective TDCs, examined the plugs and coils (well what I could see anyway).... everything looked as it did when I buttoned her up the other day. So I put everything back together and this time made sure I had mated the coil/connectors to the plugs. In any case - no clicking, no cracking, no ticking whatsoever! Happy but dumbfounded (a familiar state), I continued with the afternoon's project, changing the alternator belt. After a few hours of fun with that I started her up again, no clicking, etc etc. So I am not sure what to make of it.

    Good point about starting and not riding, I was only doing that while my seat was away, but now I will be riding again for sure! (Commuting anyway, we'll see about longer trips with the weather) Also I did check the endplay and move the rocker arms up and down. Nothing is blatantly obvious in terms of being wrong.

    Onward then,
    BH

  8. #8
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marchyman View Post
    I believe all hexheads came with the updated tensioner. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
    That is correct - but the hexheads DO tend to have a bit of clatter on the right side on startup. I ended up replacing my right side tensioner - which may a tiny bit of difference. What really seems to have cured it was going to Castrol TWS 10W-60 oil (special oil used on BMW M-car engines, and on the HP2 boxer.) I think it resists draining down a bit more than the 15W-50 that I had been using (and may flow easier on a cold startup.)
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  9. #9
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deilenberger View Post
    That is correct - but the hexheads DO tend to have a bit of clatter on the right side on startup. I ended up replacing my right side tensioner - which may a tiny bit of difference. What really seems to have cured it was going to Castrol TWS 10W-60 oil (special oil used on BMW M-car engines, and on the HP2 boxer.) I think it resists draining down a bit more than the 15W-50 that I had been using (and may flow easier on a cold startup.)
    Out of curiosity Don, how many children, arms, legs, or left nuts does BMW/Castrol want for this golden elixir?
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  10. #10
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    Bimmer World has it...

    BMW Castrol TWS 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil
    BMW recommended oil for BMW ///M engines from March 2000 forward
    Price: $14.99
    '14 R1200RT
    MOA #46783

  11. #11
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Out of curiosity Don, how many children, arms, legs, or left nuts does BMW/Castrol want for this golden elixir?
    I buy it at my friendly local BMW car dealer - with a BMW Car Club of America discount, it's a bit under $11/liter - less then the stuff from the BMW bike dealer and IMHO - far superior. It's a full synthetic, made in Germany, and the "new oil" feel/sound from the engine now seems to last for a full change cycle (I do mine at 6,000 mile intervals.)

    I've had Blackstone test it a number of times from my M-Coupe engine, and it holds viscosity better than any other oil I've had them test (including the former BMW/Golden-Spectro 15W-50 used in the R12R.) They did a virgin sample for me for free so I had a baseline to go on. That may be due to the operating conditions of the two engines - but I'll know shortly. I'm going to have Blackstone check it from the R12R - I'm about due for a change once it warms up and the ice goes away for a few days.

    The other good part about this oil - it has a ZDDP package made for a flat-tappet engine design - lots of good extreme pressure additive in it. The sort of package that's ideal for an air/oil-cooled engine.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

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