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Thread: New member of BMW MOA resurrecting 85 K100RS

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  1. #1
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    New member of BMW MOA resurrecting 85 K100RS

    New guy from Wisconsin
    Hi to all on this forum. I just joined the BMW MOA after I purchased a 85 BMW K100RS and RT. I got the RS completely torn apart with 160,000 miles and while contemplating putting it back together I had the opportunity to purchase an insurance totaled 85 K100RT with 14,000 miles on it. Totaling this bike happened because it was involved in a low side and broke the fairing and one side cover. The rest of the bike was fine. So I decided since the RT has a salvage title and the RS has a clean title I would tear the RT apart and make sure everything was mechanically safe and correct and get the drive spines lubed. I put the clean titled RS frame on the low mileage RT engine. So far I have replaced fork seals and installed progressive springs, steering head bearings, all the radiator hoses, clutch and throttle cable, rear main seal, clutch basket o-ring, clutch actuator cup. I have also wire brushed and painted the rear diff, swing arm and trany. I have the clutch re-sealed and installed and have installed the trany and mounted the RS frame. Since it is so cold in WI right now I am working on cleaning up the contacts inside the gauge cluster. Here are a few pictures of what I have done on the bike.
    20131210_213220.jpg
    Since I have been working on the bike for the last month I will just put the high lights in the thread and pick up where I am currently.

    Thanks to all and I look forward to meeting some of you this summer at the ralley.

  2. #2
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    So I tore the bike down and I found that the rear diff was in good condition. The clutch actuator cup was ruptured and had been spilling oil out of the trany and it made a mess. I was planning on lubing the splines anyway so I am going to replace and check everything as I go. The trany, swing arm and rear diff were quite stained and corroded to I spent a few hours brushing everything.
    Before
    20131231_163641.jpg
    After
    20140109_222527.jpg
    once I got the trany off I found some oil in the bottom of the clutch housing so I pulled it and replaced the rear main seal and o-ring. Was a pretty big pain but it's done now and I think I got everything back as it should be. I was very careful to mark everything as it came apart
    20131231_163710.jpg
    With the help of my girlfriend we were able to get the trany back on with out braking anything. I spent the summer working on a snowmobile and believe it or not but the head studs worked perfectly as alignment tools. I replaced the clutch cable and while I was waiting for parts from MAX I replaced the head bearings and races. So I was able to get it installed and I have the left side handle bar controls mounted and complete. I just got the throttle cable so next week I will get that installed.

  3. #3
    Curmudgeon At Large Bobmws's Avatar
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    Welcome. It appears you have a good grasp on your 85K. You may want to check out the IBMWR tech site for some good early K model tips.
    Bob Weis
    '04 K12RS - Hannigan Hack
    www.earplugco.com

  4. #4
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    Thanks, glad to be here. I have had time while waiting for my new parts so I started cleaning up the engine and finding all the little things that have not been addressed for the last 29 years. The engine had a lot of corrosion on it so I have been wire brushing it. As I remove covers to check the valves and replace seals on the valve cover and crank cover they will be getting painted to match the rear end. The corrosion came off like powder and I really don't want to spend time polishing it regularly so painting is definitely the way to go.
    20140102_141930.jpg
    20140109_222532.jpg
    When I got the swing arm off I found that the clutch lever cup had ruptured and the bike had been leaking oil out of the trany. It was a huge mess and took me a few hours to get it all cleaned up. I really like the fact you can remove the trany and get access to everything.
    20131222_191546.jpg
    once I got the trany out of the frame I drained the oil and a bunch came out so I know it was not run dry. I will be putting fresh fluids in everything on the bike.

  5. #5
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    20140102_143706.jpg
    I will be using the RS fairings I have from another 85 K100 I have so I am not sure what I will be doing with the salvage titled frame and spare engine I have. Probably build that bike once this one is done and leave it naked. The body work for these bikes is quite expensive and I am sure it will also need a bunch of parts. At least I have 2 bikes worth of parts to pick from so I will be putting the best parts on the one I am building. I really like the Alaska blue, it is almost the same color as the Suzuki GS1000E I tour on. I will be painting the bike in the future, I just want it to be safe and rideable for now. 20131211_090124.jpg
    20131211_090131.jpg
    I have noticed looking through all the parts that the handle bar controls all look sun bleached and the lettering is worn off. I will have to look into getting that refreshed.

  6. #6
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    I have continued to cleaning the engine. I ran the VIN in a model finder program I got from a BMW site and it says that my bike was made in 84 so I think I may have the euro cams it seems everyone wants. My bike does have the vent at the front of the engine though but it is capped off so I am not sure about this. To me it really does not matter but would be nice to know.
    20140122_093050.jpg
    20140122_093045.jpg
    After a few hours of cleaning I am pretty happy with the results. More to be done but I am making pregress
    20140122_213616.jpg

  7. #7
    Instigator cele0001's Avatar
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    It needs the battery light from the cluster to charge. It is a part of the charging circuit. If you plug the cluster it will charge
    I want to be unique, just like everybody else.

  8. #8
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    Well you guys were correct. All I had to do was plug in the gauge cluster and since I used LED bulbs I have to rev it up to around 2500 and the charge light goes out. I am a little concerned at how it charges though, at idle it is only putting out 12.9 volts and 13.9 when the RPM's are above 2000. Do I need to put a new regulator in it or new brushes? Other than that I did find that the ignition is a little flaky. I have to turn the key just right so the lights are on brightly or the bike does not want to start. Once its in the right spot it fires right up with no problems. So I will be getting a new ignition in the near future.

    I got it all put together and took it out for it's maiden ride. I have to tell you it is very very nice ride. With the progressive springs in the front and progressive shock on the rear it rides like my friends new Harley. It holds the road very nicely and corners very well. I have also installed a fork brace so that might help it handle better than stock. I did notice that it is a little buzzy but I really think that that could be addressed if I set all those compensation screws the same and adjust the butterfly valves. When I synced the throttle bodies I did notice that they are not all even at around 5000 rpm so I am assuming that that is the cause of some of the buzz. But I will be putting some miles on the bike before I mess with it any further. I am very pleased with how the bike turned out and I do appreciate all the help I have received from members on this forum. Next will be to see how far off the spedo is and deal with a flaky LED in the cluster. So here are some pictures of the first ride. I did decide that I will definitely be looking for a different seat. I really do not like the way this one holds me put and I can't move around at all. I will also be looking for some highway pegs.

    20140524_131227.jpg
    20140524_131218.jpg

  9. #9
    3 Red Bricks
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    Unless you are planning on riding it a 1000rpm, the alternator is working fine.

    Do NOT buy a new ignition switch. Disassemble and CLEAN it. http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/Igni...tch/index.html


    All K100s are a little (or a lot) buzzy. Do NOT touch the linkage between the throttlebodies, ONLY adjust the large brass bypass screws at the base of each throttle and the one idle screw that has a hex head. Don't forget to recheck the throttle position switch after any adjustments.

    Looks GREAT!!!!



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  10. #10
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    Thanks and thanks for the tutorial. I will have to get right on that when I get home, I just wished I had done this before I put the tank on. Would have been much easier to take care of then. Hopefully that will be the last thing I need to take apart this year. Now I just want to ride and enjoy this bike.

  11. #11
    Registered User 58058D's Avatar
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    As 98Lee says, '85's are all a little, or more likely a LOT, buzzy. Sort of the nature of the '85. Mine seemed to be one of the smoother ones and still it was quite buzzy compared to my '03 1100RS and the '00 1200RS. But I certainly rode bikes that were way more buzzy. Bar end weights help, for the passenger pegs, many of us installed after market aluminum brackets that put the passenger feet higher and farther forward. Stock position does not allow the passenger to use their legs for leverage on stops and they are REALLY buzzy. To ease the buzz for my wife, we wrapped those pegs with pipe insulation and duct tape (it actually was difficult for others to see unless stopped and we were off the bike....).

    Your project bike looks great! All that work has really paid off. Sweet!
    Jim Douglas '00 K1200RS >135,000 miles my primary bike again,
    Gone: '09 K1300S sold @ 22k mi, '93 K1100RS traded @ 78k mi, '85 K100RS sold @ 44k mi
    '06 Kaw 650R track bike sold
    http://www.seagullbb.com/

  12. #12
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    Now that I have had a chance to put around 600 miles on my K I have found that I really like it and I don't notice the buzziness much. My bike gets around 41 to 42MPG so I think thats pretty good. It's about the same as the girlfriends GS1000. I am still not able to figure out what's up with the side stand. It seems to be in the right place but hits the ground when I lean a bunch to the left.

    One thing I am going to change is the LED's I put in the turn signal slots. They are way to bright when I ride at night and today the right turnsignal paddle on the control broke. I picked up a replacement control but I am hoping that I can just replace the paddle. I really don't want to take my tank off again. Is this something I can do? Any thing I need to watch out for i.e. small springs or delicate wires?

    The right turn signal control had started getting intermittent for last 100 miles or so.

  13. #13
    Registered User bruced737's Avatar
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    Ok well I guess I will just have to keep searching Ebay for a better set of other controls. At least the turn signal paddles will look nice and new.

    I really don't feel any of the buzziness in the left foot peg. It's more in my butt and handle bars. Its not bad and I will just live with it the way it is. I have installed a volt meter and the bike is charging like it should, even with the LED in the charge position. I just have to rev it to about 2000 rpm's when I first start it.

    As for the side stand, I did install the retract mechanism and I adjusted it like the manual said to. I have never tried it though as none of my other bikes has one and I am not in the habit of retracting it that way. The side stand and center stand do interfere with each other. I have to put the side stand down then retract the center stand then the side stand. Perhaps the mount is bent in some way. At least I am getting some use out of the bike and fix this little stuff as I have time.

    I usually park the bike on the center stand every time I stop and every time I put it to bed in the garage. It does not smoke after the initial start up of the day, but I will certainly try leaning it to the right next time I go for a ride. Thanks for the tip. How long do I need to lean it?

    On another note, I did make it to the Rally a couple of days and there are some really nice K's out there. I didn't see a whole lot of RS's though. It seems most people purchased or made their K's into RT's. I really do need a set of highway bars though. Any one have a set they want to sell?

  14. #14
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruced737 View Post
    I usually park the bike on the center stand every time I stop and every time I put it to bed in the garage. It does not smoke after the initial start up of the day, but I will certainly try leaning it to the right next time I go for a ride. Thanks for the tip. How long do I need to lean it?
    20-30 seconds should do it.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

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