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Thread: alternator belt 2010 R1200RT

  1. #16
    Registered User dundee387's Avatar
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    I'm looking to do this job for the first time on my 06RT. Do all the plugs have to be removed to make the job easier?

    Thanks

  2. #17
    BruceRT
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    Quote Originally Posted by dundee387 View Post
    I'm looking to do this job for the first time on my 06RT. Do all the plugs have to be removed to make the job easier?
    Just one plug per cylinder so you can turn the crankshaft through the rear wheel while the transmission is in 6th gear.
    Bruce
    2005 R1200RT (It's new to me!)
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  3. #18
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdimon View Post
    Just one plug per cylinder so you can turn the crankshaft through the rear wheel while the transmission is in 6th gear.
    I found it MUCH easier to turn the engine over using the crankshaft nut in the center of the bottom pulley.. you're sorta right there, and it turns over easily with a plug/cylinder removed. No real worry about changing the torque setting on it.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
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    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  4. #19
    Registered User dundee387's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdimon View Post
    Just one plug per cylinder so you can turn the crankshaft through the rear wheel while the transmission is in 6th gear.
    The plugs on the bottom of the head, or the sides?

    Please forgive my lack on knowledge here....

  5. #20
    Cam Killer marchyman's Avatar
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    Doesn't make any difference. You just want to create an outlet for air on the compression stroke. I found it easier to remove the main plug.

  6. #21
    Registered User BoxerHund's Avatar
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    24K vs 6 years

    Quote Originally Posted by akbeemer View Post
    I've changed three at 24,000 miles (40K); two RTs and an R. All looked good, but I'll change the next one at 24K as well. Now I travel with the used ones as back-up. It's not much extra work once you have the fairing off to do other routine maintenance such as the throttle body synch.
    I have a 2007 R1200R with about 12K miles on the clock. So miles-wise the alternator belt should be fine but my Haynes manual specifies a belt service interval of 24K miles or 6 years, the latter of which has just past. I suppose I should change it just in case? Are there non-visible signs of deterioration in these things? That is, if I examine it and find no obvious cracking etc, could I still be in trouble?

    Thanks,
    BH

  7. #22
    Registered User mpmarty's Avatar
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    Marty - in the western Oregon mountains.'06RT, (gone '04RT, '86 Venture Royal, '81 Yamaha Virago920, '82Suzuki GS1100GK, '76 Suzuki GT750, Triumph 750 Bonneville, BSA Road Rocket 650, 61" Harley knucklehead)

  8. #23
    Survivor akbeemer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoxerHund View Post
    I have a 2007 R1200R with about 12K miles on the clock. So miles-wise the alternator belt should be fine but my Haynes manual specifies a belt service interval of 24K miles or 6 years, the latter of which has just past. I suppose I should change it just in case? Are there non-visible signs of deterioration in these things? That is, if I examine it and find no obvious cracking etc, could I still be in trouble?

    Thanks,
    BH
    They seem to last much longer than the maintenance schedule would imply but I'd change it , or at the least buy a new one and carry it with you.
    Kevin Huddy
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  9. #24
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akbeemer View Post
    They seem to last much longer than the maintenance schedule would imply but I'd change it , or at the least buy a new one and carry it with you.
    The point I made in my earlier post got lost in the translation it seems. When these belts fail - if they do - there is a reasonable risk that the failure will damage or destroy the hall sensor(s) or wiring tucked behind the pulley.

    So, while it is not a bad idea to carry a spare belt, the better approach is to change the belt so as to avoid the failure which may damage the HES and leave you disabled beside the road, lacking a $300 or so spare part.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  10. #25
    Survivor akbeemer's Avatar
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    I take your point that a belt failure could cause significant and disabling damage. Changing as prescribed by BMW is what I have done and recommend. I thought the R12s do not use a HES ; am I misinformed?
    Kevin Huddy
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  11. #26
    Cam Killer marchyman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    The point I made in my earlier post got lost in the translation it seems. When these belts fail - if they do - there is a reasonable risk that the failure will damage or destroy the hall sensor(s) or wiring tucked behind the pulley.
    On a 1200?

    Not sure about the camhead, but there wasn't much to damage on a hexhead.



    FWIW I changed mine at the '05 recommended intervals of 36000 miles. The one I took off always looked and felt about the same as the new belt that was going on the bike.

  12. #27
    God? What god? roborider's Avatar
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    Rob C. , Raleigh, NC
    '10 R12RT, R90/6
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  13. #28
    Registered User Woodbutcher's Avatar
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    I like this video better. The head of the large adjustable wrench lifts and guides the belt on. No fancy single purpose tools needed. Worked fine on my GSA

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzPTPN98x40
    Rusty
    Austin, TX
    Two Wheeled Texans
    2009 R1200GSA

  14. #29
    God? What god? roborider's Avatar
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    Yeah but that video uses no tool. I've replaced my belt twice, with no tool, and it NEVER went on that easy!
    Rob C. , Raleigh, NC
    '10 R12RT, R90/6
    2007 CBR600RR & 09 V-Star
    Suzuki DR 350

  15. #30
    Kool Aid Dispenser! jimvonbaden's Avatar
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    It takes seconds with a 12" Crescent wrench.


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