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Thread: S type fairing for an 83 R100?

  1. #16
    Registered User helmut_head's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMSimon View Post
    Can you elaborate on this comment, please? Considering the following math: Good price for an 83 R100 = approx. $5,000.- This will make $1,000 about 20% of the value of the bike.
    $5000 for a naked R100?
    Helmut always wears a Helmet.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by helmut_head View Post
    $5000 for a naked R100?
    Have you checked the prices lately? Also, I said GOOD PRICE, i.e: good or very good condition bike!

  3. #18
    jimmy armour
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    S fairing

    HI GUYS HAPPY NEW YEAR, try" flatracer" they do a complete kit,less S bars for 250 pounds sterling plus postage of coarse, they have changed their web site around a bit, but I was still able to get all the info, the kits come with or without headlight ears, hope this assists ,jimmy
    Last edited by jimwjarmour; 01-12-2014 at 08:16 PM.

  4. #19
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    A number of years ago I had a knockoff S style fairing on my '84 R100. It attached with U slotted brackets to the headlight mounts. That didn't seem sufficient, but it worked reasonably well. To be sure, I never cruised at length above 85.
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  5. #20
    Registered User mysteriousfish's Avatar
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    Cost was an issue for me, so I went with this bikini fairing from boxercafe for my naked 91 R100. I think it was like $75 in primer gray. I was painting other bits anyway, so the incremental cost was negligible. It bolted right on the headlight ear mounts. It certainly does not have the protection of a S type fairing, nor the classic looks, but does shield the instrument cluster and enhance the bike aesthetic. Have fun with your project! bikini.jpg
    michael
    __________
    1991 R100 classic; 1980 R100RT

  6. #21
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    S type fairing on 83 R100

    Vlado,

    I have a couple of questions about your set-up.

    Is the fairing anchored to the bike at the ears holding the headlight? On mine, the ignition key is on the left headlight ear. I don't know where it is on your /7. Is it the same? If it is the same , do you have any trouble reaching in and inserting the key with the fairing in place?

    Mine has a separate clock (left) and voltmeter (right) of the central tach/speedo unit. These are mounted on "ears" of their own, attached to the top of the forks. From your pics, it looks like there is sufficient room for these to fit in there also. I was also thinking that the fairing could also attach to those ears, maybe as additional bracing.

    My headlight lens is 7 and 5/8 inches, and with the chrome ring, diameter is about 8 and 1/4 or 3/8 inches. Is that about what you had?

    Any pictures you could post about the internal connections would be appreciated.

    From the outside, that looks very good on your ride. Also, I like the straight glossy black without pinstripes look of your bike. Nice!

    Bob

  7. #22
    Registered User helmut_head's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMSimon View Post
    Have you checked the prices lately? Also, I said GOOD PRICE, i.e: good or very good condition bike!
    I won't argue pricing, but I read the original posting and come to my previous conclusion.
    Helmut always wears a Helmet.

  8. #23
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    Hi Bob,
    yes, the fairing is anchored to the ears using U shaped attachments.

    I have the same size headlight, with the ignition on the left ear.
    There is plenty of room to reach for the key, no problem there.

    The attachments coming with the fairing are too small/short, therefore I had to make new ones.

    I used stock aluminum bars from hardware store- right side one inch wide as the original, but the left had to be one and a half inch wide to fit the ignition body, which is almost one inch wide- see the pic.

    It needed some tinkering when bending the bars for correct angle.

    I had to cut openings for blinker stems in the bottom corners- I took blinkers off for easier measurement and the correct placement, then reinstalled them.

    I also added plastic edging to the shield for better finish look- used black door protectors from Auto Zone.

    Since the fairing is attached with only two bolts it was vibrating at the top corners I added brackets from same bars.

    Make sure the headlight is positioned in correct angle before tightening the bolt/nut on the ears- especially the big nut on the ignition is crucial- luckily there is long enough threading on it to add large washers between headlight/ear/bracket/fairing...

    I hope it will help together with more pics.

    Good luck,
    Vlado
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
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    few more pics

    see the difference in the size and the angle between new and old attachments
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #25
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    S type Fairing for 83 R100

    Vlado. thanks for the additional pictures. I think I am going to give it a try.

  11. #26
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    Hi Bob,

    one more thing- the fairing is slightly wider at the bottom where you will cut the openings for blinkers- it is necessary to squeeze it a little to fit between blinkers.
    If the cuts are positioned correctly and are the same size as the dimples on black plastic blinker's shells where it goes over into metal stem it will help to hold the whole fairing tightly together, kind of substituting for additional attachments like some another fairings have.

    I also replaced black lentil head screws with new stainless ones and countersink them into the shield for flush fit. Just be careful when drilling into plexiglass.

    I am going to take some more detailed pics right now and post it for you in a few.

    Vlado

  12. #27
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    Here are pics...

    if you need more, just ask

    good luck ,

    Vlado
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