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Thread: New to me 99' RT gives out.....help

  1. #31
    It is what it is. Bud's Avatar
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    I'm getting encouraged by all the talk of $5K in the spring. I have a 99 for sale at $3K, side and top case, 42K miles, almost new PR3's and no takers.

    Guess letting it sit in the garage all winter and letting it age will pay big dividends in April!
    I used to post here, but now I don't.

  2. #32
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sibud View Post
    I'm getting encouraged by all the talk of $5K in the spring. I have a 99 for sale at $3K, side and top case, 42K miles, almost new PR3's and no takers.

    Guess letting it sit in the garage all winter and letting it age will pay big dividends in April!
    Some key words there. "all the talk of $5K in the spring".

    Sad to say 1100s are not commanding high prices any more unless they are very low K and very well accessorized. And even then, farkles don't really pay when you resell. Just check the listings. That is why when you find a beauty like the OP did they are worth saving IMO.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  3. #33
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    The more removed from the actual event of the bike quitting on me the more level headed I become. I really like this bike from the looks to how it performed, for all 250 miles, and I am thinking I want to keep it, but I don't want to repair it just to have it happen again. I found the above link that purports that they can sell me a clutch disc that will prevent this from ever happening again. What do you all know about this? Seems a bit pricey and does it actually bullet proof the splines?

    The other option is to just take it to the dealer and have them do it right and get the warranty for the work done and go on my merry way........only the Shadow knows what will happen....thanks for all the support.
    Chances are that if you repair it, you will not have the same problem again. But, it is important to fix it correctly. If fixed correctly, very few have the problem again. There are a lot of theories as to why these bikes have this problem. What we all seem to agree on is that the input shaft is too short. As Anton pointed out recently, if the clutch assembly is replaced with the input shaft there is little chance of a second incident. But, there is no way to guarantee this. If I were in your shoes, I would repair it correctly. I would then check it in 10-15k miles. If it looks good, I would then go to the 80k mark before lubing it again.

    I think the link you are referring to is this one: http://http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bmw_clutches.html . I believe that the "RSR Street 360" clutch is an excellent option. The spring loaded clutch will soften the load to the input shaft. Most clutches do have spring loaded dampener. I always thought it was strange that BMW didn't do this. The idea behind the spring loaded clutches is to keep the engine from ripping up the input shaft. I think it is worth the extra money. People who have installed this clutch haven't had the problem come up again. Other members might have a different experience or view then mine.

    Expect the dealer to charge between $3200-4000 to do the entire job. Some dealers are good, and some aren't so good. Back in the 80's I had an input shaft strip out in the middle of no where. A BMW dealer did the job. I later had to go back and fix some of the work they did. I'm not so impressed with that option because of my experience. The most common option is to remove the transmission and send it to a BMW transmission specialist. It will be cheaper, and done better.

    In regards to you liking the bike. The more you drive oilheads, the more you will like it. They have a lot of character, and you never seem to get bored with them. Once you get past the holidays and make a decision, the forum can provide you with a lot more detailed help.

  4. #34
    Registered User ratze's Avatar
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    Jes sent you a pm, dono if you got it er not.
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  5. #35
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    Where I live there are very few oilheads for sale. Usually there are 25+ oilheads for sale. But, right now there are only 3 for sale. A 96 for $3800 and two 04's for $7000+. So, 5k for a 99 would be just about right. But, having said this, there are still some people desperate to sell their bikes. There is also an airhead going for $1000, and a 61 R27 for $1500. Bad time of year to sell a bike. I am sure the prices will be strong come Spring. Obviously, some locations could have a surplus, so the price is driven down. Two years ago you couldn't sell airheads for $2500. Now they are selling briskly at $3500-5000.

  6. #36
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    These bikes are not tightly packed like many Japanese Bikes. They are easier to work on. That said, this is a Big Job, and there are a lot of steps. A digital camera, and a small tackle box to hold screws, with notes is useful. A torque wrench is a really good idea. The simple beam type is not expensive and they are accurate, and never go out of calibration.

    If you are opening the transmission case, harbor freight has appropriate sizes of digital calipers for the measurements. Mine are good, but always measure before you take apart as a reality check if you are changing bearings.. If you do not have a lift, knee pads from harbor freight are good to have. Your relaxation beverage of choice and a friend available for the heaver items is also nice. Please apologize to your significant other in advance if you are the type to get cranky and frustrated. Some chocolate or other thoughtful gift, and flowers when you are done is not at all a bad idea.

    You will be in awkward positions, for me some preemptive Advil is best. If you do not hurt you just have that much more in reserve for the "learning experiences" . There will be several of those, always.

    Have fun, think of it as a puzzle. Good wrenching.

    Rod

  7. #37
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    Update

    Well I have done nothing yet with the bike. But I did locate a used transmission off of a 2000 RT with supposedly 26000 miles. I have found an independent shop that will pull my old transmission and swap in the used one. But before I pull the trigger on the used one I have a few poor pictures of the spline and wanted to see if anyone could tell me if it looks serviceable. I know this is a long shot but worth a try for the 200 bucks that the guy wants for the tranny. Thanks in advance for your insight and ideas.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #38
    RD'nNH&AZ rdhudson's Avatar
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    NO don't do it!

    There is NO WAY I would commit to buying a transmission until I had mine apart (or someone had it apart for me) as it may be another $200 gone and unneeded. IMHO you need to get this bike taken apart to evaluate WHAT is really wrong. I reread the posts and I don't believe the true reason is known absolutely. I've been there and spent money on flywheel and clutch parts for my Ford Exploder on my teacher's pittance and I ENDED UP NEEDING SOMETHING ELSE. My SO felt really bad but we had to eat ketchup soup for about two weeks to pay for it. AGGGH!
    Have some fun, rip into it, take lots of pictures, ask here, show us pictures, we all have felt the pain and are here to help. AND if it isn't worth fixing you have a good start at parting it out.
    2002 F650GS, 1998 R1100R 75th anniversary edition, 1983 R80RT (just sold), 1959 R60 (in restoration), Honda CT90
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  9. #39
    Registered User GKman's Avatar
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    I've done a spline lube (identical job to trans replacement except for $$$) by myself with a Hanes manual and info from several websites. Tough but can be done. I was always a throw-all-the-bolts-in-a=bucket guy. Bad idea on these. Baggies w/notes and lots of photos, labels on hoses and wires. Mine is an '02 w/ 60k on the clock so a tear-down and inspection of the innards was good insurance for a trouble-free future anyway. None of the website how-to's mentioned rear engine seal, front transmission seal or clutch slave cylinder. Not sure if all are easily replaceable at this level of tear-down but would hate to labor it again for a $50 part buried in there.

    At the price, I'd jump on that used trans and be happy to use it as a doorstop on the off chance that I didn't need it. I never paid expensive insurance premiums because I was pretty sure I'd need it. Same here.

    Answering to the wife? We don't co-mingle money so we stay out of each others business for a start. Second, life is bigger than the sum of its parts. My projects build me as much or more than I build them. My wife too. She has many, many good water color paintings unsold but she still paints every day because that who she is and that's what she does. My lifetime expenses on motorcycles, repairs, basket cases, rides, memories has been very modest. Not every single one of them was a bargain but overall it has been and I never was in it to make money. When I'm issued my white rocking chair, I'll have more stories than "I bought, I bought.."

    The considerable reading I have done on these problems tells me there is a high probability that your transmission case was made mis-aligned to the engine and will continue to eat splines. The trans you have pictured was either built correctly or has very few miles.

    Lube your splines and seize the day not visa versa.

  10. #40
    Registered User ratze's Avatar
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    If it wer me i would snap that gearbox up, simply because i know i could use it somewhere. unfortunatly i have felt the sting of this debackel on a few occasions, but this is my addiction and what i like to do. fix and ride, it takes alot of reserch and with the help of this community you can do er. happy motoring.
    The pursuit of reality at all cost.

  11. #41
    GEEZER lsouth3's Avatar
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    I bought a tranny for my R1100RS a few years back from Idaho and it proved to be a great buy. Mine was the old style from 1994 built with open bearings which were vulnerable to all kinds of swarf from a new box breaking in. The replacement was from a 99 RT and it was a perfect fit. The PO had used a MOLY additive and it shifts like butter even today. It was a bit of a gamble but I had been sold on my bike for years so it was not much of a stretch to me. I am in East Texas and will help you in any way I can.
    Lee
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    1994 R1100RSL, Black. 1994 R1100RSL, Silver Pearl and a "new" 2001 R1100RS, Red!
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  12. #42
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    As long as things sound good with the $200 gearbox, I'd snatch it up. If you don't need it, you can get your money back later and a good used input shaft costs more than than that, not to mention the labor to rebuild a box. For comparison, I sold the complete intermediate shaft out of my 1996 parts box for $115 w/ shipping. I won't part with my pristine M94 input shaft because I know I'll need it eventually. It would be nice if the pictures of the input shaft were better, but I don't see any wear in the blurry photos.

    For comparison, here is what mine looked like when I lubed them. Notice the thinning of the splines around the middle of their length (rear end of where the hub rides). That is what you don't want to see. They should be consistent from front to rear.


  13. #43
    Registered User twinsig's Avatar
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    Buy that gearbox!
    I've got one ( spare) I'm reworking, if it's all good, it goes in on the next lube job, soon.
    My 6 speed has at least 115k on it.
    Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch
    Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote

  14. #44
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    I picked up the gear box yesterday and feel good about the decision. The indie shop pulled my transmission and indeed the spline shaft suffered a catastrophic failure. The clutch is toast so that will all need to be replaced but with the cost savings on the tranny I should be able to actually afford the repair costs .

    This has been a trying experience but hopefully the end is near. Thanks for all your input and support. I will let y'all know how it really turns out in the end.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by moralem View Post
    I picked up the gear box yesterday and feel good about the decision. The indie shop pulled my transmission and indeed the spline shaft suffered a catastrophic failure. The clutch is toast so that will all need to be replaced but with the cost savings on the tranny I should be able to actually afford the repair costs .

    This has been a trying experience but hopefully the end is near. Thanks for all your input and support. I will let y'all know how it really turns out in the end.

    I hope you can get this sorted out and get the bike on the road. The RT is an outstanding long haul machine.

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