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Thread: 78, r80/7 sump gasket

  1. #1
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    78, r80/7 sump gasket

    Hi, I pulled the sump on my r80 to check out how much sludge ect was in there, I got a new bmw gasket, what should I use when I install the pan for a sealant if any thing. I found a very clean sump and motor interior so that was cool.

    Thanks
    Brian

    86 k100rt, 78 r80/7

  2. #2
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    I would not recommend any sealant at all (no need- the BMW gaskets are very good). Be sure to reference the the torque values for the pan bolts and don't over tighten.
    Jim
    '78 R80/7 and '84 R100RS (Blues Brothers)
    '90 and '93 Red Mazda Miatas ("Jelly Bean" and "Red Hot")
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas & freshly greased bearings!)

  3. #3
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    Also. double check bolts after a few days or week to check their tightness. They can work loose.
    "The difference between death and taxes is that death doesn't change every time congress meets." - Will Rogers

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    Registered User godfather's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jad01 View Post
    I would not recommend any sealant at all (no need- the BMW gaskets are very good). Be sure to reference the the torque values for the pan bolts and don't over tighten.
    +1

    I believe the pan gasket has a specific orientation. One side must face the block... But I may be wrong.

    As stated. DO NOT over tighten the pan bolts!
    Attitude is everything!
    1978 R100/7
    08' V-Strom 650 great light weight tourer

  5. #5
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Since the bolts thread into the open engine cavity, oil can migrate down the bolts. It's best to include some kind of non-hardening sealant on the bolts, basically the same stuff you'd use on the cylinder base surface. Something like Hylomar, Permatex Ultra Gray, Yamabond, Dreibond, etc.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Only the bolt directly under the oil filter is tapped through on the later Airheads. The rest (and the gasket) can be installed dry.

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    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
    Only the bolt directly under the oil filter is tapped through on the later Airheads. The rest (and the gasket) can be installed dry.
    What do you consider "later"? The OP has a '78.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Thank you for the reply's, I will put it together tonight. I have a inch pound torque wrench and will be careful.
    Brian

    86 k100rt, 78 r80/7

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    What do you consider "later"? The OP has a '78.
    My 1976 only had one bolt drilled through.

    ETA: You can stick a stiff wire or small rod up each hole to check if it is tapped through. If using longer bolts, make sure that they do not bottom out before spec'ed torque is reached. The stock bolts at the correct torque will hold fine. If the threads have been damaged from prior over-torque, then other measures are necessary. I loosen and re-torque each bolt before I remove the pan to confirm that they are all good. You would not want to find that out during re-assembly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Since the bolts thread into the open engine cavity, oil can migrate down the bolts. It's best to include some kind of non-hardening sealant on the bolts, basically the same stuff you'd use on the cylinder base surface. Something like Hylomar, Permatex Ultra Gray, Yamabond, Dreibond, etc.
    Ditto !!

    Since the threads in the block are tapped deeper than used with the original bolts (except for one just under filter opening), I purchased longer bolts (about 1/4") to get a bit more thread grasp. Be sure and do NOT do the one below the filter cover.

    The gasket, because of its shape, can only be put on one way.
    "The difference between death and taxes is that death doesn't change every time congress meets." - Will Rogers

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    She is all bolted up. I think I am the first to remove the sump, it took some time to clean the old gasket off. this no sealant thing is new to me, feels a bit funny bolting things up dry.

    I will move to the transmission oil, and spline lube.

    Thanks
    Brian

    86 k100rt, 78 r80/7

  12. #12
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    The side of the OE gasket with the printing on it is the side with adhesive already there. It's heat activated and that side contacts the block, not the pan.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

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    Quote Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
    If using longer bolts, make sure that they do not bottom out before spec'ed torque is reached. If the threads have been damaged from prior over-torque, then other measures are necessary. I loosen and re-torque each bolt before I remove the pan to confirm that they are all good. You would not want to find that out during re-assembly.
    Great points!
    "The difference between death and taxes is that death doesn't change every time congress meets." - Will Rogers

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    You should Loctite and retorque the bolts holding the pickup tube while you are in there - loss of these is an engine killer.
    I am converting to the silicone gaskets for this application - Rocky Point Cycle carries them. A lot easier to fine tune if there are subsequent leaks.

  15. #15
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Agree silicone gaskets are best for this application.
    For valve covers I say only if surfaces are imperfect, otherwise they are PITA.
    NEVER for float bowls.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

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