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Thread: 2004 K1200GT Fairing Removal

  1. #1
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    2004 K1200GT Fairing Removal

    Ok search has kicked my butt on finding it. Bike is starting to run hot at idle. Want to inspect the radiators and check fans. And is there any instructions on this board as to proper way to remove all the fairings to get to look, and clean the radiators if needed. And test fans? Already checked the fuses and no problem there.

  2. #2
    NC Piedmont Rider ncstephen's Avatar
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    Easy things to consider first

    Where I might start is check coolent level under seat.

    Then know

    My 03 KRS idling in traffic or running in a low gear at 3000 rpms will quickly raise the temp needle to just under the red triangle. It has done this its entire life. It will often do this whenever rpms are in this range and speed is under 55. Add a twisty mountain road and running 6000 + rpms in 2nd and 3rd and the needle lives right at the edge of red.

    The fans come on about the time the needle is brushing the underside of the bottom edge of the red triangle near the stalk of the needle. You can easily hear them and feel for hot air on both side. Let it idle and the temp rise and observe the fan behavior.

    When washing I typically will rinse the surface of the radiators with a heavy flow (but not overly powerwash force) of water from under the front opening. You can easily see both radiators.

    With that said the temp light has never come on. Does yours?

    You might even just flow water reverse through the side vents and out towards the front of radiators.


    Cover removal is covered pretty well in the Clymers and the owners manual. The things to know are there are tabs on the front fairing next to the windshield that have to slide up and pop out.

    There is a rubber grommet on the inside of the side fairings about where the knees/top of shin are that has to be worked off a mounting stub. That can be trying but it will come off

    There are tabs on the top of the side panel at the gas tank panel that must be cleared.

    I think you have to remove the knee wind guards separately as well.

    Most screws are a standard length. There are a few short ones that go near the radiator hoses and long ones that go next to the windshield. Keep track of what comes out of where.

    Be careful with the side frame of the front fairing where it comes around over the side fairings. There is a protective cover in your tool kit for this. If not one, wrap with some cloth and duct tape. It will scratch the faring quickly.

    Basic order if I remember right.

    Remove front wind extensions either side of windshield ,
    Remove inner fairing piece on each side of instrument panel, Notice how one screw mounts to both side and inner panels. Remember this when putting things back
    Remove the screws that hold the front panel to the side brace that is exposed once you remove the inner pannels
    Remove Front fairing, Notice screws up to either side of fork on the front underside.
    Once loose, work tabs loose around windshield

    [Remove knee wind protection]

    Remove belly pan Notice how side panels and belly pan mate

    Remove seat

    I think you have to loosen the rear side panels so that the front can become un mated to the side panel. Pay attention here so you will remember this step when putting things back

    Remove screws for side panels.. again note the 4 short and 2 long from the other standard ones in all of this. ( I think I remember that correct)

    Once all screws are out reach up inside best you can near the stub that holds the grommet and pull the fairing out with steady pressure, working to not bend it but pull straight out. Once that is free then clear the tabs on the top edge near the gas filler cap., carefully work out from the side frame of the front fairing and there you go.

    Hope this helps.

    Once you know this it is a matter of not much time to get all the pieces off and on. Usually by the fourth time you can do it pretty quickly.

    This is a quick overview done while eating lunch. There may be some oversight errors.

    NCS
    03 K 1200RS (Black is Best)
    03 Honda RC51
    74 Honda CB750 K4

  3. #3
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    Thanks, have checked the fluid level. And light has not come on as of yet. But is running hotter than was before. Started after a long trip. So was thinking I might has sucked some junk into the fins and probably need to clean them out. Will know more once I get to them. Thank you for the info.

  4. #4
    Registered User 58058D's Avatar
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    A key thing to take from NCS' initial comments is that if the light has not come on and your needle is not in the red, it may simply be running hottER, not overheating. Mine runs way cooler here on the coast, but inland, especially in the summer it runs right as NCS notes. There are a number of threads both here and other forums that basically say the same thing as here. So, rather than things with the bike having changed after the long trip, it is more likely you are now more aware of where the guage is reading and ambient conditions may be different. But all this reminds me that it is time to flush my rads from behind to encourage all those dead bug body parts and dust to flow away and allow more air to pass.
    Jim Douglas '00 K1200RS >135,000 miles my primary bike again,
    Gone: '09 K1300S sold @ 22k mi, '93 K1100RS traded @ 78k mi, '85 K100RS sold @ 44k mi
    '06 Kaw 650R track bike sold
    http://www.seagullbb.com/

  5. #5
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncstephen View Post
    Cover removal is covered pretty well in the Clymers and the owners manual. The things to know are there are tabs on the front fairing next to the windshield that have to slide up and pop out.

    I use a plastic tool to pry this area loose.
    Lee 2011 K1300S
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  6. #6
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncstephen View Post
    There is a rubber grommet on the inside of the side fairings about where the knees/top of shin are that has to be worked off a mounting stub. That can be trying but it will come off
    Here's a picture of the stud. Just ignore the tank bolt label. I slip my hand behind the fairing and push it off of the stud instead of pulling on the fairing. You need small hands.
    Each time I have the fairing off I put a little vaseline on the grommet and stud to make removal in the future easier.




    This picture shows two mounting points for the nose fairing.




    Two more mounting points circled in red for the nose.
    Lee 2011 K1300S
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

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