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Thread: Winter storage tasks, well, one of them

  1. #16
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    There's always discussion about getting LL from the airport and what it can do for the bike. First, I'm pretty sure it is mostly illegal, mainly from the standpoint of that the "road going" taxes have not been paid on that gasoline. It's obviously meant for airplanes. Second, the lead part would be helpful for an older engine that has not been converted to unleaded seats. But it's usually something you add in small quantities...maybe a cup or two per tankful. I wonder how useful (wasteful?) it would be to get a full tank of it. Finally, I don't think we really need much octane beyond what we already get at the pump...if you can't run the bike on 91-93 pump octane, you've got more problems that really should be dealt with. And if you've converted to an unleaded topend or it's already in the bike, you don't need the lead anyway. I just see it as more of a hassle.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisDarrow View Post
    Octane is kinda like amperage in an electrical circuit. TO MUCH octane is NOT one bit harmful and is just there to be used if needed by the compression and spark that is available.......To little octane is what is damaging......What goes to waste is just money down the drain; but surely not harmful to the system.........God bless......Dennis
    Octane rating is a measure for the amount of ignition retarders. The higher the octane rating, the more retarding additives. In the end, you have a certain amount of fuel that your engine will have a hard time to combust. You get less energy out of the fuel, thus less performance. It may show the same effect as running too rich. If you feel, that this is not one bit harmful, God may indeed bless you.

    I know of people who fill the tank with AV gas just for storage and drain it before they run the engine again in the spring. And that is just money down the drain - provided they can't do anyhting else with the gas.

  3. #18
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    Tanked up today with 5 gal for household implements, non-oxy, 91 R+M/2, $3.99 per gallon. On one plug this gas would ping under load in 5th, 9.5 comp. With dual ignition, will not ping under heavy throttle. If anybody is dumping out their avgas next spring give me a call I can use it environmentally. Old info, I think something like Real Gas web site tells where you can buy legal non-oxy gas in the US. Airheads can plan their next trip across US, criss crossing like a jigsaw puzzle.

  4. #19
    Survivor akbeemer's Avatar
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    Whoever said Beemer riders are not anal-retentive, has not read this thread?!?!
    Kevin Huddy
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ninety8 View Post
    Old info, I think something like Real Gas web site tells where you can buy legal non-oxy gas in the US.
    Pure-Gas is non-ethanol...don't know about non-oxy gas??

    http://pure-gas.org/
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  6. #21
    lubbent
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    Avgas

    Yeah it is slightly off the books, so to speak, but I have never been stopped and had anyone test the fuel in my tank. And I don't do it for the octane- It is just because it is so good for storage. There are no other benefits, real or imagined. If there was still 80/87 avgas around, which had very little to no lead in its final days, I'd use that. I can tell you the bikes run fine on all these, but it is just that one winter tank. I could always drain it back out and put it in the airplane, which by the way, normally burns 87 octane car gas (legally). So let's say I do that, and it's going into the plane in the spring. 100LL is about 5.50 a gallon, for those who were asking. And road taxes are paid on avgas- it's not like heating oil for diesel fuel. But it is an off-road fuel because of the lead. I'd rather have no-lead with the storage lifetime, to tell the truth. At my plane annuals, before I could find no-ethanol gas, and ran 100LL, the plugs always had lead clinkers. With car gas in the plane (legally, with an EAA STC), the plugs are so clean I think someone has already cleaned them. And it's about 2 dollars a gallon cheaper.

  7. #22
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    For me, I just drained the tank, and removed it, drained out all remaining fuel. Then oiled it up inside all over. Hung it on the hook. Drained out all fuel from carbs & fuel lines.

    Will spray all over bike with a light oil similar to WD-40 (LPS #2) today. Then, when I feel like it, and weather isn't too cold, will do my projects - remove tranny and grease splines, and re-grease swingarm bearings. I also want to replace pushrod tube seals - they seep oil. Disconnect battery from ground.

    Done, I think.

  8. #23
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    100 ll

    I lived down the road from a small airport in SC and that is all I ran in my /5. It loved the gas, but it was also about $6.00 a gallon.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmylee View Post
    Done, I think.
    O.K., then get in your car and drive up here. I have more than enough projects to keep you busy. Some even on BMWs

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMSimon View Post
    O.K., then get in your car and drive up here. I have more than enough projects to keep you busy. Some even on BMWs
    I don't think you can afford me. My rates are too high! Although, I may stop by - just to make my final plans on that break-in!

    I've already figured your dogs are easy - just pet them and give them a snack. I am just trying to figure out how to take care of the fingerprints, and then there is that security camera to disble.....

    Still thinking . . .

    I sure could use a couple of new (to me) BMW's! Of course, I would have to go over them with a fine-toothed comb because of their current owner's terrible maintenance program. I figure that stealing them would be like "freeing" them from a terrible bondage. I need to pull this off while the owner is completely disabled.

  11. #26
    Minnesota Nice! braddog's Avatar
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    I charge the batteries. I change the oil if they're at the point where a change is required (approx. 3000 miles or so). I fill the tanks full and add the appropriate amount of Stabil. I take them for a short ride around the neighborhood. I park them in my garage, on their centerstands and cover them up with the appropriate motorcycle cover. See you in the spring, girls. I don't want to turn this into an oil thread, but I use Mobil 1 15/50, so I'm not too concerned with acidity, breakdown, etc. I've been doing this same routine for 14 years on the airhead. Come spring, I check the tire pressures, if they turn over, I attempt to start without further charging of the battery. I've never had one fail to start.

    This is not a recommendation to ANYONE about how to set up your bikes for storage. This is just what I do, and it seems to work for me. For the record, I usually get them ready for storage the first week of December, and usually bring them out the last week in March, so we're talking about approximately 4 months of down time.
    -----------------------------------------
    Brad D. - Member #105766
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  12. #27
    beemerfield
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    Spray some fogging oil in the cylinders and put steel wool in the mufflers to keep mice out. Drain gas from tank/remove carb bowls, keep batt charged. Seems to work.
    beemerfield

  13. #28
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    Winter Storage

    There seems to be a lot of guessing in this thread, and, some downright WRONG information.
    Besides gunking and washing and drying (do drying on last ride?), waxing, and an oil change (usually but not necessarily with a filter change, and the things that go along with a filter change, depending on model, and if a cooler, etc...); and a final 10 mile minimum ride........some basics are:
    Lubricate the barrels of the cables where they fit the bar levers (always the clutch, the brake only if you have front drum brake).
    Lubricate the other areas, such as the swing arm pivots, rear pedal pivot, ETC.
    Drain the fuel tank. Remove the petcock(s). There are 5 types of petcocks....some have outlet screens, some have screens in the tank, ETC. Be sure screens are clean. The tall screen in the tank was originally made with NO BONDED metal washer. If yours is like that, replace with the later bonded metal washer type, and discard the cambric gasket-washer used on the original style.
    With the petcocks off, FLUSh the tank with common dish detergent and water, and then just water, and do a good job. A garden hose is fine.
    Empty as much water as you can, then put tank in an area where air can rise through the petcock holes and dry the tank 100%. You will want the tank cap open, or if a screw type, removed. I do mine over house floor heater register outlet....it takes a day or three.
    If the petcock was stiff operating, take it apart and clean and lubricate with faint amount of silicone grease (common autoparts store dielectric grease). Inspect the parts though, might need replacing (usually NOT).
    Empty the carburetor bowls, replace carefully to not injure the body cork gasket.
    Inspect aftermarket filters and hoses.

    Today's rotgut gasoline does not store well, even with something like Stabil in it. Hence my recommendation of cleaning and drying of the tank. This will also prevent bottom moisture, which collects normally in fuel tanks, from rotting the bottom out.

    If the oil change (and filter if scheduled) is done as I said, above, there is NO REASON to change the oil again, in the spring.

    You can store the bike on or off the tires. Normal pressures or even a bit more. If the bike has NYLON carcasses, I suggest raising the wheels off the floor.

    DO NOT use aviation gasoline in an Airhead except for a cup per tank...for valve/seats protection, early models. BTW...the INcrease in octane on aviation gasoline comes from TWO areas, one is a goodly dose of tetraethyl lead, and the other is that av-gas is vastly purer than road pump gas. Av-gas WILL store for many years. A small amount (illegal) in the normal fuel load will protect the old valves and seats of the pre-1981 bikes. There is a full article on it on my website.

    Aviation gasoline burns badly in Airheads if used in concentrations over around 25 or 30%. DO NOT fill the tank with av-gas. Not only is it hard starting (poor volatility due to Reid Vapor Pressure specification) but it will carbon up the head and piston, and probably even the rings. Under some circumstances this is reversed and the engine will run quite hot in the combustion chamber.

    Do NOT cover the bike if it is outdoors, where the wind can cause the covering to flap about. If it has to be outdoors, be sure the covering is well-affixed.

    End of summer is a good time to consider other chores, such as the annual rite of changing the brake fluid.

    ETC.

    snowbum

  14. #29
    Registered User stanley83's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowbum1 View Post
    There seems to be a lot of guessing in this thread, and, some downright WRONG information...

    If the oil change (and filter if scheduled) is done as I said, above, there is NO REASON to change the oil again, in the spring...

    Do NOT cover the bike if it is outdoors, where the wind can cause the covering to flap about. If it has to be outdoors, be sure the covering is well-affixed....
    snowbum
    Thanks so much! I'll skip the spring oil change and make sure the Bike Barn is well anchored.
    Justin in Somerville, MA
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  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowbum1 View Post
    There seems to be a lot of guessing in this thread,
    snowbum
    I see there was some more guessing as well!

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