Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Trouble Shooting Heated Grips-2002 R1150RT

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    357

    Trouble Shooting Heated Grips-2002 R1150RT

    Grips used to work fine, now don't. I checked voltage to the connector under the gas tank and it says I'm getting .03 volts on low and high settings. Fuse is good. I'm assuming previous owner installed it. PO also installed a European styled RH grip switch, on which the kill switch failed this summer. However when I bought the bike, he included the original RH grip switch, which I re-installed when the kill switch failed.

    I'm wondering about the voltage (.03). What could be affecting the voltage? I'm wondering if the replacement switch is bad and that's why the PO replaced it with the EU switch. Any further checks I could make before spending a bundle on a new switch?

  2. #2
    Happily Bent dieselyoda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Winnipeg, MB, Canada
    Posts
    585

    I like to start simple.

    0.03V would be about enough from the grease/oil from your hands to create that voltage. It is inconsequential.

    I would confirm that you have system voltage on the bus side of the fuse and on the load side. I have seen fuses that looked good but actually were toast.

    After that, a good wiring diagram is your next best friend. Don't hold me to this but heated grips don't have a relay but if you have power to the switch and nothing out, it's the switch.

    Someone here should point you to a good wiring diagram for your bike.

    For me, I don't need to worry about heated grips anymore. I do have to get the will power to fix my snow blower. Damn night shift, they don't get anything done.
    Last edited by dieselyoda; 11-11-2013 at 06:01 AM.
    1997 R1100RT (Restored Basket Case) , 1981 KZ 440 LTD (Restored Basket Case)
    1986 K75S(the beutch), 1993 K1100RS (blown engine), 1997 Chev Short Box (4x4 with an LT1)
    "You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him."

  3. #3
    Lucky motorradmike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    1,260
    The voltage you measured is effectively zero, or OFF, and as DY said, inconsequential.
    You have an open connection upstream of that which may or may not be the switch.
    Here is a wiring diagram for an 1100 you may find easier to read than the manual.

    I thought DougRaymond made one for the 1150RT as well but I can't find it.
    You could PM him.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  4. #4
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    south of Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,564
    I tried to upload Doug's schematic, but the MOA server is telling me "Invalid File".
    It's a pdf, grrr...

  5. #5
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    1,996
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    I tried to upload Doug's schematic, but the MOA server is telling me "Invalid File".
    It's a pdf, grrr...
    Sent you a PM.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  6. #6
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    south of Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,564
    The only difference I see in the heated grip wiring for the 1150 is that Doug added a 1.9 ohm resistor in series with the "Low" side of the switch. Otherwise, that ought to get you back in business.

  7. #7
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    1,996
    I sent Pauls1150 Doug Raymond's schematics as he was having trouble downloading them.
    Here's a good link to all three of them. http://www.mac-pac.org/tech/electrical-diagrams/

    They all work. I just tested them.
    And thanks again to Doug Raymond for sharing these with us!

    Maybe Kurt can add this link to the Resources and Links Thread.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    357
    Thanks for the schematic. After checking it out with the multimeter, the only thing possible is a bad switch, which is relatively easy to replace while I've got it apart. Not looking forward to buying another $250 part though.

  9. #9
    RD'nNH&AZ rdhudson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Summer in Lakes Region of NH and winter in the Sonoran Desert of AZ
    Posts
    142

    Not the grip?

    I have seen the grip be bad so if you have power beyond the switch the grip can be repaired. The ones I have seen fail happen where the wire is soldered to the heating wire or element, sometimes they fail along the heated wire. BMW says its a unit and buy another but you can fix it. Pull back on the rubber flange on the grip and cutback towards the grip end circumferentially around the grip to release the grip from the element (don't cut that or the wire) roll the grip back and expose the wire to resolder it. See: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770662
    2002 F650GS, 1998 R1100R 75th anniversary edition, 1983 R80RT (just sold), 1959 R60 (in restoration), Honda CT90
    If you must make a mistake, make a new one each time.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •