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Thread: Parts Source for R1200CL

  1. #1
    Borderdog
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    Parts Source for R1200CL

    Looking for oil filter, crush ring, oil filter tool and supply source(s).
    Prepping to do my own repairs on my R1200CL. Looking for a repair manual.

    Also looking for a lead on Renegade or other engine guards.

    Appreciate any source suggestions.

    Thanks, Borderdog

  2. #2
    Old man in the mountains osbornk's Avatar
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    The things you need are the same as any oilhead. A good source is http://www.beemerboneyard.com/ . Also, I found a repair manual on DVD on e-bay cheap but I think it was bootlegged as it was a BMW production for like $10.
    'You can say what you want about the South, but I almost never hear of anyone wanting to retire to the North.

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    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  4. #4
    Borderdog
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    Parts Source

    osbornk The things you need are the same as any oilhead. A good source is http://www.beemerboneyard.com/ . Also, I found a repair manual on DVD on e-bay cheap but I think it was bootlegged as it was a BMW production for like $10.

    Have looked at this site among others. I guess to refine my question is for a "best price" source for filters, etc. i.e., you can go to RockAuto and get Bosch filters for about $3.39. Would be nice to get everything from one online source.

    Many sources for repair manuals/DVD's, just looking for best price source.

    Noticed you have an 03 R1200CLC. What's your opinion on engine guards and best for our bike style to protect the fairing & bags?

  5. #5
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    www.ibmwr.org has a manual for sale for your CL. Its in the marketplace, lower right hand corner under manuals.

    Then to work on your CL you need a stand. The bike needs to be level to get the oil drained.

    Crush washers? Either you have to buy them in bulk, or you can use teflon tape. A roll of tape costs about as much as 1 crush washer, and it won't drip.

    Filter wrench, once you figure out what filter you are going to use, buy a bunch of filters cause they are less expensive if you buy in quantity, then buy a filter wrench that fits the filter and is thin enough to fit inside the filter housing on the BMW.

    Oil, you should use motorcycle oil of the appropriate viscosity per your motorcycle. 12 years reading oil threads, haven't heard of an engine failure due to the oil, or filter. Lack of oil, different story.

    JON

  6. #6
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkCloud View Post

    Oil, you should use motorcycle oil of the appropriate viscosity per your motorcycle. 12 years reading oil threads, haven't heard of an engine failure due to the oil, or filter. Lack of oil, different story.

    JON
    I suppose that all depends on how you define "engine failure". If the rings wear in 100K miles instead of 250K miles that might be a failure. In our specific case, worn valve lifter bores on an R1100RS allowed lifters to wobble in the bores sufficient to fracture the hard brittle skirt. Is this an oil related failure? I think so. It did happen at 314K miles but I still classify it as oil/lubrication related.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

  7. #7
    Registered User clowry's Avatar
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    If you haven't already, you should also visit www.chromeheads.org - your source of information about Cs and CLs!

    Cheryl

  8. #8
    Old man in the mountains osbornk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Borderdog View Post
    osbornk Noticed you have an 03 R1200CLC. What's your opinion on engine guards and best for our bike style to protect the fairing & bags?
    I don't have engine or bag guards but I think they would be helpful. My bike has fallen on both sides while stopped. I forgot to deploy the side stand when I got off and it fell on the left side on a paved parking lot . I was able to pick it up without any problem but when it got upright, it just kept going and fell on the right side. It scratched both bags and the fairing and make a tiny and almost invisible scratch on one valve cover. The guards would have probably prevented the damage but they are expensive. Thank goodness my brother has a body shop. I took the bag lids and fairing off (easy) and took them to his shop. I sanded and taped them up (the chrome parts are glued on mostly) and paid little brother $100 to paint and clearcoat them. Matched perfectly. The mojave brown is the same color by the same name BMW used on 93-97 cars. Put the color code in his computer as a car and the formula popped up. It did not come up when I put it in as a motorcycle.
    'You can say what you want about the South, but I almost never hear of anyone wanting to retire to the North.

  9. #9
    Old man in the mountains osbornk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I suppose that all depends on how you define "engine failure". If the rings wear in 100K miles instead of 250K miles that might be a failure. In our specific case, worn valve lifter bores on an R1100RS allowed lifters to wobble in the bores sufficient to fracture the hard brittle skirt. Is this an oil related failure? I think so. It did happen at 314K miles but I still classify it as oil/lubrication related.
    What makes you think it would not have happened as quickly or more quickly with motorcycle specific oil? When you look at rings, bearings, pistons and similar items, you can't tell if they are from a car, motorcycle, tractor or anything else. How does the parts know that they got their own special oil? My 2 John Deere lawn and garden tractors work much harder and at a higher speed than my 2 BMW bikes on plain old automotive oil. The air cooled one turns 23 this year and the water cooled one turns 13. I've used plain old automotive oil in about 15 or more 2 wheeled vehicles since I got my first Allstate motor scooter in 1963. Never had a problem. A friend of mine picked up 4 quarts of BMW oil and a BMW filter at the dealer last week and spent over $82.
    'You can say what you want about the South, but I almost never hear of anyone wanting to retire to the North.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I suppose that all depends on how you define "engine failure". If the rings wear in 100K miles instead of 250K miles that might be a failure. In our specific case, worn valve lifter bores on an R1100RS allowed lifters to wobble in the bores sufficient to fracture the hard brittle skirt. Is this an oil related failure? I think so. It did happen at 314K miles but I still classify it as oil/lubrication related.
    What kind, type, brand oil did you use on Big Red to get 314K out of the engine? JON

  11. #11
    Borderdog
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    [QUOTE=osbornk;590078] Thank goodness my brother has a body shop. I took the bag lids and fairing off (easy) and took them to his shop. I sanded and taped them up (the chrome parts are glued on mostly) and paid little brother $100 to paint and clearcoat them.[/QUOTE]

    Osbornk,

    I can visualize your drop. I've not met a R1200CL owner that has not dropped one. You are indeed lucky to know a bodyman who knows how to work ABS plastic.

    I'm debating engine/pannier guards. On one hand they will protect the fairing/bag lids and covers. On the other hand, as a friend has said, "if you pay enough for parts and bodywork maybe you'll be more cautious." I hate being a pessimist, but it'll probably happen again. And, even with chrome bars they will get scratched at a minimum!

  12. #12
    I like TANG! bubbagazoo's Avatar
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    I had two drops when I owned my CL. The first one, even with bag and engine guards, resulted in scratched fairing and right side pannier. The second drop resulted in no damage because the bike ended up in sage brush (that stuff is SOOFFFFTTT).

    The way I see it, the extra guards are just more chrome to clean. I would not have had the stuff on the bike had I purchased it new.
    Robert
    2010 Suzuki GSX1250SEA
    ÔÇ£If you get in too far over your head, remember - full throttle and make it spectacular!ÔÇØ http://www.yearroundriders.com

  13. #13
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    Looking for the luggage protection bars

    I am also interested in tracking down a set of luggage protection bars for my CLC. Tried beemerboneyard but no luck. Must say I am trying not to spend the $450 plus shipping for a set. If you know of one (reside in Ontario, Canada) I would be interested in hearing.

  14. #14
    Registered User
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    Looking for the luggage protection bars

    I am also interested in tracking down a set of luggage protection bars for my CLC. Tried beemerboneyard but no luck. Must say I am trying not to spend the $450 plus shipping for a se If you know of one (reside in Ontario, Canada) I would be interested in hearing.

  15. #15
    JoeDabbs
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    I had the luggage protection and engine guards on my CLC. They do well on a "soft drop", but when I got rear-ended, the front fairing became rashed. The bike was totalled, anyway, so it didn't matter. I would recommend both sets of guards. They did their job on my 2 incidental drops, with only a tiny scratch on the engine guard.
    Joe Dabbs
    2011 RT
    1975 R60/6

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