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Thread: 96 K1100LT clutch slip

  1. #1
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    96 K1100LT clutch slip

    Today I was cruising in 4th at 50 and cranked the throttle. RPM's jumped and then the speed caught up.

    suggestions? Other than the drive her into the ocean one. I am sure this question has been addressed. I tried to search for clutch slip and 50 pages of things unrelated came up. suggestions?

  2. #2
    3 Red Bricks
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    Do you have the proper freeplay in the clutch cable?

    Do you get a small puddle of oil just in front of the centerstand when you park the bike?



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

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    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
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  3. #3
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Do you have the proper freeplay in the clutch cable?

    Do you get a small puddle of oil just in front of the centerstand when you park the bike?



    I do have the free play..I did the adjustment according to Chris Harris. It is really only about a 1/2 inch before engagement. There is no oil leak

  4. #4
    Registered User 58058D's Avatar
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    As I recall, the '96 does not have a weep hole in the bell housing, so, since it does not have a drip as Lee asked about, is there a noticably misting of oil at the mating surface of the transmission to the bell housing? What Lee and I are getting to is whether or not your clutch has been coated by either transmission fluid or oil. A rear seal leak on the engine would allow engine oil to pass into the clutch area allowing contamination of the clutch plate. A failed transmission seal would allow trans fluid to contaminate the clutch. When my clutch slave seal failed, each pump of the clutch forced fluid past the seal and down the push rod to the trans seal which it destroyed, which in turn allowed fluids to contaminate the clutch. I made it 200 miles after I first noticed an issue with the clutch. Of course, trans seals can fail for other reasons. When mine became contaminated, it exhibited the same behaviour as you describe. It progressed rapidly, and I just barely made it home. A full clutch replacement was required along with the new slave seal and trans seal. Did most of it myself and save a ton, see all the posts here about doing such a job.
    Jim Douglas '00 K1200RS >135,000 miles my primary bike again,
    Gone: '09 K1300S sold @ 22k mi, '93 K1100RS traded @ 78k mi, '85 K100RS sold @ 44k mi
    '06 Kaw 650R track bike sold
    http://www.seagullbb.com/

  5. #5
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 58058D View Post
    As I recall, the '96 does not have a weep hole in the bell housing, so, since it does not have a drip as Lee asked about, is there a noticably misting of oil at the mating surface of the transmission to the bell housing? What Lee and I are getting to is whether or not your clutch has been coated by either transmission fluid or oil. A rear seal leak on the engine would allow engine oil to pass into the clutch area allowing contamination of the clutch plate. A failed transmission seal would allow trans fluid to contaminate the clutch. When my clutch slave seal failed, each pump of the clutch forced fluid past the seal and down the push rod to the trans seal which it destroyed, which in turn allowed fluids to contaminate the clutch. I made it 200 miles after I first noticed an issue with the clutch. Of course, trans seals can fail for other reasons. When mine became contaminated, it exhibited the same behaviour as you describe. It progressed rapidly, and I just barely made it home. A full clutch replacement was required along with the new slave seal and trans seal. Did most of it myself and save a ton, see all the posts here about doing such a job.
    The only thing I did recently was replace tranny fluid..It did take more than the quart before it registered on the fork adj tool. I also noticed an oil smell
    today. How do I find the posts on how to do the job?

  6. #6
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    I dont know if it matters or not but the transmission was much hotter to the touch today than the engine after about hour cool down

  7. #7
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    Yes sirs, I do have oil coming out of the weep hole

  8. #8
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Step 1 is to make sure the transmission is not over filled. If it is the front seal is likely to leak.

    Step 2 if it was overfilled is to drain and refill the transmission correctly. 850cc I believe so if it took a quart it is way too full.

    Step 3 is to see if it continues to slip after no more oil is contaminating the clutch.

    Step 4 would be to remove the transmission and fix the clutch.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  9. #9
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Step 1 is to make sure the transmission is not over filled. If it is the front seal is likely to leak.

    Step 2 if it was overfilled is to drain and refill the transmission correctly. 850cc I believe so if it took a quart it is way too full.

    Step 3 is to see if it continues to slip after no more oil is contaminating the clutch.

    Step 4 would be to remove the transmission and fix the clutch.
    Thats what I am looking for. I did drain out. Is any hypoid 80-90W fine?

  10. #10
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leftturn View Post
    Thats what I am looking for. I did drain out. Is any hypoid 80-90W fine?
    GL5 rated 80w90 is what is specified. My personal preference is Castrol 80w90 Limited Slip. It used to be called Hypoy C but they changed the name. I like it because Tom Cutter recommends it due to a high sulphur content.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

  11. #11
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    I just replaced the tranny fluid. I used valvoline synthetic blend 80-90 gl5. We shall see.

  12. #12
    Registered User 58058D's Avatar
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    As Paul noted, 850 cc is the correct amount. It has been so long since I had my 1100, I don't recall if the owner's manual mentions using the tool to measure or not. BUT, I never used a measuring tool on any of my K bikes other than the measure of 850cc in a container. A quart is 946 cc, or approximatley 11% Too Much. Good luck, I hope the clutch stops slipping.
    Jim Douglas '00 K1200RS >135,000 miles my primary bike again,
    Gone: '09 K1300S sold @ 22k mi, '93 K1100RS traded @ 78k mi, '85 K100RS sold @ 44k mi
    '06 Kaw 650R track bike sold
    http://www.seagullbb.com/

  13. #13
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 58058D View Post
    As Paul noted, 850 cc is the correct amount. It has been so long since I had my 1100, I don't recall if the owner's manual mentions using the tool to measure or not. BUT, I never used a measuring tool on any of my K bikes other than the measure of 850cc in a container. A quart is 946 cc, or approximately 11% Too Much. Good luck, I hope the clutch stops slipping.
    Yes my manual told me. I used my shock tool for one. the 1100 is an inch shorter than the 100. I marked mine like it was in the manual and I was wrong. I am thinking that the seal was due to go anyway. This bike sat for 2 years with no action at all. It had 57K when I got it 4500 miles ago in July.

  14. #14
    3 Red Bricks
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    As you have discovered, K1100s did not come with a shock tool for checking tranny levels. They came with a dipstick: 71 11 2 316 195 DIPSTICK $5.70



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  15. #15
    Registered User leftturn's Avatar
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    It's in my tool kit..rub it in..

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