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Thread: Oil Filter Cover Screw Stripped 93 K75S Oil Pan too?

  1. #1
    Registered User TechPoet's Avatar
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    Oil Filter Cover Screw Stripped 93 K75S Oil Pan too?

    arrrgghhh #$%^&*()!

    Should I just assume that the block (oil pan) is wacked now and I need to tap and re-thread?

    Backstory:
    As I was putting in one of the three filter cover screws ( AS Cycles Fiche )
    I felt that tug of resistance ("dude, something's wrong here")
    I backed it up a bit and then powered through ("hmm... what was that? maybe it's ok")
    But as I tightened it, a thread stripped (on the screw) and it spun.
    I took it (stripped screw) out
    Put in one of the good ones, very carefully, and did not crank it, just hand tight (or less even)
    I will wait until I have a few extras before I really crank it

    Also, do ya'll use a torque wrench (to 7ft lb) on these or just go a little over hand tight with a socket wrench?

  2. #2
    Mars needs women! 35634's Avatar
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    I would just re tap it for a larger size. I never used a torque wrench on them but just snug it up with the little hex key that comes in the toolkit. Better yet, put the long end in the bolt and twist it using the short end. If the cover leaks check the o-ring for a flat spot, replace if necessary.
    1987 K75S
    Original litter
    Original owner
    2012 Ural Gear Up

  3. #3
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    Smile

    What you might be able to do is put a stud in this hole. There are probably a few good threads further up inside the threaded hole. Find a bolt a couple inches long and carefully screw it in and out of the hole to clean the threads. I believe these are blind holes so the bolt should screw in so far and then get tight if there are any good threads. Hold the filter cover up to the bolt and see if there would be enough threads to make a stud with enough to screw on a nut with flat washer. If so, take out the bolt, saw off the threads, put 2 nuts on 1 end locked tight together, put a little Loc-tite on the end and screw it into the pan, remove the nuts and you are ready to go. Under the engine, it will never be seen. I think these are a 6MM x1.0 bolt. What makes an excellent stud if you can find them is a long Allen head set screw. I have used them on American threads . They are a good grade of steel and the allen head makes them easy to install without cutting off anything. Good Luck!

    1987 K75C
    1981 Yamaha XJ550 Seca
    1980 Yamaha XT500
    1972 Yamaha DT250
    1965 Yamaha YA6

  4. #4
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    Stripped screw

    If you can not use a longer bolt, then look into using a Heli-coil thread inserts, you can maintain the same size bolt in the filter cover.

  5. #5
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Let me make a general comment about the filter cover plate and oil pan on these models. The joint is sealed with an O ring with a cross section slightly larger than the depth of the groove in the cover plate. As the screws are tightened the O ring is compressed and the cover plate goes metal-to-metal with the oil pan.

    Once that has happened the screws only need to be snug enough to hold themselves in so they don't fall out. Further tightening does not affect the seal of the O ring and can only serve to distort metal and break things.

    A thread repair insert such as a Helicoil will work fine in this application but I would personally be inclined to enlarge, re-tap, and use the next size larger capscrew.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

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