07 R1200 GS Adventure: Fuel Leak at Quick Disconnect!
Discovered this weekend that I had a fuel leak on the left upper side of the tank at the Quick Disconnect on my 07 R1200GSA. Appears to be some cracking around that area. Did not discover the issue until I got a fuel warning light and I decided to bring the GSA home directly. I noticed the leaking fuel after placing it on its side stand. Very scary as the fuel was leaking (steady stream) directly onto a hot exhaust pipe. Quickly turned a water hose on the pipe to cool down and got out the fire extinguisher as a precaution. Fortunately, no fire. I noticed that this has been an issue for others as well, but no recall for this problem has been issued by BMW. The GSA is in the shop for repair and it looks like it is an expensive fix. Does not make me happy. Glad I was not on a long distance ride or out in the desert trails. Anyone else having this problems?
Doesn't have to be an expensive repair if it the usual source of cracks.
Edit: as for fuel leaking onto hot headers. I think BMW put the fuel overflow tube on my R80RT so it leaked onto the hot collector on purpose. I remember people guessing that it was done that way so the fuel would vaporize and be blown away in the breeze instead of forming a puddle on the ground.
The question is 'who hasn't had that problem'?
I'm one of the few.
However, most do a do it yourself fix that is a lot cheaper. They put the metal quick disconnections, and 10ovrs clamp, and, if leaks have started, some epoxy, and not just JBWeld, tho' some do use that.
If no leaks have started, they can use 10ovrs clamp as sold by beemerboneyard.
I suppose if you are in there, you may as well do the whole thing at once.
I suppose if the dealer does it for you, it will be all new parts, very expensive, and hopefully you will get a new stock tank, with the metal reinforcement.
I believe it would still be advisable to put on the metal quick disconnects.
If it is leaking from a crack in the bung it can be repaired ,,I used JB weld on my pump and I have over 45K miles on the repair,,,No Leaks,,, Install clamp,,Coat inside female pump treads and male treads on the quick release fitting with JB weld,,Screw in fitting as tight as you can by hand,,Don"t wipe of Excess coming out of the top,, Tighten clamp,( just snug it up ) let dry for 24 hours ,,If you don't coat the inside treads on the pump it may leak,,Plug in you fuel line and ride,,,,Have done this repair on over 20 bike and not one has leaked,,,
You need to file this episode with NHTSA- there is a docket on BMW bike fuel system issues.
These problems are very simply the stupidity of BMW engineers. You can't use the plastic they selected in a wedge type pipe fitting and not expect cracking over time- the design is moronic.
Even the fix wasn't designed by BMW but instead independently by two guys in the US, then adopted by BMW for the current part.
But they've made no effort at all to deal with machines in the marketplace with the, literally, half dozen assorted defects in the fuel containment and delivery system on the hexhead, which has to qualify as the worst fuel system in motorcycle history as far as safety and reliability goes.
Defects known include
1) A bad fpc - thousands of these have failed. BMW now supplies a better part (recognized by its black coating) but never addressed all the bad ones out there waiting to fail.
2) Improper design of the fuel pump well- not self draining so it accumulates water from washing or rain riding that leads to fpc failure
3) Improper positioning of the fpc well at the low point of the flange during factory assembly. Said to be different now but I haven't personally seen it. Also contributes to water accumulation in the well.
4) An incorrect "gasket" design for the fpc that is improperly fastened. The so-called gasket is a sliding side fit rather than a compression gasket, which would take 3 screws instead of the 2 used. Also allows water into the well under the fpc to corrode fuel pump connections.
5) Incorrect assembly- no grease or sealant was used at factory assembly to help the above inadequate design keep water out of the fpc well where it corrodes fuel pump connections
6) Wrong plastic for female flange- the direct cause of the splitting so often reported. Fix invented by US riders now used by factory.
But they're still using the wrong plastic and a wedge thread!
7) QD Fuel Line Fitting originally were fragile plastic male fittings which were easily damaged and sometimes cracked in use. The factory now offers metal ones and riders often change them for safety reasons. Factory has never addressed bikes in the marketplace.
Then there is the issue of fuel strips with no fix- but at least that's not a safety issue as long as you use the trip meter and fuel by mileage so you don't run out in high speed traffic- where the Rs engine braking will definitely get your attention quickly.
Anybody who tours should be carrying at least a bypass cable for the fpc or know how and be prepared to make one.
Fixing a cracked flange roadside is implausible unless you happen to be carrying a suitable epoxy and the metal ring- and are prepared to wait overnight for the stuff to cure. Better to do it prophylatically as many, including me, have chosen. If done prior to cracking, the fixes seem to be sufficient and permanent according to reports.
Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions.
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