Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: installation of quick disconnects

  1. #1
    aapasquale
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Sag Harbor, New York
    Posts
    130

    installation of quick disconnects

    I ordered from Beemer Boneyard a set of plated brass disconnects for the fuel lines on my 1994 R1100RS. My question is can these be installed in either direction? Is the fuel flow stopped in either direction (from both ends) or just one way when disconnected? The reason I ask is because in the past I have screwed up the fuel line connections a couple of times and I want to orient the disconnects opposite each other so there is not that possibility in the future.
    signed: Beemer Bonehead

  2. #2
    It is what it is. Bud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Long gone
    Posts
    6,493
    Stopped both ways. That allows you to put one male and one female on the tank side, eliminating the possibility of connecting them up incorrectly.
    I used to post here, but now I don't.

  3. #3
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    1,287
    If you want them to be the same as the 1150 put a male QD on the high pressure tank hose and a female on the return tank hose.
    RB

  4. #4
    Registered User Duff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Oxford, Connecticut
    Posts
    4
    I'm about to embark on the same modification on my '04 R1150RT but the removal of the stock disconnects has me a little puzzled. How does one go about removing them?

    Thanks,
    Jeff

  5. #5
    aapasquale
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Sag Harbor, New York
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by sibud View Post
    Stopped both ways. That allows you to put one male and one female on the tank side, eliminating the possibility of connecting them up incorrectly.
    thank you Sibud! That was exactly what I needed to know. Tony (aka: Beemer Bonehead)

  6. #6
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    "Big Bend" TX
    Posts
    8,652
    Quote Originally Posted by Duff View Post
    I'm about to embark on the same modification on my '04 R1150RT but the removal of the stock disconnects has me a little puzzled. How does one go about removing them?

    Thanks,
    Jeff
    The original clamps are very hard stainless steel. They are hard to cut. I use pliers and do a wiggle until I can insert a small awl between the clamp and hose, and then wiggle some more to stretch the clamp a bit open.

    Actually, since your hoses are approximately 10 years old, I would get a bit of new fuel injection hose and go through the effort at the connections at the tank. Then I would use new hose at least from the tank to the disconnects, and the little stubs to the fuel manifold too.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

  7. #7
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    1,964
    For a belt and suspenders approach if you have room to do so space the connectors apart from each other a bit as well. Then you can't miss!

    I've had the 5/16" NLA quick brass disconnects from Small Parts on my 1100RT for a couple of seasons now and really like them. They only shut the female end which allows me to drain the tank easily. I do have a new set of Beemer Boneyard ones waiting in the wings but when I realized I needed a 3rd one to allow tank draining I hesitated to use them. That's the only downside for me. Other than that they are extremely well made compared to the plastic ones.

    It's been suggested that the plastic OEM disconnects should be recalled due to the fire hazard they might pose. I tend to agree because over time it seems a lot of them have failed.

    We had a guy pull into the Nakusp rally pumping fuel out all over his LT. Took all of two minutes to diagnose what was happening. We pushed his bike up onto a concrete campsite pad right next to Paul Glaves campsite and let nature take it's course.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  8. #8
    Registered User Duff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Oxford, Connecticut
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    The original clamps are very hard stainless steel. They are hard to cut. I use pliers and do a wiggle until I can insert a small awl between the clamp and hose, and then wiggle some more to stretch the clamp a bit open.

    Actually, since your hoses are approximately 10 years old, I would get a bit of new fuel injection hose and go through the effort at the connections at the tank. Then I would use new hose at least from the tank to the disconnects, and the little stubs to the fuel manifold too.
    New hoses...great suggestion! I think I'll take that route.

    Thanks Paul,

    Jeff

  9. #9
    aapasquale
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Sag Harbor, New York
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    The original clamps are very hard stainless steel. They are hard to cut. I use pliers and do a wiggle until I can insert a small awl between the clamp and hose, and then wiggle some more to stretch the clamp a bit open.

    Actually, since your hoses are approximately 10 years old, I would get a bit of new fuel injection hose and go through the effort at the connections at the tank. Then I would use new hose at least from the tank to the disconnects, and the little stubs to the fuel manifold too.
    Hey Paul--since my hoses are almost 20 years old, I'll replace mine as well!

  10. #10
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    1,964
    Dangit you guys are going to talk me into to replace my aged hoses! Anyway, if you do replace them don't forget that you need to get submersible fuel line for the inside of the tank.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  11. #11
    Dee G flymymbz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Central WA
    Posts
    522
    Quote Originally Posted by happy wanderer View Post

    It's been suggested that the plastic OEM disconnects should be recalled due to the fire hazard they might pose. I tend to agree because over time it seems a lot of them have failed.
    Just did the annual maintenance on a friends K1200. Was taking the fairing pieces off and I started smelling fuel. WTH??? I look down at the right side and sure enough: drip, drip, drip. By the time I got the fairing off, it was leaking pretty good. And looking at the stains on the valve cover, it had been leaking for some time.

    Since he needed the bike in two days, I decided to steal one of the QD's off my C. First one snapped as I was disconnecting it. Managed to get the second one off intact. I ordered up the chromed BB ones that afternoon for it. grrrrr.......

    Not a bad idea to replace the line as well, bike will be 10 next year. Yeah! Another winter project!!!
    Too damn many bikes to list

  12. #12
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    1,287
    One thing I'd mention about the metal QDs which I use too, is that they open much more easily, especially with new gaskets. The plastic ones have shrounding around the plunger on the female QDs, which the metal ones lack.

    As a result, it's pretty easy to bump them while doing other things and have them open. Lately, I've been putting the tie wrap to the frame under one of the plungers so that that doesn't happen.
    RB

  13. #13
    aapasquale
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Sag Harbor, New York
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger 04 RT View Post
    One thing I'd mention about the metal QDs which I use too, is that they open much more easily, especially with new gaskets. The plastic ones have shrounding around the plunger on the female QDs, which the metal ones lack.

    As a result, it's pretty easy to bump them while doing other things and have them open. Lately, I've been putting the tie wrap to the frame under one of the plungers so that that doesn't happen.
    RB
    Thanks Roger, I'll do just that!
    Tony

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •