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Thread: How to help 98 R1100RT

  1. #1
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    How to help 98 R1100RT

    Opinions please on best options for a top box (the bigger the better) on this 98 R1100RT.
    Is this an original BMW rack?
    Thanks, spamdepot@cox.net

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  2. #2
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    That is the BMW rack, yes.

    The OEM top case is 33L, and pathetic.

    Givi has a nice selection of top cases in the 46-53L range. I'll be getting one of those for my 2000 R1100RT.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

  3. #3
    RK Ryder
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    Some folks say that a Givi top box just does not go with the lines of your bike, but to my eyes, my two GIVIs work with my K100 and '98 R1100. My 50 litre GIVIs hold two helmets, or other stuff. They are waterproof and have a simple one hand locking/unlocking mechanism.

    I did remove the reflectors, removed the paper underneath them, replaced with silver reflective tape and then re-installed the red reflectors, that now reflect when car headlights hit them.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Paul
    Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
    Treasurer of the Forest City Motorrad Club #159
    Knights of the Roundel #333

  4. #4
    Minnesota Nice! braddog's Avatar
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    I've got a R11RS and fitted a Givi V46 topbox to it last spring. Love it, love it, LOVE IT!

    You'll need to get the proper Givi mounting bracket, then choose the appropriate topcase. They're not cheap, but I have 2 of them; one on my BMW, the other (33 liter) on the wife's 125 Vino.
    -----------------------------------------
    Brad D. - Member #105766
    '77 R100RS - Black Beauty (big pipe, baby!)
    '94 R1100RS - Sylvia

  5. #5
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    Paul - not to hijack, but your pic raised two questions:

    1. Do you find the extra mirrors to be very helpful? I've thought of putting those on, as I prefer that mirror position over the lower one.

    2. What attachment points do you use for securing stuff on the back seat?
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

  6. #6
    RK Ryder
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesInCA View Post
    Paul - not to hijack, but your pic raised two questions:

    1. Do you find the extra mirrors to be very helpful? I've thought of putting those on, as I prefer that mirror position over the lower one.
    Truthfully, they are closer to my eyes than I'd prefer. However with a tent across the back seat, the OEM mirrors become obstructed. That is when I use the extra mirrors, complete with small spot mirrors. They are also very helpful when in hectic freeway traffic, allowing me to not avert my eyes downward to the OEM mirrors.

    Quote Originally Posted by JamesInCA View Post
    2. What attachment points do you use for securing stuff on the back seat?
    I use the the rear vertical bars of the GIVI top box mount and the grab handles for securing the tent bag across the rear seat.

    Hope this helps, James.
    Paul
    Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
    Treasurer of the Forest City Motorrad Club #159
    Knights of the Roundel #333

  7. #7
    It is what it is. Bud's Avatar
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    Not Paul but I have the GS mirrors on my RT and love them.

    Rok Straps for strapping stuff to bike.
    I used to post here, but now I don't.

  8. #8
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    Thanks, Paul and Bud. Very helpful. I'm in hectic freeway traffic 55 miles/day, so that alone would be helpful.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

  9. #9
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    Ok

    I have obtained the bike in question & driven it home to Arizona. Thank You all for your comments.
    I have obtained an E52 Givi box and have it installed.

    I haven't had much luck in learning my way around this forum yet.
    I'm having zero "luck" learning to "search" for the information I'm looking for.

    Help me out here???

    I went into the section for "oilheads".
    I'm searching for information on my most immediate issue: "Starter" problems, Starter circuit, etc.
    The results for the search seem to be all over this place, returning results for all kinds of models not related at all to oil heads or specifically the R1100.
    Any help would be appreciated.

    At any rate, I'm currently waiting for my "Rider's Manual" to arrive. I have none yet so I really don't know how things are supposed to work.

    Primary issue: The engine won't crank with the clutch pulled in in gear. The only time it will crank is when in Neutral with the green light on.
    Also, there seems to be an issue with the neutral switch (in the transmission?) it works, but it's lazy to come on when the bike is cold. After it's up to operating temp, it works well, but when cold it's intermittent. I assume I need to change the switch, perhaps it's fouled with gooey lubricant from sitting in storage or lack of trans oil changes. However, with the failure of the clutch override, it can mean a complete no start when the bike is cold, if one can not get the neutral lamp to come on. Also, without the clutch override working, it's a big problem if I happen to stall it when a stop light turns green......have to fiddle around trying to get the neutral light back on before you can restart. GRRRRRR!
    Last: I was told that it should not start with the side stand down, but it does (providing there is a neutral light showing). Is there a side stand switch?
    Does anyone have a circuit diagram of the starter circuits they can post?
    Thank You, Ibjman in Phoenix!

  10. #10
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    A few things...

    For searching: Click the "Advanced Search" link at the upper right of the page. For specific things like starter issues, type just one or two words in the Keywords box. Just to the right of that, click the drop-down menu and choose "Search Titles Only." (This will usually get you more pertinent results, as long as the word(s) you are searching for are likely to occur in the titles of threads in the forum.)

    Then, under Additional Options, scroll through the "Search in Forum(s)" list and click on Oilheads (assuming you're searching for model-specific information). Then click the "Search Now" button.

    Another technique for searching is to use Google, limiting your search to this site. For example, the following would search for starting problems on this site only: oilhead starting problems site:bmwmoa.org. The nice thing about Google is that you can search for "fuzzy" things like "oilhead starting problems" and Google will apply all its smart text-searching processes to the forums, unlike the forum software, which would return useless results for that search.

    Your starting issues: You have two or three things going on.

    First, your clutch interlock switch is broken. That's the reason you can't start in gear with the clutch pulled in. Very common on these bikes, and on the others where this same switch is used. (There were three of them on my K75.) Part number is 61 31 1 459 569, $35. It's a PITA to replace; mine is dead and I'll need to pull the front fairing off to get at where the wire is routed. If you're daring, you can clip the wire at the clutch lever, twist the two internal wires together, and then it'll start in gear whether or not the clutch is pulled in.

    Second, your neutral switch is going wonky. (BMW calls it an "idle switch.") Apparently they all do eventually. Mine is too, but at least in a less inconvenient way than some. Mine often illuminates the neutral light in first as well. Always, always grab the clutch. Part #61 31 2 306 202, $69, AND you must replace the failed o-ring #23 31 1 341 836 which is probably allowing transmission oil in and killing your switch. This one is even more of a PITA to replace as it's only accessible by removing the rear end. I'll be doing this whenever I get to doing a spline lube.

    Third, your side stand interlock switch is either broken or has been bypassed. You may or may not consider this a problem. There are a number of mods to either disable it entirely, or use a relay to disable it when the bike is in neutral (using that same neutral light).

    Lots of wiring diagrams available online. Try a Google image search for "r1100rt wiring diagram" and you'll get copious results.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

  11. #11
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    One other note ... as you're observing, either the clutch interlock switch or the neutral switch must work (or be shorted) to start the bike. If both fail entirely you will not be able to start.

    In that case, your only immediate option will be to short the clutch interlock switch by cutting into and connecting the wires as I noted above. Some have described peeling back the boot and getting at the conductors to short them without cutting, but I don't see much point in that, and I certainly wouldn't take that kind of time if I had to do it in the field.

    Lastly, learn to love the parts fiche: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...0&rnd=04302013 It will answer many questions. I like Max's for searching, and have that link bookmarked on all my browser toolbars. The one from BMW of Chattanooga (http://www.bmwmcchattanooga.com) is handy in that for each part it shows all the models it fits. That's very useful if, for example, you find, say, an alternator from a K1100 on eBay and want to know if it'll fit your R1100RT. (It will.)

    Oh, and get a Clymer's manual.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

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