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Thread: Questions about 96 R1000R driveshaft/swingarm/final drive reassembly & lube

  1. #1
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    Question Questions about 96 R1000R driveshaft/swingarm/final drive reassembly & lube

    I am reassembling the driveshaft/swingarm/final drive on a 96 R1100R following a driveshaft failure. I have the JL Paralever bushings (previously installed) instead of the needle bearings on the final-drive pivot point.
    I need help with a few questions:

    1) When assembling the two left-side pivot pins, the Clymer manual indicates that you need to use a special BMW tool or torque converter (neither of which I have or could find easily & cheaply) on the 30mm locknut, in order to be able to hold the adjust pivot pins stationary while torquing the locknut. However some online procedures say that is not necessary, that you can let the red loctite harden first on the adjust pin, before torquing the locknut. The latter sounds very reasonable - any opinions ?

    2) Should I use red loctite on the 2 locknuts as well ? Clymer seems to say no, but some online posts say yes...

    3) Clymer says use Kluberplex BEM 34-132 (which I have) on the transmission output shaft and front driveshaft splines, and Permatex anti-seize (which I also have) on the final drive/rear drive shaft splines assembly. However many posts seems to advocate Honda Moly 60 (which I also have) on everything ! I'm confused about what is truly best.... ?? Right now I am planning to do as Clymer indicates. I am planning to use Moly 60 only on the JL paralever bushings....

    4) Do I need to lubricate the universal joint bearings ? I realize they are sealed...but there seems to be lube on them right now...

    5) Same question for the swingarm pivot bearings ?

    6) Do I need to lubricate the 2 bushings that the torque link arm attaches to ?

    7) Generally - where do I need to make sure I lubricate during this entire reassembly ?

    8) Generally - where do I need to make sure I apply blue/red loctite during this entire reassembly ?

  2. #2
    Registered User PAS's Avatar
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    I replaced the failed pivot bearing on my 03 RT this past spring. I used stock bearings. I did not use loctite. The special tool is available very cheaply from England and it ships quickly.
    If your bike has 30MM nuts then this is the tool. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swinging-Arm...60352464286%26

    There is also a controversy about using a moly grease on the oilite bushings (aftermarket pivot bushings). Thats your call. I will add that the Beemershop no longer sells or uses the bushings due to too many failures. I did inquire about them.

    This video may be helpful in it he says BMW told them to NOT use loctite.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI

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    Re: the special tool. It is not needed - just loctite the pin, let it dry for a bit, then loctite and torque the nut. I have done this a bunch of times, and have had no problems over the last 200,000 miles. If you have doubts about whether it will work or not, just put a mark on the swing arm and the pin to show whether the pin moves while putting the nut on.
    The Klub stuff is fine for the splines, but I just use the honda moly on the rear splines. The Neverseize isn't needed since the splines slide back and forth all the time (unless you ride underwater all the time).

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    Hi jchildress:

    I was advised by the lube gurus here not to use Honda moly on the bushings after mine failed in two seasons.
    Apparently moly and bronze don't mix.
    I used SuperLube synthetic with teflon and they are still fine after 2 seasons.

    I don't know what BEM 34-132 is but I use Guard Dog moly on the splines.

    Not much but hope it helps.
    Here is my thread on the bushing failure.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

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    Quote Originally Posted by motorradmike View Post
    Hi jchildress:

    I was advised by the lube gurus here not to use Honda moly on the bushings after mine failed in two seasons.
    Apparently moly and bronze don't mix.
    I used SuperLube synthetic with teflon and they are still fine after 2 seasons.

    I don't know what BEM 34-132 is but I use Guard Dog moly on the splines.

    Not much but hope it helps.
    Here is my thread on the bushing failure.
    Thanks motorradmike,

    Are you saying that you installed 1 set of bushing with Moly and they failed - and a new set with Superlube and they are fine after the same amount of use ?

    FYI BEM is the OEM BMW "motorcycle grease". Label says it contains "Synthetic hydrocarbon, mineral oil, calcium complex soap and organic soap thickener"! Part# 82000419622

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    Quote Originally Posted by PAS View Post
    I replaced the failed pivot bearing on my 03 RT this past spring. I used stock bearings. I did not use loctite. The special tool is available very cheaply from England and it ships quickly.
    If your bike has 30MM nuts then this is the tool. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swinging-Arm...60352464286%26

    There is also a controversy about using a moly grease on the oilite bushings (aftermarket pivot bushings). Thats your call. I will add that the Beemershop no longer sells or uses the bushings due to too many failures. I did inquire about them.

    This video may be helpful in it he says BMW told them to NOT use loctite.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI
    Thanks for the input - I ordered the tool just to have it - might come in handy regardless and it is cheap. Since my bushings seems to be in excellent shape I am enclined to keep them on for now. Only question is what to lube them with...

  7. #7
    Registered User PAS's Avatar
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    My understanding is the moly grease actually plates the metal by its nature and eventually builds up and clogs the pores in the bushing which leads to galling.. I was told the oilite bushing contains oil and is generally used in a oil drip environment.
    Read the thread that motoraddmike posted.

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    Lucky motorradmike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jchildress View Post
    Thanks motorradmike,

    Are you saying that you installed 1 set of bushing with Moly and they failed - and a new set with Superlube and they are fine after the same amount of use ?

    FYI BEM is the OEM BMW "motorcycle grease". Label says it contains "Synthetic hydrocarbon, mineral oil, calcium complex soap and organic soap thickener"! Part# 82000419622

    Yes, the bushings are still tight after 2 seasons with the Superlube.
    I don't know much about grease but "soap base" seems to be very common, I think they use the soap to turn runny oil into thick slimy grease.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

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    Quote Originally Posted by motorradmike View Post
    Yes, the bushings are still tight after 2 seasons with the Superlube.
    I don't know much about grease but "soap base" seems to be very common, I think they use the soap to turn runny oil into thick slimy grease.
    Thanks - Can you confirm the exact description or part# for your SuperLube ? There seems to be a large number of products with similar names.
    Is this the stuff (link below) ?

    http://www.acehardware.com/product/h...-5758517dt.jpg
    Last edited by jchildress; 09-13-2013 at 04:43 AM. Reason: added picture

  10. #10
    Lucky motorradmike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jchildress View Post
    Thanks - Can you confirm the exact description or part# for your SuperLube ? There seems to be a large number of products with similar names.
    Is this the stuff (link below) ?

    http://www.acehardware.com/product/h...-5758517dt.jpg
    That's exactly what I used J.
    You should check post #10 in the other thread. Rod specifies some lubricants that I couldn't easily get here that you may have access to.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

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    Do I need to lube the shoulders of the FRONT pivot pins ? The ones that connect to the front of the swingarm through the transmission case.
    Clymer says NO. Is that correct ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by motorradmike View Post
    That's exactly what I used J.
    You should check post #10 in the other thread. Rod specifies some lubricants that I couldn't easily get here that you may have access to.
    OK - Job is done. I finally used Krytox on the bronze bushings and races, and Permatex antiseize on the rear splines (both rear of driveshaft and final drive). Loctite 270 on the left pivot and right fixed pin threads, as well as on the pin shoulders (keeping the bushings from rotating). Blue loctite on the locknut.
    All looks good. Have not ridden yet because I found that the bolt on my exhaust clamp was completely stripped while removing it - waiting on the replacement part.

    One thing which bothers me is that now that the left bronze bushing is loctited to the pin, the pin cannot be removed without breaking the loctite, which must be difficult... Oh well I guess enough heat while unscrewing will do the trick. Hopefully don't have to worry about this for a while.

    Thanks to all for the input.

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    to break the 270, it needs to get heated to a bit under 300 degs. that's about 2 songs (or one good Allman's jam) on the radio with the paint gun set to high. don't even bother trying to move things until you've softened up that Loctite.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  14. #14
    Registered User PAS's Avatar
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    The "loctite use" is somewhat amusing to me. I didnt use it when I replaced my pivots bearings and the fasteners havent moved.

    How many critical fasteners come loctited on the oilheads?

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