Anyone keep the bean can + ignition module installed when changing to EnduraSpark?
Greetings all, new MOA member and 1982 R100RS owner. 59K miles, looks to have been garaged and well maintained. Known maintenance includes full fluid changes, rear caliper rebuild, clutch and rear spline lube, rear main seal replacement, and neutral switch replacement. I am new to airheads but not to mechanics and wrenching. Lots of reading under my belt but not a lot of saddle time...yet. Here's a picture of the bike.
I'm prepping for a 2500 mile ride in Sep, which may be a tall order given how unknown the bike is to me. I've pulled the heads and it looks like they were converted at some point in the past, no apparent valve seat damage or recession. I'll have to monitor the valve gap closely as I ride to be sure. I also have a new clutch and throttle cable on order (throttle is a bit sticky), as well as some fork gators and misc pieces.
I've done a lot of reading about the aftermarket ignition and charging upgrades for these bikes. I don't think I'll need increased charging capacity, but am interested in maximum reliability. Initially, one of the dual hall sensor cam driven ignition options seemed like the best choice, but now I'm leaning toward EnduraSpark plus a new rotor and diode board. This is based on the understanding that the most common failures are the rotor, bean can hall sensor, and diode board (I have the non vented front cover).
Because EnduraSpark is crank mounted and small, it seems to me I could keep the bean can and original ignition module installed but unplugged, and in the event of a failure, switch back over to the original system. In addition, if I keep my original working diode board and rotor, I may have double of almost every charging/ignition component that can fail.
Has anyone done something similar? Any issues with leaving the bean can connected but unpowered in this fashion?