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Thread: 2007 R1200RT-P: rocker arm removal, help please

  1. #1
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    2007 R1200RT-P: rocker arm removal, help please

    I screwed up. I misread something about torquing the valve adjusters post-adjustment, and realized I had overtorqued 1-2 of the nut/bolts.
    I was fortunate that my local dealer had a pair of each in stock, and I talked to a tech about what I needed to drop to get the bolt replaced since it threads on from the inside.
    So I am replacing parts #2 and #3.

    One challenge I am having is getting the part shown as #4 out. It has a little up/down and side/side play but not much, and it's not clear to me how it comes out.
    Help appreciated!Screen Shot 2013-07-24 at 10.40.16 AM.png
    2007 R1200RT-P

  2. #2
    Cam Killer marchyman's Avatar
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    The RepROM says:

    • Mark rocker arms (4), corresponding rocker-arm shafts (5) and pushrods (6) so that they can be reinstalled in their original positions: do not mix up the individual parts.
    • Slip a pin of the correct size into the bore (arrow) of rocker-arm shaft (5) and use it as a lever to work the shaft back and forth and ease it off the bearing.
    • Remove rocker arm (4).


    I've never done that job and don't know how easy/hard it is to do.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
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    Me either. I don't need to get all of it off, just the right side. Still, marking sounds like a good idea, and I'm getting more and more anxious about doing this.
    2007 R1200RT-P

  4. #4
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    With picture. I need to replace the bolts on the right side valve adjusters (intake side I believe).
    Removed the 3 torx and one 15mm nut. Hoping I don't need to mess with the lower nut/bolt that sticks out more, but I think it's blocking the pin from being able to come out.IMG_5014.jpg
    2007 R1200RT-P

  5. #5
    drgnhtr
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    Stop!!!

    1. Do you have a shop manual? If you don't stop what your doing and go get one. The entire process is explained on page 2-21 in the Haynes manual.

    2. The shaft your trying to remove is held in by the two screws that go through the odd shaped flat spring/wash that are other side.

    3. Good luck.

  6. #6
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    Unfortunately, no, I don't have a shop manual yet.
    Yeah, I already put out a couple of feelers for help.
    Wondering when I will ever get to ride this thing.
    Searching for reprom now...

    BTW, you guys are awesome, thanks for all the advice. I'm not a total noob, just completely new to this model.
    If my dealer wasn't backed up 2-3 weeks I'd think about just trucking it over there as it sits.
    Last edited by danix; 07-25-2013 at 02:16 AM.
    2007 R1200RT-P

  7. #7
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    Running into dealership shop delays during prime riding season is normal especially with the limited number of dealers- but perhaps you have a good indie shop in your area that your local club guys can tell you about.
    Even in places (like where I live in NC) where 12 mth riding is simple and comfortable, it seems many riders don't use their bikes much except in shirt sleeve or close to it weather. Its one more reason that many of us do our own work.

    The RepROM is the factory DVD (runs on Microsoft but not Apple OS) repair manual. It is complete and authoritative BUT written with the assumption that the reader has all the skills of a pro mechanic- so does not go into basics of HOW to do many things (generally only those where another approach might get you into trouble). You can load it onto a hard drive and carry it with you on the road (mine is on my travel netbook). Can be bought from dealerships for a bit over $100 and pirate copies can be located for less. The RepROM is organized with a number system like the BMW parts fiche so makes navigating between the two easier. Some prefer the less expensive Haynes which is written more for DIY types. The RepROM also calls out BMW tools recommended or needed for various jobs- many of these can be improvised or substituted.

  8. #8
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    Coming from the VW/Audi world, I'm used to the Bentley online manuals, Reprom seems pretty similar if not better.

    An unnamed helpful person was able to send me a PDF of the relevant section. I'm happy to report that the engine is reassembled and seems to run fine (as long as I was willing to let it run for at 1am without risking the wrath of my family).

    Realized that I'm missing a large washer on one of the gas tank mounts (it was not there on removal) so off to the dealer again when they open, then I am hoping to have it on the road today.

    Reprom says I will have to retorque headbolts again within 600 miles. Do folks have a favorite torque wrench? The Harbor Freight stuff is not cutting it for me, especially since the 3/8" doesn't have nm on the scale. Something digital would be ideal.
    2007 R1200RT-P

  9. #9
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danix View Post
    Coming from the VW/Audi world, I'm used to the Bentley online manuals, Reprom seems pretty similar if not better.

    An unnamed helpful person was able to send me a PDF of the relevant section. I'm happy to report that the engine is reassembled and seems to run fine (as long as I was willing to let it run for at 1am without risking the wrath of my family).

    Realized that I'm missing a large washer on one of the gas tank mounts (it was not there on removal) so off to the dealer again when they open, then I am hoping to have it on the road today.

    Reprom says I will have to retorque headbolts again within 600 miles. Do folks have a favorite torque wrench? The Harbor Freight stuff is not cutting it for me, especially since the 3/8" doesn't have nm on the scale. Something digital would be ideal.
    One comment - please do not make mention of copies of copyrighted materials, or illegal sources of same.. that's the sort of thing that gets the copyright holders miffed and we're likely to get nasty letters.

    I love my Sears Digital. It's as good (or better) then the Snap-On one (which is known for eating batteries). Does Nm, lb/ft, lb/in.. and works nicely as a converter for the values by simply toggling the display between them. It beeps and buzzes when you get to the desired torque, and it displays the actual torque achieved on the digital display for about 10 seconds after use (bet you tend to be a tiny bit high.. it's hard not to be..)

    I found mine used (looked new in the case) on Ebay for around $100, new I believe they are in the $300 range.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  10. #10
    Cam Killer marchyman's Avatar
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    A clicker will do the job and can be found for < $100. Spend more and you can get one of the fancy electronic versions with lights and buzzers.

    One torque wrench may not enough, but something in the 10-100 ft-lbf range (15-150 N-m) will do most of the stuff that needs doing.

  11. #11
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    I'm pretty sure printing out pages is allowed under the copyright - I certainly don't plan on stealing it, and in fact just ordered a copy at the dealer this morning.
    I totally understand what you're saying though and am not encouraging misuse of materials.

    I have a couple of clickers but they are the cheap Harbor Freight versions and don't do nm, plus I don't trust them all that much.
    I just ordered this one from Amazon:
    http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM601.../dp/B004VYUQI2

    Will report back on quality once it arrives.

    Meanwhile, I was able to squeeze into the local dealer today for a throttle sync, hoping this solves the shudder on deceleration that I noticed this morning.
    2007 R1200RT-P

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