Results 1 to 15 of 50

Thread: 2010 (DOHC) R1200GS Engine Vibration

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Registered User strmboui05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    16

    Angry 2010 (DOHC) R1200GS Engine Vibration

    I am writing in regards to a problem I am having with my 2010 BMW R1200GS. Have any of you experienced a high-mid frequency vibration isolated to the engine with a loss of power starting at 3700 up to 8000 RPM?

    The base line is an engine that has the throttle bodies sync, valves adjusted and reprogrammed engine control unit by the dealer. This bike was very smooth through this revolution range up to the 24 K service. Now both hands and feet become numb due to the engine vibration that was not there prior to 24K. This bike did have a recall performed for the camshaft sensor reductor replacement.

    The local dealers are stumped and their only answer is keep riding it and perhaps it will get better. I would appreciate any help/advice to get the bike to run as it use to prior to the 24K service.

    Right now I have two options, ride it like it is or sell it!

    Thanks
    rac

  2. #2
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Spring Lake NJ, USA
    Posts
    7,748
    Hi Rac,

    This sort of screams ignition problem to me.. either a faulty plug, or a bad or not-fully seated coil. Sounds like the spark is failing at high RPMs, which is a sign of this sort of problem.

    Sounds like the dealer's mechanics are simply praying that the diagnostics computer will tell them what the problem is. This is a real problem with many mechanics now - they don't have the experience, or knowledge of how things REALLY work to diagnose a problem themselves, especially if it's electrical. They rely on the computer to tell them what to "replace".. in this case, AFAIK, the BMS-KP does not report engine misfires, which would tell you what plug/coil is causing the problem.

    Has the dealer tried replacing the new plugs they installed at the 24,000 mile service (the camhead spec's new plugs every 12,000 miles - there is an ongoing discussion of this in another thread I believe..) And it's not hard to not quite seat the coils fully, so that's worth checking (and very easy to check.)

    "perhaps it will get better" would have me looking for a new dealership posthaste and pronto.. clueless dolts are the words that comes to mind.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    2,127
    I'd add to Don's comment the fact that its falrly simple to damage a wire to stick coil connection by ham handed pulling though a dealer mechanic ought to know better and avoid it. And I agree that higher rpm misfires most often have an ignition cause. Anything that produces a weak spark as a result could be the reason.

    Another possible (but again a mechanic error) is failure to get the plug seals on right and the resulting oil leak onto the insulator causing a weak spark- though if the leak is of any significant amount, soner or later you should see it around the plug. Any decent dealer mechanic shouldn't make this error- the seals are pretty forgiving if installed correctly.

    Note that the bike computers don't show codes related to weak stick coils and sparks for many of the possible failure modes. So hooking it to dealer computer or GS-911 will show exactly nothing- which is why you need a real mechanic to troubleshoot this type of problem.

    Maybe a good indie shop in your area if all your dealership has is parts swappers?? Or maybe you need to make a specific request that they put their best guy on this one. If they have multiple mechanics perhaps there is one who is the electrical or ignition guru.

    This one of those cases that illustrates why the best mechanics are underpaid for their knowledge and skill.

  4. #4
    Registered User strmboui05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    16

    Unhappy 2010 (DOHC) R1200GS Engine Vibration

    Thanks All for your help on this problem. I have experienced twice a cut-out or misfire when accelerating in the higher RPM range (3700-8000). Perhaps this is problem you have described that it may be the stick-coils. I am going to examine the sparkplugs and coil connectors for dirt/carbon burns and clean and replace (SPs). However, how do you test a stick-coil and to what specification? Aregular coil I can test with load using an old SUN machine, but a stick-coil, I'm clueless. Is this a BMW "Plug &Play" technique utilizing a new and known "good" stick-coil"?

    I am looking forward to your recommendations.

    Thanks,
    RAC

  5. #5
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Spring Lake NJ, USA
    Posts
    7,748
    Quote Originally Posted by strmboui05 View Post
    Thanks All for your help on this problem. I have experienced twice a cut-out or misfire when accelerating in the higher RPM range (3700-8000). Perhaps this is problem you have described that it may be the stick-coils. I am going to examine the sparkplugs and coil connectors for dirt/carbon burns and clean and replace (SPs). However, how do you test a stick-coil and to what specification? Aregular coil I can test with load using an old SUN machine, but a stick-coil, I'm clueless. Is this a BMW "Plug &Play" technique utilizing a new and known "good" stick-coil"?

    I am looking forward to your recommendations.

    Thanks,
    RAC
    That's pretty much BMWs technique - replace and if it gets better - that ones bad..

    As an alternative - you could try unplugging coils, one at a time. You can unplug the primary input to the coil right at the coil. It's a be very careful - the parts are delicate and easy to break.. there is a little tab you have to lift up and then use your thumbnails to wedge the connector out.

    Do it one at a time. The one that doesn't make things worse is the bad one.

    I'm working a bit with Stephen at HexCode - GS911 on trying to diagnose bad coils by cylinder firing quality. That's a work in progress.. so the replace, or disconnect are the current options.

    Good luck and let us know if you come to any conclusions..
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    81
    If it wasn't there before the dealer did the 24K service, and it was there right after the dealer did the 24K service, it seems obvious that the dealer did something that is causing it. (as per Dave's Rule # 1 of mechanical repair - "if something is wrong...that wasn't wrong before...look where you last worked...because you probably screwed something up...)

    Why was the engine re-programmed??

    What was the camshaft sensor reductor replacement??...as you know, the camshaft is a rotating part...did they screw something up doing that??

    I would probably ask the dealer to put everything back the way it was, and look where they last worked.

    Good luck,

    Dave McDougall
    2011 BMW R1200GS

  7. #7
    Registered User strmboui05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    16

    Latest Update to Cam head engine vibration problem

    Quote Originally Posted by strmboui05 View Post
    I am writing in regards to a problem I am having with my 2010 BMW R1200GS. Have any of you experienced a high-mid frequency vibration isolated to the engine with a loss of power starting at 3700 up to 8000 RPM?

    The base line is an engine that has the throttle bodies sync, valves adjusted and reprogrammed engine control unit by the dealer. This bike was very smooth through this revolution range up to the 24 K service. Now both hands and feet become numb due to the engine vibration that was not there prior to 24K. This bike did have a recall performed for the camshaft sensor reductor replacement.

    The local dealers are stumped and their only answer is keep riding it and perhaps it will get better. I would appreciate any help/advice to get the bike to run as it use to prior to the 24K service.

    Right now I have two options, ride it like it is or sell it!

    Thanks
    rac
    Just another update in the Cam Head Sage of Engine vibration:

    First I want to say thanks to all of you for your support, ideas and suggestions. Just wanted you all to know I appreciate your time in effort to solve this BMW problem. Thanks! rac

    Pulled the the valve covers and checked all valves. Each valve right in tolerance, couldn't go up or down (.05mm) on any valve to get closer to middle range. Did another re-sync of TBs with GS911 and Motion Pro SynchPRO Carb Tuner and got the vibration to move to start around 43-45K and up through the RPM range. This was at the idle range 0f 1100-1800 rpm range.

    I am completely stumped! Taking the bike to different dealer here in Colorado and see if they can break the code! I will give you a complete report after diagnosis and fix!

    rac

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    41
    When were your plugs chsnged last... I just changed all 4 on my 2012, and it made a big difference in the smoothness of the engine... both at idle and running...

    Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Registered User strmboui05's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    16

    Unhappy Sparkplug change

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffkyle View Post
    When were your plugs chsnged last... I just changed all 4 on my 2012, and it made a big difference in the smoothness of the engine... both at idle and running...

    Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
    I changed all when I did the last TB-Sync, no change.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •