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Thread: 2013 R1200RT Shifting problems...

  1. #16
    Registered User wyman.winn's Avatar
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    Thumbs up guess it is me...

    met a new BMW RT owner friend yesterday to have him give his opinion on my "shifting problems"....

    Will rode my RT, i rode his, over Harris Grade Road near Lompoc, CA (lots of opportunity to shift both up and down)....his opinion...."shifts smoother than mine"....and i thought his RT shifted as smooth as butter....

    oh well.....thanks for humoring and old guy...

    and thanks to Will for showing me i am prolly just a putz....LOL

    wyman
    2013 R1200RT - Sassy - Fluid Grey Metallic
    2002 V-Strom DL1000 - sold
    2008 KLR650 - sold

  2. #17
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    LOL wyman! That's a great post. Glad it's all good.

    Cheers!

  3. #18
    Registered User natrab's Avatar
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    Yeah, BMW's shift "clunky." Mine has almost 80k and it still makes a big clunk dropping into first. Sometimes it won't go into first right off the bat from neutral, so you have to let the clutch out ever so slightly until you feel it drop in. Once into second it becomes a lot more smooth if you preload the shifter and then upshift without using the clutch.
    Nate R
    2013 R1200RT 90th - "Tyr" - Purchased 12/13/2013 brand new!
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  4. #19
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    I am sure that I have read that as the clutch wears, the fluid level will rise in the reservoir.

    If the initial clutch fluid level is incorrect, the fluid will rise too much, to the point that the clutch will not be able to operate fully, causing shifting problems.

    The solution is to remove some fluid and ensure that the fluid level is proper.

  5. #20
    Registered User wyman.winn's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by 141987 View Post
    I am sure that I have read that as the clutch wears, the fluid level will rise in the reservoir.

    If the initial clutch fluid level is incorrect, the fluid will rise too much, to the point that the clutch will not be able to operate fully, causing shifting problems.

    The solution is to remove some fluid and ensure that the fluid level is proper.
    yup, my clutch reservoir was quite full...actually very close to the top with the cover/expansive gasket removed....i removed just enough "blue blood" to get the level to the "max" line....

    actually no help on the "problem"....the problem is the nut between the handle bars....LOL

    wyman
    2013 R1200RT - Sassy - Fluid Grey Metallic
    2002 V-Strom DL1000 - sold
    2008 KLR650 - sold

  6. #21
    Riding where it's hot! AZ-J's Avatar
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    Go back to the service department and see the service manager. He or she will set you up with their tranny specialist.
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  7. #22
    Registered User wyman.winn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ-J View Post
    Go back to the service department and see the service manager. He or she will set you up with their tranny specialist.
    guess you have not been reading the thread.....it appears it is the operator, NOT the RT................

    wyman
    2013 R1200RT - Sassy - Fluid Grey Metallic
    2002 V-Strom DL1000 - sold
    2008 KLR650 - sold

  8. #23
    Insatiable Cruiser rtwiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by natrab View Post
    Yeah, BMW's shift "clunky." Mine has almost 80k and it still makes a big clunk dropping into first. Sometimes it won't go into first right off the bat from neutral, so you have to let the clutch out ever so slightly until you feel it drop in. Once into second it becomes a lot more smooth if you preload the shifter and then upshift without using the clutch.
    natrab:

    I went to a tech session about these transmissions when i first got my '05 R12RT. They say there is a drag device or something to slow the gears faster so you can upshift faster than with the older bikes. This is a sport-bike trick that some of BMW's competitors use too. When you sit still with the clutch in, this gear cluster stops and when you try to engage 1st, it's luck of the draw whether it stops lined up with the 1st gear cog or not. The solution is to just let the clutch out in neutral for half a sec, pull it in and immediately change to 1st.

    Doing it the way you're doing it can cause some surprises if you get it wrong. This way, it's always gentle on the gears and the bike can't lurch forward or stall. You just need to get that thing spinning. It doesn't stay spinning long, so you need to shift as soon as you pull that clutch back in.

    Hope this helps.

    My '05 is the 3rd RT I've owned. It's by far the best shifting of the 3, but it does have that trait where it won't shift to 1st after a complete stop sometimes.

  9. #24
    Insatiable Cruiser rtwiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyman.winn View Post
    yup, my clutch reservoir was quite full...actually very close to the top with the cover/expansive gasket removed....i removed just enough "blue blood" to get the level to the "max" line....

    actually no help on the "problem"....the problem is the nut between the handle bars....LOL

    wyman
    Wyman:

    Don't feel bad. BMWs are not completely intuitive, especially when new. It takes a while to know if something is "wrong" or if it's "OK". Even checking oil can be challenging. I still miss 2nd gear sometimes on my bike after 78K miles. Sometimes I get lazy and don't lift my toe far enough.

    BTW: Clutch fluid level does not go up as the clutch wears...It goes down...but not much. High temps will expand fluid and that will make the level go higher...again, not much. This is why the MAX line on the reservoir isn't at the very top.

    If the new bikes are coming in over-filled, it wouldn't surprise me. If I ever buy a new BMW bike again, I'll check the clutch fluid level. This thread is helpful!

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtwiz View Post
    Wyman:

    Don't feel bad. BMWs are not completely intuitive, especially when new. It takes a while to know if something is "wrong" or if it's "OK". Even checking oil can be challenging. I still miss 2nd gear sometimes on my bike after 78K miles. Sometimes I get lazy and don't lift my toe far enough.

    BTW: Clutch fluid level does not go up as the clutch wears...It goes down...but not much. High temps will expand fluid and that will make the level go higher...again, not much. This is why the MAX line on the reservoir isn't at the very top.

    If the new bikes are coming in over-filled, it wouldn't surprise me. If I ever buy a new BMW bike again, I'll check the clutch fluid level. This thread is helpful!
    I believe you are incorrect - clutch fluid level does go UP as the clutch wears. As the clutch plate wears the pressure plate moves the push rod further "back" pushing the fluid toward the master cylinder increasing the reservoir level.
    '14 R1200RT
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  11. #26
    Insatiable Cruiser rtwiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motodan View Post
    I believe you are incorrect - clutch fluid level does go UP as the clutch wears. As the clutch plate wears the pressure plate moves the push rod further "back" pushing the fluid toward the master cylinder increasing the reservoir level.
    ...dan:

    In my head, I was seeing the piston pushing outward farther as the clutch wears. You are correct.

    Doh!


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