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Thread: Preping 1973 R75/5 for Rally

  1. #1
    Registered User kwb210's Avatar
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    Preping 1973 R75/5 for Rally

    My usual ride is a 1977 R100/7, a bike very dear to me! However, for the upcoming BMW Rally in Salem I will be riding a 1973 R75/5 with 53,000 miles. My son is coming from Spain and riding my 1971 R75/5, a bike that has been restored and is really a sweet ride and ready to handle many trouble free miles. My 1973 came to me last year, and while the prior owner took good care of her, she was not ridden much since 1998. In fact she had new tires from 1998 with maybe 500-750 miles on them. I have ridden her about 500 miles and she runs very well. The distance traveled will be in the area of 1,000 to 1,500 miles, we won't be traveling in a straight line down the interstate! I installed new Avon Road Rider and new tubes, the AM26. So tires are good. I cleaned and lubed the final drive splines, which, to my relief have a bare minimum of wear. I am pulling the carbs to check out the bowls for any junk, I will replace the cylinder to carb rubbers since they show some cracks, new plugs and of course check the timing and a valve adjustment. I probably won't do the fork oil...but I am open to comments on that. I figure the bottom bumpers will probably be mushed, however, the forks function just fine. Steering head bearings feel nice and smooth. All the cables are "new" except for their age. Spark plug wires are real new. I will replace the battery from another bike I have just to avoid a failure on a battery of an unknown age. I cleaned out the fuel tank and petcocks, very little debris in there. The pushrod tubes are dry, so far...they are old. However, I really don't want to get into the usual do everything you can think of mode like I would if it were winter and I had months to work on her. Then this winter I will do a output shaft spline lube and maybe pushrod seals just because of their age and a full fork service. After the Rally she will be driven to club events or a vintage night ride, no touring. Anyone think of something I am simply missing?
    kurt
    1977 R100/7 1971.1972.1972.1973 R75/5
    1974 R90/6 multiple boxes
    Airhead Revival
    "Objects in the mirror appear to be losing" unk

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    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    How confident are you in the charging system? Have you checked the charge voltage at the battery with the engine running above 3K RPM? Hopefully you see something close to 14v.

    You didn't mention wheel bearings and swingarm bearings. It should be easy enough to pull the front bearings (you'll need new seals) to clean and regrease them. A little more difficult on the rear since I believe the right-side bearing is captive. In the recent Airmail, Oak just described a method of flushing the entire bearing area with the bearing in place and then using a pointed attachment to a grease gun, reapplying grease to the captive bearing. As for the swingarm bearings, at one point you could pump grease through the center in the swingarm pin until you heard grease ooze out the back.

    Other than that, sounds like you've done quite a bit to make sure the bike is rideable safely.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
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    Regarding wheel bearings, all on my (/7) could be removed for inspection and repacked, except the rear wheel bearing at the drive spline. Cycleworks.com sells a bearing greaser which will grease that rear wheel bearing at the drive spline without having to remove the bearing. I found the tool is worth the money (unfortunately, there is no photo on the site) : http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?...products_id=48


    Also, IMO, wheel bearing seals last a long time and are not required at every bearing service. I still have the originals (I am pretty certain) and they work just fine. Much like o-rings, if carefully handled they can be reused. However, if I were paying for bearing service and could not inspect the seals, replacing the two front seals and single rear seal would be done at every service. YMMV.
    Stan

    AH# 13238

  4. #4
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    I bought the greasing tool from Cycleworks...it's been around a long time...I remember it from the 1980s. Duane discusses wheel bearings on this page...he also shows what the tool looks like:

    http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/wheel_bearing/
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  5. #5
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    You didn't mention an oil change and filter.

    Air filter change while you have the carbs off. Make sure to synchronize the carbs after reassembly; while the engine is still hot.

    You may want to invest in a new head light bulb and a pack of fuses to take along.

    "New" but old cables.. . they're not too expensive for the /5... I think I'd get a new clutch cable and rig it along side the old one, just in case (an old, old, BMW touring practice).
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  6. #6
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    I believe by following the advice in the previous posts, you'll be good as gold. These bikes are amazingly reliable and repairable if the need arises - there was a recent story in MOA about Matt and Suzanne Parkhouse riding their old Airheads to South America! One issue that occurred on Matt's R75/5 was the chrome headlight ring popped off and destroyed the headlight - maybe putting some tape around the bottom could be cheap insurance but on the other hand, the roads you'll be traveling on should be in a lot better shape than the ones down south.

    Carry your Anonymous book with you and go for it! You're really not traveling that far.
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  7. #7
    Registered User kwb210's Avatar
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    Regarding the oil, I forgot to mention I pulled the oil pan for inspection. Just a bit of thicker oil on the bottom. I will install with new gasket and fill with basic oil, run for 25-50 miles and then do an oil change with Spectro 20w-50 and a BMW filter. I had not even thought of the charging system! Holly cow, what a brain freeze, I am replacing the battery so it should go without saying (in my case without thinking) to test the charging system. I also can't remember if the diode board has metal mounts, it seems like it does. I am installing a new air filter. Any machine that has sat for an extended length of time could be filled with grass/small sticks from a local mouse loking to upgrade the families housing status.
    Thanks so much for quick responses! My Sunday will be occupied with these items and hopefully I can be taking her for a couple of rides the first of the week.
    Best regards,
    kurt
    1977 R100/7 1971.1972.1972.1973 R75/5
    1974 R90/6 multiple boxes
    Airhead Revival
    "Objects in the mirror appear to be losing" unk

  8. #8
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    Don't forget to check out the tool kit - does it have what you need to at least:

    1) remove and replace a spark plug
    2) remove headlight and tail lens to replace bulbs
    3) remove and replace either axel
    4) lever off a tire
    5) at least one wheel has valve cap that will unscrew valve core
    6) tire patches in kit or spare tube
    7) old original tire pump actually works?? (you only need about 12lbs to ride at moderate speed to better air)

    Also:
    Grease the throttle tube teeth and chain
    Grease the lever pivots and cable ends at levers
    Clean and grease the throwout bearing

  9. #9
    Registered User kwb210's Avatar
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    more good ideas!

    I have an extensive tool kit, inluding 18 & 19 tubes, I will be moving from my 1977 R100, but a great reminder. Your comment on greasing the lever pivots and cable ends at levers is spot on for anyone. Just a week ago I was on a short trip and a fellow rider had the clutch cable break right at the pivot, dry and kinking. Lucky I had my spare cable and we were back on the road soon. Over barley therapy that evening in our campsite we discussed how easy it is to forget that simple little job. Thank you for bringing it up. This is a funny job I have taken on, I am so tempted to dig right into every nook and corner of the bike...but wait a minute...I've only got a week and told myself to just keep it light!
    kurt

    Quote Originally Posted by 44006 View Post
    Don't forget to check out the tool kit - does it have what you need to at least:

    1) remove and replace a spark plug
    2) remove headlight and tail lens to replace bulbs
    3) remove and replace either axel
    4) lever off a tire
    5) at least one wheel has valve cap that will unscrew valve core
    6) tire patches in kit or spare tube
    7) old original tire pump actually works?? (you only need about 12lbs to ride at moderate speed to better air)

    Also:
    Grease the throttle tube teeth and chain
    Grease the lever pivots and cable ends at levers
    Clean and grease the throwout bearing
    1977 R100/7 1971.1972.1972.1973 R75/5
    1974 R90/6 multiple boxes
    Airhead Revival
    "Objects in the mirror appear to be losing" unk

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