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Thread: stripped allen head

  1. #1
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    stripped allen head

    96 R1100RT
    While trying to remove one of the two allen head bolt holding on my rear brake rotor, after heating extensively with heat gun, propane torch and acetylene torch and still not being able to remove the bolt the allen head stripped . the other side came out with no heat at all? So now I have to drill it out or leave the same rotor on the bike. It looks like the 4 bolts that hold the wheel on would keep the rotor in place without any bolts. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Woody

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    Outlander Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by woody99 View Post
    96 R1100RT
    While trying to remove one of the two allen head bolt holding on my rear brake rotor, after heating extensively with heat gun, propane torch and acetylene torch and still not being able to remove the bolt the allen head stripped . the other side came out with no heat at all? So now I have to drill it out or leave the same rotor on the bike. It looks like the 4 bolts that hold the wheel on would keep the rotor in place without any bolts. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Woody
    Always easier with a picture but I will have to guess the part where the Allen head fits into stripped out? I frequently drop a nut over it and weld in the center so I can grab it again. I have also chiseled them around in a circular pattern but that's a bit iffy.
    OM
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    Small road corner junkie pffog's Avatar
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    take a next sized up torx bit and use a hammer to drive it in and form a new socket. This has never failed me.
    2010 F800GS Full Ohlins package, '04 R1100S Replika
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    Just me rad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pffog View Post
    take a next sized up torx bit and use a hammer to drive it in and form a new socket. This has never failed me.
    Do this and try no heat. Any low level thread locker was cooked with all that heating you did before, now you are just expanding the fastener.

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    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Yep, great advice.

    Any/all of the comments give you a simple solution.
    1997 R1100RT (Restored Basket Case) , 1981 KZ 440 LTD (Restored Basket Case)
    1986 K75S(the beutch), 1993 K1100RS (blown engine), 1997 Chev Short Box (4x4 with an LT1)
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    Registered User GKman's Avatar
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    Don't know if this is applicable but it is not uncommon for a weldor to place a hex nut over a stuck fastener and plug weld it on. In addition to having a nice new hex head the heat also helps. In not as good of a welder as some so I weld a heavy flat washer on first then a nut.

    Good luck

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    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    I'm also a fan of the welding technique. I will usually try a next size standard bit or torx bit first, but the welding trick rarely fails. Sometimes it takes multiple attempts. The washer trick can help as it will shield some of the surrounding steel. Sometimes I just take a a piece of flat stock and weld it straight to the bolt, using the flat stock as the wrench handle.

  8. #8
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Those allen recesses are very shallow and BMW uses high strength thread locker at the factory. I have had good luck with heat from a pencil torch right in the center of the recess followed by using a torx bit driven into the recess. I would re-use heat again, but not a lot, because the threadlocker can reset after it has melted.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Woody, those screws are specified as one-time use. The heads are shallow and they are easy to strip. You are right; on the R1100RT, the wheel lugs will hold the rotor tight - those two screws are really just there to hold the rotor in place. The thread locker on those screws is overdone. Get the stripped one out any way you can (lots of good advice already given) and then get a new screw to replace it.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

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    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    Woody, those screws are specified as one-time use. The heads are shallow and they are easy to strip. You are right; on the R1100RT, the wheel lugs will hold the rotor tight - those two screws are really just there to hold the rotor in place. The thread locker on those screws is overdone. Get the stripped one out any way you can (lots of good advice already given) and then get a new screw to replace it.
    +1
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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    Thanks for all the great advice Woody

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    stripped allen head

    I did the torx bit and it worked well after pounding it with a hammer several hard blows. thanks Woody

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    Outlander Omega Man's Avatar
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    Small road corner junkie pffog's Avatar
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    Sounds like you are at 100% success rate too. Glad you were successful, sure beats the other choices.
    2010 F800GS Full Ohlins package, '04 R1100S Replika
    '01 F650GS Wife's bike
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  15. #15
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    Nice thread, I just had to bolt mine all back together with the old rotor still on there after having the same problem. I'll try the heat+torx technique, and maybe scrape some of the threadlocker off the new screws for good measure. (They're 86 cents at the dealer, by the way.)

    On a side note, for the "slip a bolt over it and weld" advice -- these screws are flat-head, countersunk into the rotor carrier. Nothing to slip over, unless you drill the heads off and remove the rotor.
    2000 R1100RT / 1987 K75C (RIP) / Santa Clarita, CA

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