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Thread: R60/5 Driveshaft

  1. #16
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    As I recall, the last time I had my rear wheel assembly off it was just about on the CG (or only very slightly ahead of the center stand). I had the bike on one these small HF lifts. Since the center stand has to be up prior to lifting the bike (to get the lift under the oil pan) it means the weight of the center stand is shifted aft. But even with that extra weight behind the center stand pivot the bike still had a tendency (with the rear wheel off) to want to rotate forward. But not by much. I had a buddy with me as a "guard".

    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  2. #17
    John D'oh
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    I dont want to add to your anxiety but you might consider looking at the thrust rod..

    Quote Originally Posted by kentuvman View Post
    Thanks - the rattle only will occur if I let out the clutch fairly quickly in 1st - only 1st. If I keep adding throttle while letting out clutch, no rattle. No rattle in any other scenario - no other gears or when riding along.

    Driveshaft bolts (no washers) are new and tight - used the rag & 10mm and pulled snug, and so are studs holding motor to frame. Will double check the DS bolts.
    This is kind of a long shot Ken but since you did some clutch work recently, you had the transmission out and you may have a broken thrust rod. I've seen a couple over the years and one recently on an 77 R100RS. The rods are held in close tolerance in the bore through the transmission output shaft and cant "go anywhere" so if they break, they make some noise for a bit till both ends wear into a sort of fit (usually one wears convex and the other concave and they will then run for a while without too much trouble. The noise you would hear from a broken thrust rod is like a snapping sound as the uneven ends 'cam' over each other when you pull or release the clutch and it is amplified by the transmission gear chamber. When the ends wear in, the noise goes away. The adjustment to compensate is minor. The two piece rod pictured was removed from a bike with 56K and may have run like this for up to 10 of those K.
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    John D'oh

  3. #18
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Thanks, John

    I'm all but certain the U joints have slop - the thrust rod was in great shape other than a slight rattle if taking off too quickly, the bike runs amazingly smooth - this is the most "stately" of my (3) beemers, R65LS and K75s.

    Are the U joints serviceable?
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  4. #19
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kentuvman View Post
    Are the U joints serviceable?
    Generally, no. You can read a post by Lew sometime back:

    http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...-Shaft-U-Joint

    In the end, you can see where it can be sent out for rebuild...maybe it's cheaper than a new unit. Anyway, check the thread out.

    Another similar thread:

    http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...U-joint-repair
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  5. #20
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Generally, no. You can read a post by Lew sometime back:

    http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...-Shaft-U-Joint

    In the end, you can see where it can be sent out for rebuild...maybe it's cheaper than a new unit. Anyway, check the thread out.

    Another similar thread:

    http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...U-joint-repair
    Henderson Precision looks like THE ticket - will plan to send when riding season ends.
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

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