Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 31 to 34 of 34

Thread: 2009 R1200GSA innermittent stalling when coasting to a stop.

  1. #31
    K Bikes Complex by Choice cjack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Urbana, IL
    Posts
    3,673
    I agree that you had a bad clutch switch, but for it to kill the engine doesn't add up as I understand the electrics. You can start the bike in neutral with the sidestand out, but as far as I know, the side stand switch kills the engine if you engage a gear regardless of whether the clutch is in or out.
    So I would have suspected that the side stand switch would have been the culprit except for the conditions of shutdown being somewhat repeatable with temperature but not consistent.
    Doesn't matter, but yours is just a puzzle I found interesting. One thing I learned as an EE is never to do more than one fix when diagnosing a problem...and if doesn't solve the problem...put it back the way it was and try the next thing (hard to do with crud in the throttle bodies). Also never discount a coincidence of two or more unconnected things broken.
    My other bike is a BMW.
    Jack Hawley MOA and RA #224, KE9UW ("Chuck")

  2. #32
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Spring Lake NJ, USA
    Posts
    7,633
    A more interesting question to me - why was there that much crud in the throttle-bodies at only 32,500 miles? I checked and cleaned mine at around 65,000 miles (once I got the clamp pliers), and there was virtually no crud or buildup. With the stepped design of the TB throat, the butterfly fully closes at idle, relying only on the steppers and idle passages to provide air at idle. This should make buildup virtually a non-issue as far as performance. Does this bike use a lot of oil? Is it often overfilled with oil? Those are about the only reason I can think of for seeing buildup on the inside of the throttle bodies.

    I would be more suspicious of a gummed up stepper that isn't responding quickly enough when the throttle is fully closed, and I can see how this might be temperature related.

    The stepper valves do have a threaded shaft that moves the tapered tip in and out of the air-idle passage. If you take one out, you can slide the cover over the shaft back a bit, and you'll find the shaft is greased with some white grease. On mine the grease seemed to have hardened up a bit, so I cleaned as much as I could out using a Q-tip and carb cleaner, then regreased the shafts with some Redline Synthetic Moly grease I have (seemed about the right thickness, and is excellent at high temperatures.)

    Here is a photo of the cover pulled back:


    And what to do:


    Note the slight wear marks on the tip in this photo:


    I replaced this one with a spare I had that showed no sign of wear. These marks were deep enough that I could feel them using my thumbnail.. Will the the marks make a difference? Doubtful, but I had the spare so in it went.

    One simple test of the steppers IS the GS911 calibration routine. If you activate it, it moves the steppers to fully closed then open - twice. As this happens you can listen, and feel the action of the stepper. If one is significantly quieter then the other, or seems slower - that one probably bears attention.

    A warning - DO NOT activate the steppers when removed from the throttle-body. The shaft will unscrew itself and according to what I've heard is near impossible to re-engage correctly.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  3. #33
    Topwrench
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by cjack View Post
    I agree that you had a bad clutch switch, but for it to kill the engine doesn't add up as I understand the electrics. You can start the bike in neutral with the sidestand out, but as far as I know, the side stand switch kills the engine if you engage a gear regardless of whether the clutch is in or out.
    So I would have suspected that the side stand switch would have been the culprit except for the conditions of shutdown being somewhat repeatable with temperature but not consistent.
    Doesn't matter, but yours is just a puzzle I found interesting. One thing I learned as an EE is never to do more than one fix when diagnosing a problem...and if doesn't solve the problem...put it back the way it was and try the next thing (hard to do with crud in the throttle bodies). Also never discount a coincidence of two or more unconnected things broken.
    cjack

    I thought as you did about the clutch micro-switch. Then the tech at the local dealer explained to me how the switch should work. Not fully believing him I doubled checked in my repair manual and here is what it said in reference to the operational check of the clutch micro-switch:

    Test
    Move the kill switch to the centre position.

    Select neutral.

    Switch on the ignition.

    Neutral telltale light "N" lights up.

    Select a gear.

    Neutral telltale light "N" goes out.

    Press the starter button.

    Starter does not operate.

    Extend the side stand.

    Pull the clutch lever.

    Press the starter button.

    Starter does not operate.

    Retract the side stand.

    Press the starter button without releasing the clutch lever.

    Starter operates.

    I am in total agreement about not taking anything for granted in reference to the stalling issue. With my 30 plus years as an aircraft mechanic I am amazed how the small little things, especially electronic, can cause intermittent problems. But what I can't get past is how my bike acted when the issue happened, it just shut down like the kill switch was pushed. However, I am just one stall away from being at step one all over again! I m sure you can agree when it comes to any issues with our bikes "anything can and will happen". The best I can hope for is someone giving me a place to start looking.
    Scott D.

  4. #34
    Topwrench
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    44
    deilenberger

    I purchased my used with 8,500 miles on her. So I can't vouch for anything like over service with the oil etc. Since I have owned the bike I do not believe I have over serviced the bike with oil. I have noticed that some oil will burn, but its very very slight and not any more than the 2000 R1200RT. I have had the idle actuators out and they were clean, no sludge noted. I will recheck the idle actuators and your graphics are great! They will be used and are appreciated.
    Just so you know, I thought at first the issue was related to the idle actuators. I borrowed a GS911 and checked the actuators which passed at that time.
    I have a Colorado trip planned in August and will look at the actuators after the trip and will let you know how they look.
    Scott D.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •