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Thread: Need clarification on Oil cannister for oil cooler installation 60/6 1974

  1. #1
    Smoooooth at 430 gch71's Avatar
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    Need clarification on Oil cannister for oil cooler installation 60/6 1974

    Alright here goes, to my airhead associates, its for a 1974 R60/6, I live and drive in the Houston TX area and its getting hot and the gas is getting er...well crapier. So got the pining kind of undercontrol, but the heat is not, it got 102 the other day and I was in slow stop & go traffic (common theme here so Its a daily issue) and it just got way to hot, I've know this airhead since she was born and I know when she complains, she talks to me in ways only fellow airheads can understand, well she was complaining. So I've got my hands on a deeper oil pan with extended pick up and the associated dip stick and also an oil cooler assembly to include the thermostat, center tube, and cooler with lines. Upon further investigation, I found out and I understand the depth for the white Oring and center tube protrution etc. However I am confused about the cannister it's self, I have to replace it with a latter version but why? Is it the depth and or the distance to the side etc???, I read snowbums and other sites but I'm still not really clear about the cannister. So before I proceed with the oil cooler I need more information concerning the cannister and how to replace it.
    Thank you fellow airheads
    Glenn
    Glenn
    ...driving to work on my airhead
    '74 R60/6, '75 R60/6(boxes)

  2. #2
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Anton also mentions that using an oil cooler requires the new canister with the o-ring:

    http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/

    I think it has to do with the fact that you need a new outside cover, which be default, requires the new internals.

    Why not just go with the deep oil pan but use the old dipstick, meaning you put more oil in and you don't have to change the pickup.
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    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
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    The canister is pressed in. Good luck getting the old one out and the new one it without the engine in an assembly stand.

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    Smoooooth at 430 gch71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Anton also mentions that using an oil cooler requires the new canister with the o-ring:

    http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/

    I think it has to do with the fact that you need a new outside cover, which be default, requires the new internals.

    Why not just go with the deep oil pan but use the old dipstick, meaning you put more oil in and you don't have to change the pickup.
    I reread Anton's page and Snowbum, as I understand it, the canister does not have the proper depth for the required spacing between it and the cover for the required infamous $$$$$ o-ring. So I'm best off (if still installing a cooler, not sure any more at this point) replacing the canister, so what is the best way to do this? As for now I'm going to install a deeper oil pan as I have a Reynolds ride off stand so the spacing is not an issue. So my question now is how can I replace the canister, yes I am mechanically inclined and have a good set of tools.
    Glenn
    ...driving to work on my airhead
    '74 R60/6, '75 R60/6(boxes)

  5. #5
    Smoooooth at 430 gch71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
    The canister is pressed in. Good luck getting the old one out and the new one it without the engine in an assembly stand.
    Yup that's what I was looking for, thank you sir.
    Glenn
    ...driving to work on my airhead
    '74 R60/6, '75 R60/6(boxes)

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