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Thread: No Clutch Freeplay on K75

  1. #16
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Can somebody who has been there recently confirm that the throwout bearing is being installed the right way forward and aft? The photo shows the clutch rod fully seated, but another shows a hollow assembly with the bearing at one end.

    If perchance the assembly goes the other way round that would take up what appears to be about 15mm of space.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  2. #17
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    This is the flip side of the throw-out bearing. The push-rod fits that hole perfectly. The hole is 10mm deep.

    P1020920.jpg
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  3. #18
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timtyler View Post
    This is the flip side of the throw-out bearing. The push-rod fits that hole perfectly. The hole is 10mm deep.

    P1020920.jpg
    OK, I was misinterpreting the photo I saw of the cylindrical recess in the back of the transmission.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  4. #19
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    The clutch spring diaphragm points to the rear, right? It's outer edge contacts with the clutch housing / ring, right, not the pressure plate?
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    ... With the lever end completely disconnected the cable should have about 125mm from the end of the sheath to the barrel:
    Confirmed. It does.
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  6. #21
    13278
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    No Clutch Freeplay on K75

    The suspense of waiting for a solution is killing me. I have read and reread your post. I cannot confirm whether the projection of the throwout bearing beyond the rear of the transmission is correct or the problem, but try adjusting the levers and cable by this procedure.

    1. Set the lower clutch cable exposed spec (75mm) on lever #7 in the parts diagram with the knurled adjuster at the hand lever.

    Make sure the lower end of the clutch cable outer sheathing metal end is properly seated in the correct position. The bolt on #7 lever with the 10mm head (#10), at the rear of the throw out bearing, should be loosened so as to not to be making contact with the throw out bearing. Clutch is fully engaged.

    2. Screw bolt #10 in by hand until it just touches the throw out bearing and hold with a 10mm box end wrench while securing the 13mm lock nut.

    Back the 13mm locknut back far enough back before screwing #10 in by hand so that your are sure that it is the bolt that is making contact with the throwout bearing. So far the clutch is fully engaged and there is no slack between the handlebar hand lever and the forward end of the clutch rod at the pressure plate.

    3. Set the cable freeplay at the handlebar lever to spec. (4mm?)

    Screw the knurled adjuster IN so that there is Freeplay in the cable before it disengages the clutch assembly. It is measured at the first place that opens when you pull the lever. You can almost do this by feel and not sight. This slack ensures that the whole clutch assembly is fully engaged and not preloaded or partially disengaged when the lever is out.
    Don't forget to set the knurled locknut on the cable adjuster.

    Hope this helped. Whatever the solution turns out to be, please let us know.
    Charlie

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 13278 View Post
    ... Set the lower clutch cable exposed spec (75mm) on lever #7 ...
    Charlie - If I do that, the push rod is depressed enough to disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission entirely. Even with the #10 screw removed and the hand lever screw all the way in, the #7 lever is touching the #3 throw-out bearing.

    At this point I need to assume that my friction disc and clutch pressure plates are worn enough that replacing them is the only solution.

    Since at this point the wear only inhibits free play and not clutch engagement, I can probably get by another 10k miles as-is, but then I'll need a new clutch pack.
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  8. #23
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    Went for a ride today and the clutch is on the absolute edge of slipping.

    Looks like a new clutch pack (friction disk, two pressure plates, spring, bolts and washers) will run about $300 at MotoBins. Seems like a good deal.

    Is there anywhere in the states to buy this stuff besides the dealer?
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  9. #24
    It's a way of life! oldnslow's Avatar
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    This is a WAG but what about the little piece of felt that is inside the clutch lever housing/cable that keeps crud out of the cable? Is it possible it is jammed up inside the housing and is preventing the cable from seating properly at the clutch lever? They are about 10 cm long. Again, just a WAG.
    Mike Davis
    "Old n Slow" It's a way of life!
    1985 K100RT

    1998 R1100RT

  10. #25
    3 Red Bricks
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    Quote Originally Posted by timtyler View Post
    Looks like a new clutch pack (friction disk, two pressure plates, spring, bolts and washers) will run about $300 at MotoBins. Seems like a good deal.
    Is that including shipping? Last time I talked to them, they said it would be $70 shipping for just a clutch disk.


    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  11. #26
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    No Clutch Freeplay on K75

    Very good suggestion from Mike in a previous response. I'm inclined to think the problem is with the cable also. It only has two ends and there is something wrong on one end or the other or both. The lower end of the cable has to be in the REAR recess of the transmission bracket and not half way back from the hole that you thread the cable through. I say this from experience.
    Some one out there will say the magic word(s) that will solve your predicament. After all, there are thousands of K75/100's out there that are working properly right now. You'll get it. Keep at it. Charlie

  12. #27
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    Double check post #5.


    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  13. #28
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    All the cable measurements suggested by Lee match my cable. The cable is installed properly.

    If someone has a photo of their throw-out bearing installed without the rubber cup we could see if mine is protruding more than it should.

    With the throw-out bearing removed I can grab the pushrod with pliers and slide it easily fore and aft only about 1/8". I suspect that with a fresh clutch pack that movement would increase to 1/2".

    Looks like the Motobins site does not auto-calculate shipping. I'll call them tomorrow.
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Is that including shipping? Last time I talked to them, they said it would be $70 shipping for just a clutch disk.
    Yes. Confirmed $309 US including shipping.
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  15. #30
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    Whoopee. Received the package from MotoBins this morning. It was mailed from the UK just two days ago. That was fast.
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

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