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Thread: R75/6 Headight switch

  1. #1
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    R75/6 Headight switch

    Has anyone taken this switch apart to repair? I got the on / off switch apart but it seems like too much force is required to push the rest of the assembly (hi / low beam - horn) out of the shell. I have not lost any parts (yet) and would like to try and fix the thing rather than replacing. Thanks, Chip

  2. #2
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    What year? The 1974 switches were unique; they look like they are /5 leftovers but they are different. No longer listed in the parts fiche.

    They can be taken apart. What is your switch doing or not doing? On the other hand, it's a switch that has lasted nearly 40 years. If a new replacement is STILL available, buy a new one.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    What year? The 1974 switches were unique; they look like they are /5 leftovers but they are different. No longer listed in the parts fiche.

    They can be taken apart. What is your switch doing or not doing? On the other hand, it's a switch that has lasted nearly 40 years. If a new replacement is STILL available, buy a new one.
    1976. I would like to service the switch before putting it to use. The right side seems to be okay after a shot or two of CRC but the left needs D&C (disassembly & cleaning). If I have to get a new one I will but at nearly $200, I will try and fix it first.

    Thanks,

    Chip

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    Registered User 6659's Avatar
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    If you take that switch apart, there is a small ball bearing that is used for the detent. If you must take it apart, I suggest that you do it inside of a plastic bag. The ball bearing is very small and spring loaded. If you do it out in the open the ball and possibly the spring will disappear.
    77 R75/7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6659 View Post
    If you take that switch apart, there is a small ball bearing that is used for the detent. If you must take it apart, I suggest that you do it inside of a plastic bag. The ball bearing is very small and spring loaded. If you do it out in the open the ball and possibly the spring will disappear.
    I have taken that part (the headlight on/off switch) apart, cleaned it and put it back together. I know I will have to take it apart again if I take the rest of the assembly apart and will be careful about the small parts. My problem is that taking the rest of the assembly apart seems to be taking enough force to break something. I am wondering if I am missing something. Has anyone had the assembly completely apart and if so, what is the procedure?

    Thanks,

    Chip

  6. #6
    Registered User 6659's Avatar
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    That would be that little spring. I had the same problem trying to remove the yellow on/off switch. It is held on the switch with a tiny 'c' clip.It is hard to remove because of the spring and ball bearing. You are probably experiencing the spring caught and and distorting. Do yourself a favor and just spray some electric contact cleaner in there rather than take it apart. Inside there is nothing more than a small ring with small detents in them that allows the ball bearing to hold it in place. That is what gives you the little snick-snick when you turn the headlight on and off.

    BTW, after losing the ball bearing, I had to go to one of those party stores and found some of the small little games for kids where you have to shake it to get the little balls into the eyes of the picture in it. Those balls were the right size to do the repair. AND it did not resolve anything anyway since my problem was a bad headlight relay.
    77 R75/7
    78 R100/7
    93 R100R
    95 MZ Tour

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    Quote Originally Posted by 6659 View Post
    That would be that little spring. I had the same problem trying to remove the yellow on/off switch. It is held on the switch with a tiny 'c' clip.It is hard to remove because of the spring and ball bearing. You are probably experiencing the spring caught and and distorting. Do yourself a favor and just spray some electric contact cleaner in there rather than take it apart. Inside there is nothing more than a small ring with small detents in them that allows the ball bearing to hold it in place. That is what gives you the little snick-snick when you turn the headlight on and off.

    BTW, after losing the ball bearing, I had to go to one of those party stores and found some of the small little games for kids where you have to shake it to get the little balls into the eyes of the picture in it. Those balls were the right size to do the repair. AND it did not resolve anything anyway since my problem was a bad headlight relay.
    I have already had the headlight on/off switch apart, cleaned and back together. I know about the spring and ball bearing. I have them back in now for safe keeping. I know I have to take that apart again to dismantle the whole assembly. The dimmer switch is clearly not right and needs work. The rocker does not settle anywhere for lack of a better description. If it were a momentary switch (triggering a relay), it would spring back to rest. If it were a regular switch it would "click" from low to high. This one needs work beyond cleaning / lubrication. I am looking for guidance from someone who has had the white plastic assembly off the back of the switch cover without breaking it. How much force did it take or is there some step that I am missing. It looks like you should be able to just push the horn and dimmer switches through the cover once the on / off switch handle is removed but mine won't come all the way out. It is as though there is something hidden holding it together.

    Thanks

    Chip

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    Chip,

    I took mine apart on my 1975 R90/6. I too had a hard time removing the top section. As I recall you have to place the high-low beam in the full up position and the bend the housing slightly to snap it apart. I cleaned the contacts. The top went back on a lot easier than when removing it.
    Dave
    BMW R 1150 RT Kawasaki KLR 650
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    BMW R 100 RT Under Construction

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    Quote Originally Posted by DAVIS2X1 View Post
    Chip,

    I took mine apart on my 1975 R90/6. I too had a hard time removing the top section. As I recall you have to place the high-low beam in the full up position and the bend the housing slightly to snap it apart. I cleaned the contacts. The top went back on a lot easier than when removing it.
    Thanks for the insight. I'll give this a try.

    Chip

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