Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: R60/5 Headlight Bucket Help!!!

  1. #1
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    870

    R60/5 Headlight Bucket Help!!!

    Hi Gang,

    I am in the process of taking my time replacing the handlebar switches. At a tech rally, we'd discovered this bike's wiring has been buggered up over the years. I'm posting a couple pictures - I purchased a new wiring block because you can see something got hot and melted the end of it. On the black wire on the headlight switch, there is a green wire spliced in - wondering if that green wire belongs on the end of the wiring block. Finally, there were 3 wires taped up - I removed the tape and as you can see, the wires are just "there."

    I do have a Clymer & Haynes book and am "fair" at reading the schematics. I do know Lew posted a nice color image of the /5 unfused and a B&W of the fused version - mine is fused - the black & white version is tougher to read.

    While I'm at it, The Gen light is orange? and the oil pressure light is red?

    Thanks much! Oh, the horn wasn't working when I picked up the bike - on the starter button side, the turn signal wire had been soldered a couple times and we saw the wire hanging with a big glob of solder - decided to invest in new switch/harnesses.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  2. #2
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    870

    The Rest of the Nest

    Here's the melted wiring block and (3) stray wires!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  3. #3
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    870

    Making Progress

    The Zen flowed into Ken today but not sure yet of positive or negative energy just yet . . .

    All wiring connected - studied the schematic from Haynes so I should be close . . .

    In post #1 the picture shows a green wire spliced to the black wire, part of the horn circuit, or so says the schematic. From what I could figure out, the green wire spliced with the blue connector provides power but not sure from where and to. Not being incredibly savvy at wiring, everything worked when I first got the bike so my lazy reasoning says it should be okay but I know it didn't arrive from Germany in 1973 with a blue connector splice!

    If any commentary on above, lay it on me.

    A couple more questions: What caused the wiring block to melt at the end? the wires I discovered were the horn wire and another wire going to the fuse, both black/green. Would hate to have a repeat performance.

    Next - okay to test everything w/out connecting the headlight?

    p.s. should have rotated the picture - wiring in headlight bucket a LOT more manageable than before - reminds me of trying to unravel fishing line when two fishermen's lines get crossed and the wind is blowing.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  4. #4
    lubbent
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    18
    My suggestion as to why the wiring block melted is a dirty, high resistance connection somewhere at he board. Did a screw loosen in 40 years? Maybe. Also, lots of improper connections in those pics, and although they seem OK so far, probably should get rid of the splices. Or at least make them soldered, and cover with heat shrink. Or if you have it, use an aviation type crimper with aviation terminals. The crimper is leveraged and the terminals have a lot more contact area. They also specs for a oull strength and will not fail or heat if done right.
    Check your wiring colors. There is a convention that BMW uses, and it might not be what we are otherwise used to. Green is 12V from the switch. Green black is fused and switched. Usually a parent color (like green) that has stripes means it goes through a switch or fuse. Brown is ground. Once you understand this system it is a lot easier. If you have the Haynes, as it sound you do, this will jump out at you after two cups of coffee.
    I did this with a /6 lately and although there a lot more wires, knowing the convention for colors helps a lot.
    Of course, some newer replacements have 'close' colors, so be cautious.
    Tom

  5. #5
    Rally Rat
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    152

    Rat nest

    I'm looking at your photos, and see a lot of non-BMW wiring spliced in. I'd guess that at some time, there was a fairing installed with the usual need or splicing the fairing wired into the bike wiring.
    So the first thing I'd do is remove all that excess wiring and all the splices. There have been many references to wiring schematics as well as the posted diagrams providied by Lou. Just check them out to see where your wiring is going and fix what isn't correct. And be thankfull that you don't have a /6 or later harness.
    Boxerbruce

  6. #6
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    870

    Success!!!

    Thanks, Guys - as always!

    Lew Morris suggested taking my time and not being in a hurry. In this event, patience paid off with nice dividends.

    Connected battery and all lights were working except neutral light - it was a bad connection at the neutral switch - now resolved.

    Turn signals & horn working!

    Will now remove the blue crimp and solder-splice it into the black wire and use heat shrink tubing.

    Moving forward!

    p.s. what threw me for a loop besides the melted wiring block were the three wires posted above that surrounded in electrical tape - the colors didn't match up on the schematic - like previous poster says, there is some non BMW wiring for sure.
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  7. #7
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pismo Beach, CA
    Posts
    3,008
    So the first thing I'd do is remove all that excess wiring and all the splices.
    I would still do this Ken. They're future points of failure.

    Having things function the way they're supposed to is positive reinforcement for having delved into the head light bucket. Now it isn't a mystery.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  8. #8
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    870
    Taking my time, Lew - thanks

    Does the motor need to be running for the instrument illumination lights to work? I'm getting power to the lights but they don't come on with just the battery - also the high beam is working but the high beam light is not working. Here's a picture of where it's connected to - can't figure this out. The (3) stray wires in post #2 are now covered with a plastic wire nut and I made sure no wire at the ends is present.

    Tested the headlight and low and high beam works - just the bright light socket isn't powering on.

    Here's a picture of where the wires go on the headlight bulb receptacle - (3) white wires going into one terminal - seems a bit crowded.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  9. #9
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    870
    Figured out instrument illumination lights - intuition kicked in - they're in metal casings so . . . I grounded them to the headlight bucket and voila - they work.

    The German engineering is mind boggling!

    Just left with the bright light indicator being in-op.
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  10. #10
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pismo Beach, CA
    Posts
    3,008
    Hi-Beam indicator light is energized by the White wire on the head light socket (56a). It's the simplest, shortest, wire run on the bike.

    Bad bulb?

    Not grounded? Pull the bulb holder and swipe it with a scotch-brite pad, steel wool, etc. See if you can swipe in inside of the instrument cluster as well.

    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  11. #11
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    870
    Thanks again - wiring nest is in good shape and all lighting is working!
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •