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Thread: Snapped the valve cover screw off in the head...BUMMER!!!!

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    Angry Snapped the valve cover screw off in the head...BUMMER!!!!

    Torqued down to hard on the lower left valve cover screw on my 2007 RT. Does anybody know the fix? And can I ride it anyway? It doesn't seem to be leaking. Oh and by the way I know it was stupid and I'm already feeling ( stupid I mean). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

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    Just me rad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 143143 View Post
    Torqued down to hard on the lower left valve cover screw on my 2007 RT. Does anybody know the fix? And can I ride it anyway? It doesn't seem to be leaking. Oh and by the way I know it was stupid and I'm already feeling ( stupid I mean). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
    Easy fix, many of us have been there with that screw......or other ones Heli-coil and a few others all work. Do a Google or tube search and I'm sure you will find a good "how to" vid.

    If you do it and it is your first time, practice once on an old fitting of some sort.

    As for riding it now, well, I would get it fixed sooner, rather than later. However, if it is not leaking, well, kinda your call.

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    Rally Rat
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    I would start with an exact center punch, then a left handed drill bit. It should come out.

    Then I would be using a torque wrench.

    Good luck

    David

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    Just me rad's Avatar
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    Are you sure you snapped it off? Usually the threads in the head strip; I guess that is what I thought you did.

    If it is snapped, your fix is even easer, however, I would not ride it until it is fixed in that case. If it is broken off flush to the head inside, or close to it that could mean a couple inches of cover screw will be wiggling around near moving parts! Also, with the engine vibration I doubt the screw will stay put with just the rubber collar holding it in place.

    If the head broke off outside the cover......Your life is very easy. I still would not ride it.

    I guess I will ask again, are you sure it snapped and did not strip it? I have never really seen that screw snap. If it did snap, where did it snap?

  5. #5
    Registered User GKman's Avatar
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    Three ways cap screws break:
    1. Bottomed in the hole. Really bad, lots of force holding it from turning.
    2. Rusted in. Heat, solvents and nut trick below are apt to work.
    3. Over-torqued but not bottomed. The easiest, should be loose. Use an ice pick and hammer to apply torque to back it out.

    The slickest broken bolt removal I've seen:
    If the broken end is flush with the surface a welder can position a hex nut about centered on it and with a wire feed weld the nut on. Not only provides something to get hold of but the heat helps loosen. For that one guy who will want to rain on my parade - yes the welded bolt is junk and it's too short anyway so you throw it away and get a new one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GKman View Post
    Three ways cap screws break:
    1. Bottomed in the hole. Really bad, lots of force holding it from turning.
    2. Rusted in. Heat, solvents and nut trick below are apt to work.
    3. Over-torqued but not bottomed. The easiest, should be loose. Use an ice pick and hammer to apply torque to back it out.

    The slickest broken bolt removal I've seen:
    If the broken end is flush with the surface a welder can position a hex nut about centered on it and with a wire feed weld the nut on. Not only provides something to get hold of but the heat helps loosen. For that one guy who will want to rain on my parade - yes the welded bolt is junk and it's too short anyway so you throw it away and get a new one.
    I do a lot of these. Here is the first example I could find.

    Nut welded to stud in a blind hole.

    008-L.jpg

  7. #7
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    Where did the OP go?

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    Stupid is As Stupid Does

    2004 Rockster 23,500 miles. While we are discussing valve cover bolts, I ummm well, stripped the inside of the head, I was hopig it was the bolt that was stripped but alas it is in the head. My question is, can it be filled and re-tapped ? I know a superb welder who builds his own air frames. What I am not sure of is what type of alum alloy it is ? Just regular alum ? I guess my other option is buying a used replacement head.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxter Rider View Post
    2004 Rockster 23,500 miles. While we are discussing valve cover bolts, I ummm well, stripped the inside of the head, I was hopig it was the bolt that was stripped but alas it is in the head. My question is, can it be filled and re-tapped ? I know a superb welder who builds his own air frames. What I am not sure of is what type of alum alloy it is ? Just regular alum ? I guess my other option is buying a used replacement head.
    OK, talk'n stripped threads in the head? easy peasey, and even cheap. Heli-Coil, Time-Sert, there are some others, they all work very well and are easy to use. If you don't want to try it, about any M/C mechanic can do it very quickly.

  10. #10
    Rally Rat
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    One word for stripped threads in the head.

    Helicoil.

    David

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    1998 r1100rt

    Well I guess I have stripped one too now.

    Does anyone know the size of these just so I can walk in and ask for the exact right thing?

    They don't seem to have it on the fiche.

    Not having that knowledge I guess I'll take one down to the heli-coil store with me.

  12. #12
    Happily Bent dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Helicoil, in my opinion, are just good

    Quote Originally Posted by DROOT153718 View Post
    One word for stripped threads in the head.

    Helicoil.

    David
    Helicoil are fast, easy to use, don't require a great deal of care to use. For me, it's the choice to push something out the door and let the next guy deal with it. If I were you, spend the time to look at "Time Sert's" or "Stak-Em's" as options.
    1997 R1100RT (Restored Basket Case) , 1981 KZ 440 LTD (Restored Basket Case)
    1986 K75S(the beutch), 1993 K1100RS (blown engine), 1997 Chev Short Box (4x4 with an LT1)
    "You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him."

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott.lambert View Post
    Well I guess I have stripped one too now.

    Does anyone know the size of these just so I can walk in and ask for the exact right thing?

    They don't seem to have it on the fiche.

    Not having that knowledge I guess I'll take one down to the heli-coil store with me.

    Mmmmm, from memory M6......Take one with you to the auto parts store to check for sure

  14. #14
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GKman View Post
    Over-torqued but not bottomed.
    With the screws in question, this doesn't happen, as they're designed to bottom. This prevents you from flattening the gasket to uselessness.

    This is a clue.

    If you really really can't afford a torque wrench, just stop when the screw bottoms.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

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    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    With the screws in question, this doesn't happen, as they're designed to bottom. This prevents you from flattening the gasket to uselessness.

    This is a clue.

    If you really really can't afford a torque wrench, just stop when the screw bottoms.
    Yeah, I know how they work. Supposedly.
    On they other hand I'm the only one here, so guess who stripped it?
    I should invest in a little torque wrench I guess, one that clicks so I don't need my readers on to use it.

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