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Thread: Suggestions for Cleaning an Aluminum Tank? '89 K75

  1. #16
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    May 2013
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    A quick update. According to the people at POR their "Prep and Ready" acid treatment is safe to use on Aluminum tanks when used as directed (e.g., don't let it soak inside the tank). The did recommend using their "Marine Clean" to prior to the prep and ready to remove residue for the decayed rubbber bushing that held the fuel pump. I had the POR 15 kit and ordered a quart of Marine Clean for $15 delivered.

    I also checked the web site of a local shop, Looper Service, that I used before to repair a bike radiator. I haven't contacted them about the tank yet--I want to try my own repair first.

    As a back-up I found a K75 tank in Upstate NY on Craigslist and my brother checked it out and picked it up for me. I'll be driving up and seeing him this weekend.

    Kontoboy

  2. #17
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    Here's an update--sorry for the late reply. I left the tank cleanining to last after getting the rest of the bike restored.

    After some head scratching I decided to go ahead and try POR Marine Clean-- and it worked very, very well. I think my delay in cleaning the tank helped. When I first drained the tank and removed the fuel pump. the rubber gasket around the pump had dissolved into a sticky black goo, but after several weeks of sitting in the garage that goo had dried solid. In addition to the black goo there was also a patina of light brown gasoline residue and bits of broken fuel hose. With some cautious scraping with a variety of tools I was able to able to get a lot of it out. What I couldn't scrape out I hit with carb cleaner and scrubbed and blotted up best I could. All in all I spent a couple hours with my armin the tank just cleaning before moving on the POR Marine Clean.

    Marine Clean is POR's water based cleaner--one part of MC with one part hot water. Pour it in an slosh it around, and around, and around, and around ad nauseum. The first batch of dirty MC/water that cme out would have easily qualified for a hazardous waste manifest. (Luckily my county has a drop off site that will take just about anything.) It was pure black and littered with debris. After a thorough rinsing and a second washing with MC and I was amazed--the tank was almost pristine with little evidence of the decade of old stale gas it harbored.

    I finished up with the Metal Ready and the POR Sealer per directions, patching a pinhole leak in the process, and I am now waiting the recommended 96 hours for it to dry before installing the fuel pump, sending unit and hoses.

    I can't wait--the rest of my Zombie--back from the dead--is back together and hopefully ready to test fire after 15 years of sitting dormant!

    Thanks everyone.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMSimon View Post
    A safe medium to tumble-clean the inside of a gastank with is glass. Get a piece of broken car glass (preferably a door window) in a junkyard and smash it. It will break into small pieces. Put them in the tank and use the dryer method.
    The glass will remove all the debris and corrosion inside the tnak without damaging or reacting with the tank metal. Also, if for whatever reason a piece gets stuck inside, it will not corrode.
    Let me tell you that EM Simon knows his stuff. Do what he says.

    He may be a little whacko but he knows his stuff!! hehehe

  4. #19
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    Dec 2008
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    3

    My K75 Resurection

    I'm also stripping down a 1992 K75RT fuel tank to access the level of corrosion, and identify any pinhole leaks. I've identified several on both sides of the tank so far. As preciously discussed, the description fits mine to a Tee.

    I liked reading the results of the POR-15 process, any idea what the total cost of materials were? Living here in SoCal, I got to be so careful with the disposing "waste" products; I receive a quote from a local radiator shop to perform a caustic hot tank and acid tank cleaning process, then perform a seal coat of the interior (guaranteed not to leak again ), $150. Decision time... your comment please.

    Now I must be procuring the replacement internal components in anticipation of the previous step. Could someone point me in the right direction where I may find/purchase a complete fuel pump replacement kit and Fuel Level Sender Unit.

    Appreciate your feedback folks.

  5. #20
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Mar 2003
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    Spring Lake NJ, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by scckayak View Post
    I'm also stripping down a 1992 K75RT fuel tank to access the level of corrosion, and identify any pinhole leaks. I've identified several on both sides of the tank so far. As preciously discussed, the description fits mine to a Tee.

    I liked reading the results of the POR-15 process, any idea what the total cost of materials were? Living here in SoCal, I got to be so careful with the disposing "waste" products; I receive a quote from a local radiator shop to perform a caustic hot tank and acid tank cleaning process, then perform a seal coat of the interior (guaranteed not to leak again ), $150. Decision time... your comment please.

    Now I must be procuring the replacement internal components in anticipation of the previous step. Could someone point me in the right direction where I may find/purchase a complete fuel pump replacement kit and Fuel Level Sender Unit.

    Appreciate your feedback folks.
    The hot dip tank will also damage and/or remove the paint on the tank. That's fine if you're going to repaint it anyway, but if the paint was decent, I think I'd go with the POR treatment. They do make good stuff (don't get the actual sealer on anything you don't want it on, it won't come off..)
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

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