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Thread: 1963 r69s success!*

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  1. #1
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    1963 r69s success!*

    The good news- I decided to give it one last go. Took the carbs off, cleaned everything (but I can't say it looked too bad, blasted the jets and passages, put it all together, 3 count tickle, 3 kicks key out, 2 kicks key in, and success!

    What's more, it continued to start with one or two kicks!

    But here's the asterisk. Huge oil leak from the riders right base gasket, and I think I know why. Flat bottom on the cylinder, and I'm using the metal gasket. The other side has the ridges, so it's oil tight. I guess I have to get the paper gasket...

    Thanks to everyone with the advice!

  2. #2
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    Cool Whoops! R69s, not r68!

    Fat fingers on an iPhone....

  3. #3
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    I saw your R68S versus R69S...I edited the title if that's OK.

    Define huge. Duane discusses the "old" and "new" cylinders here:

    http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/cylinder/

    If you have a new engine case, you should have new cylinders in order to take advantage of the additional oiling BMW decided to include. Something to be aware of in your case.

    Duane also says that the metal gaskets can be used on either. But I think you should have a thin film of sealant. I just got finished using Permatex Ultra Gray on my /7 top end overhaul. Thin is the operative word.

    Glad you made progress.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Smile New style, flat bottom

    Nope, it's new all around. Thin layer of sealant( perhaps too thin), but the base of the cylinder is flat. Per the barrington book, these require the paper gaskets. The style that has the concentric raised rings on the base can use the metal style.

    The leak is a solid drip, more with higher speed. They said it might weep, so I took the gamble. I'm ok with a little weeping, but this was more like sobbing!

  5. #5
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    Success, part 2

    I got my parts from vech, and a nice 2 hours later, an oil tight bike!
    I actually waited a few days to allow the gaskets to seal, but after flooding the bike (here's a tip- if you have gas coming out the main and idle airways at the throats of the carbs, you've flooded the carb), it started happily!

    Next step is that final tune; set idle speed, air screw (trying that color tune), sync the carbs, and (gulp) timing....

    I'm still gun shy about riding it, but lets see if we can rebuild that trust....

  6. #6
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    Nice! Keep us informed...
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  7. #7
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    Still looking good....

    So I've only put about 50 miles on the bike, not going too crazy, and only had it up to about 50 mph, but so far, so good. Did the color tune, Synched the carbs, but frankly, I'll have to do that again. I had a problem with the throttle cables coming out from the slides; I think I have that all properly set up, and the spring pressure seems to be holding the cables tight.

    The leaking cylender is not leaking, the bike starts as it pretty much should (this thing floods like texas!)

    I think I'm gun shy about the timing getting too advanced, and another melt down. But, it all seems like it has come together. I guess the last thing I need to do is a final clean up on the bike, and I'll post a "happy" picture!

    I want to thank everyone here for their help and advice on this project!

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