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Thread: 95 1100 LT just quit while going down the road

  1. #16
    On the Road mattson4137's Avatar
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    another thought

    Have you checked the kill switch for possible dirty contacts? The switch contacts can get dirty over time just sitting in the run position and can cause the now it works and now it doesn't work. The switch is not sealed so dirt and grime can get on the contacts. Clean using contact cleaner. If you take the switch apart remember their are small parts inside that are spring loaded to the fly apart position! I believe the the side stand switch and the kill switch are in series. I faced a slimmer problem (95 K1100RS) and a dirty kill switch was part of the problem.

    With the key on watch the fuel gauge as you flip the kill switch on and off, the gauge will drop to zero when the kill switch is off and come back to life with the switch in run, if the gauge doesn't come alive with the key on and the kill switch on, theirs you problem (or at least one of them).

    Cheers,
    Merle

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69ZEFF65 View Post

    I ran seperate ground wire to the body of the the sending unit and tried the key again. Fuel pump ran for 2 seconds, shut off and then restarted when I cranked the bike over. Progress again!
    On one of the bikes that I worked on that had a similar problem, the ground was bad where it went THROUGH the plate. Ground from inside wires were good to the plate, but the wire that was firmly attached to the plate on the outside was not making conductivity to the plate. Cutting the wire and putting a ring terminal to one of the mounting screws fixed it. You problem might be on the ground side.



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
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  3. #18
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    I think I have one of the Gremlins cornered

    I put my volt/ohm meter away today and did a little smoke, spark and weird behavior testing before heading off to my job as a nuclear weapons disarming tech. Only kidding about the job. The gas tank is off the bike and the fuel sender, harness, pump and all the wiring is removed but still a unit and sitting on an old pair of jeans where the seat(and my butt)should be for the purpose of testing, trial & error. 98lee you hit on something there because I did the same extra ground thing to the fuel tank early on after I saw a little arcing under the tank when I first got the bike, I just didn't want to blow up its as simple as that.

    Here is what I did today and what I found. I connected everything as it should be and I bypassed the side stand switch with a jumper wire. I set the fuel level float at about a half tank , turned on the key and no fuel gauge or pump response. I shook the sending unit(4 pin)connector and the gauge needle went nutz but still no pump. Upon closer and much more aggressive testing of the connection I found it might be best to replace the 4 pin OEM connector with something a little more suitable and durable for its application. I checked with the dealer for an OEM replacement and the response I got told me I should upgrade that connector just a little as BMW no longer supplies that connector. I will be upgrading the side stand switch connector also because amazingly enough I could get the Motronic and fuel pump relays to click away with just a twist of the wire behind that connector.

    I must remember from now on continuity does not mean a good connection, just a connection at that time.

    Still got the K-bike parts for sale add saved I just hope I don't need it.

  4. #19
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    That DOES sound like a ground problem as the four wires going to the tank are: Fuel Pump +, Fuel Gauge ground lead, Low fuel Light ground lead, and Chassis Ground. The gauge and light lead go through the sending unit (float) and then find ground through the common Chassis Ground. The most likely to affect both pump and gauge at the same time would be that common Chassis ground.

    I'm not sure (as I don't have a K11 schematic in front of me) if that common Chassis Ground lead goes through you sidestand switch (that would be a logical way to route it). I'll check the schematic in the morning.


    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
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  5. #20
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    The common chassis ground wire goes straight from the fuel sender plate through the brown wire in the 4 pin connector to frame ground. It does not go through the side stand switch. It is used by both the fuel pump and the fuel level sender.

    The most common failure point is where the tab on the end of the brown wire is soldered to the outside of the sender plate or where the tab on the end of the black fuel pump ground wire is soldered to the inside of the plate.

    For testing purposes, run a good ground wire from the ground side of the fuel pump (black wire side) directly to the negative side of the battery or a very good chassis ground (possibly the left side of the tranny near the shifter where the battery ground lead connects) and remove the black wire from the pump. The pump should consistently work, but the fuel gauge should still be flakey.

    If so, then run another good ground from a bolt going through one of the sender plate holes to the same battery ground. That should make the fuel gauge work consistently. If so, remove separate ground from pump and reinstall black wire. If both pump and gauge still work, the problem is the brown wire on the outside of the sender plate between the plate and the frame ground. Most likely it is the solder joint between the end tab and the plate. If so, cut the wire at the tab and put a ring terminal on the end and loop it over one of the plates mounting studs. Thoroughly clean the area where it makes contact to the plate. That is a more reliable fix than trying to resolder the connection .



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
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  6. #21
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    I went back to the begining

    I remembered when I first got the Fuel pressure regulator problem fixed and I ran the bike for the first time. I got a little sparking and arcing from the fuel tank mounting lugs and I stuck a ground wire on the fuel sender screw like 98lee suggested. After going over several of the replies and suggestions along with rereading the Adventure rider thread I decided to replace the Fuel tank sender/fuel pump four pin connector. That connector failed the old fashion power it up, twist the connector and watch the fuel gauge. I picked up the replacement down at the local NAPA, nope not a trailer hitch connector but a GM style water proof unit.

    I installed it and everything works as it should consistently. I have to go to work in just a few minutes but I'm picking up some fresh gas on the way home to put in it for the test ride tomorrow. I have a feeling that its fixed and may gold plate the OEM connector as that's about what my tail chasing and parts replacing cost me in time and $$$.

    I'll let you know if its good or I got to push again.

  7. #22
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    If that fixes the problem, it was probably the brown chassis ground wire either at or just next to the connector.

    Aren't intermittent electrical problems fun?



    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

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