Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: 1989 BMW R100RT - Neutral Switch Removal and Replacement

  1. #1
    Registered User b25bsaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Calgary, AB. Canada
    Posts
    422

    1989 BMW R100RT - Neutral Switch Removal and Replacement

    Good afternoon,

    Just noticed that my neutral light transmission switch is leaking again. In order to remove this varmint, do you have to remove the whole transmission?
    Rick MacPherson
    Success is Not a Destination, But a Journey.
    Accredited Motorcycle Appraiser
    1968 BSA Starfire, 1976 BMW R75/6, 2009 R1200RT

  2. #2
    rabid reader dbrick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Santa Cruz CA
    Posts
    1,739
    Snowbum has an article on neutral switches here
    David Brick
    Santa Cruz CA
    2007 R1200R

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    276
    If you're already planning on replacing it, might be worth to just try and snug it up. I was already to replace mine last week and after I cleaned the whole area up I decided to see what would happen if I just tried tightening it ever so slightly. It worked!
    It seems everywhere you look there are people cautioning about over-tightening these (good advice indeed, DAMHIK) but I think sometimes they can use a LITTLE more torque to stay sealed properly.

  4. #4
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    1,908
    Don't they usually leak through the plastic insert and onto the spade connector? I read somewhere here where guys bought new ones and sealed them all up with JB Weld before installing to correct this more permanently. Seems to be a very common occurrence with these switches.

    oooops, all is explained on snowbums site!
    Last edited by Happy Wanderer; 04-22-2013 at 12:50 AM. Reason: too slow...
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  5. #5
    '92 R100GS '81 R100/t brittrunyon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Embudo, New Mexico
    Posts
    375
    +1 on cleaning it up then snugging it up

    If that doesn't help, JB weld the plastic part on the new one.
    20k miles & no leaks
     photo PB142545.jpg
    Last edited by brittrunyon; 04-22-2013 at 02:52 AM.
    1992 R100 GS, 1981 R100/t, 2007 F 650 GS

    No Rules Photography at http://brittrunyon.com/
    My riding videos @ http://vimeo.com/user2721333/videos

  6. #6
    Registered User b25bsaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Calgary, AB. Canada
    Posts
    422
    Quote Originally Posted by b25bsaboy View Post
    Good afternoon,

    Just noticed that my neutral light transmission switch is leaking again. In order to remove this varmint, do you have to remove the whole transmission?
    Thank you for all that responded, but the question was, do you have to remove the whole transmission to get at it? Or is there enough room to drop it without taking the whole transmission out?
    Rick MacPherson
    Success is Not a Destination, But a Journey.
    Accredited Motorcycle Appraiser
    1968 BSA Starfire, 1976 BMW R75/6, 2009 R1200RT

  7. #7
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pismo Beach, CA
    Posts
    2,986
    do you have to remove the whole transmission to get at it?
    The short of it. No. Pull the rear engine mount bolt and remove the spacer.

    Here's a more complete description of the process (half way down the page) > http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r80gs.html



    A past thread you might find helpful > http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...hlight=leaking
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  8. #8
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    12,820
    Rick -

    No, but at the very least I think you have to remove the frame spacer. Once removed and after the switch change, bevel the edges of the spacer, put it in the freezer, and then when ready, quickly put it in place. Snowbum talks about it here about mid way down:

    http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/neutralswitch.htm
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  9. #9
    Registered User b25bsaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Calgary, AB. Canada
    Posts
    422
    Quote Originally Posted by lmo1131 View Post
    The short of it. No. Pull the rear engine mount bolt and remove the spacer.

    Here's a more complete description of the process (half way down the page) > http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r80gs.html



    A past thread you might find helpful > http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...hlight=leaking
    Lew,

    Just in from the shop and did exactly what you advised. Worked like a dream, put the spacer into the freezer and I am on my way to get some JB Weld. Cleaned the electrical ends with some brake cleaner and air dried.

    Guess this is one of the main reasons I like this board and club, as people are willing to share their knowledge. The last British Triumph Bonnie is now in Hong Kong and I will be starting to finish my 76 R75/6.

    Lew, Thank you again for the direction and advise!
    Rick MacPherson
    Success is Not a Destination, But a Journey.
    Accredited Motorcycle Appraiser
    1968 BSA Starfire, 1976 BMW R75/6, 2009 R1200RT

  10. #10
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pismo Beach, CA
    Posts
    2,986
    Lew, Thank you again for the direction and advise!
    Bitte. It's been posted here before Rick, I just have good memory (for a while longer anyway).

    And as Kurt mentioned...

    ... bevel the edges of the spacer ...
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  11. #11
    Registered User b25bsaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Calgary, AB. Canada
    Posts
    422
    Quote Originally Posted by lmo1131 View Post
    Bitte. It's been posted here before Rick, I just have good memory (for a while longer anyway).

    And as Kurt mentioned...
    Did what Lew said, "The short of it. No. Pull the rear engine mount bolt and remove the spacer."

    Here is a picture of the neutral light switch after the JB Weld treatment. Before i put the spacer back in, replaced the battery to make sure that that the neutral light is working on the dash. The last thing I needed was to take it apart again!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Rick MacPherson
    Success is Not a Destination, But a Journey.
    Accredited Motorcycle Appraiser
    1968 BSA Starfire, 1976 BMW R75/6, 2009 R1200RT

  12. #12
    Registered User helmut_head's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Michitucky
    Posts
    416

    Lew!

    Quote Originally Posted by lmo1131 View Post
    The short of it. No. Pull the rear engine mount bolt and remove the spacer.

    Here's a more complete description of the process (half way down the page) > http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r80gs.html



    A past thread you might find helpful > http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...hlight=leaking
    Geeze Lew! You better change that leaking neutral switch....

    I have the rear exhaust crossover on mine (R80RT). It's a bear even with the engine mount spacer tube pulled back...With a lot of patience, it's doable without removing the crossover pipe.
    Helmut always wears a Helmet.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •