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Thread: Questions to Ask - Viewing a '99 R1100RT

  1. #1
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    Questions to Ask - Viewing a '99 R1100RT

    I'm viewing/testing a 1999 R1100RT today. I currently ride a 2001 F650GS single and anm looking to upgrade. My intent is to obtain an RT for a tour of the Southwest in May. The bike in question is an RT with 74k miles. My local and trusted BMW mechanic knows the owner and says he "is a guy who buys broken bikes and rebuild them, does solid, complex work and buys a lot a parts from us." The guy has several RTs and a total of 15 BMW bikes.

    What questions would you ask outside of these:
    • What have you done to the bike?
    • What was the mileage when you bought it?
    • When was it ridden last?
    • When was the last tune up, oil change, air filter change, etc.?
    • What would be the next thing you'd do if you were keeping it?


    I'll replace the tires and have it serviced by my local mechanic, but would appreciate your experience with RTs or probing questions in general.

    Thanks,
    Baz

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    At that mileage, and given the guy's reputation, i'd just ask to see his service records on it. Alternator belt, fuel filter, and most importantly, HES wiring and transmission input spline lubes would be primary needs. "Tune-ups" are so simple and low-cost that i wouldn't really worry about that at all, tho it would be nice to know so you don't have to bother with repeating recently completed tasks. Funtionality of ABS would be nice to know, along with age of battery.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

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    oh yeah. unlike your GS, basic service on an oilhead is stupidly easy, and does not warrant bringing it to your mechanic, regardless of how good the guy is. Save that $, spend it on a manual, a good set of feeler gauges and a Harmonizer or Twin-Max, and get to know the bike.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

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    In my opinion it's all about the input shaft splines and the HES for a starter.

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    Thanks

    I appreciate the input, guys.

    I saw the bike and took it for a test drive. It's a former police (CHP) bike sans the extra crap they ride with. Rode well, had a solid feel. HES and input shaft splines have been untouched. Also the little circular spacers between the front disc halves a loose and need replacing. It will need new brake pads soon as well. Compression is good at 165 in both cylinders.

    I have another week to think about it.

    Thanks again.

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    HES wiring and rotor buttons are not major deals, but might be worth a bit of a price consideration (a fw $hunny). Was this bike in PD service? If so, i'd be surprised if it's on the orginal clutch, as most moto officers are pretty tough on those dry plates. If PD, and original clutch, i would for sure want to see a "price consideration" ($1000-$2000) for the to-be-expected job.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

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    Also check for movement at the final drive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerfish1100 View Post
    HES wiring and rotor buttons are not major deals, but might be worth a bit of a price consideration (a fw $hunny). Was this bike in PD service? If so, i'd be surprised if it's on the orginal clutch, as most moto officers are pretty tough on those dry plates. If PD, and original clutch, i would for sure want to see a "price consideration" ($1000-$2000) for the to-be-expected job.
    The clutch was replaced in the last month.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BRASSCAP View Post
    Also check for movement at the final drive.
    There didn't seem to be. But maybe you further define 'movement' and I'll check it. Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AptosBaz View Post
    There didn't seem to be. But maybe you further define 'movement' and I'll check it. Thanks.
    On the centerstand, grab the rear wheel at 3 and 9 0'clock and apply pressure side to side and the same at 6 and 12 o'clock.
    You should not feel any movement.

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