Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Thread: '93 K75S Inspection and Initial Maintenance

  1. #1
    Registered User TechPoet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    9

    '93 K75S Inspection and Initial Maintenance

    Howdy,

    This week I got a 20 year old bike (K75S) with around 110k miles for a (time will tell) good price. I took a risk in not getting a mechanical inspection. I have a few concerns with it which I'll save for other posts. I would like to ask the community for help in creating a list of inspection points and then initial maintenance procedures.

    Hopefully this will be comprehensive enough to serve in the K-bikes-DIY-Tech-Library.

    Pre-purchase Inspection Points (PrePIP)
    What to listen, smell, look, feel for in the K

    Post-purchase Maintenance Steps (PostPMS)
    What to do to set the ground for it. This is my ride now, I want my own confidence in the fluids, etc.

    ---
    I've started to compile ideas from various threads and other forums and page on the interweb but wanted to get more experienced direction.
    ---

  2. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Olympia, WA
    Posts
    158
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  3. #3
    K75RT Keith
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Rocky River Ohio
    Posts
    50
    Welcome to the wonderful world of K-Bikes! I agree with your thinking, start by changing the fluids from final drive to front brakes. I did that with my K75RT that had been sitting for a couple years and it was a wise decision.

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    73
    Hi,

    I just picked up a 85 K100RS last registered in 1999. It rode fine and I was able to ride it home to San Diego from Pomona.
    I did:

    1. change the tires. The old ones were 16 and 18 years old wearing 3 digit date codes. I didn't feel it would be safe.
    2. changed fork oil
    3. changed engine oil and filter
    4. coolant change
    5. got new brake pads (waiting to be installed)
    6. flushed the brake lines
    7. charged the battery
    8. changed the tank gasket
    9. changed air filter
    10. will be changing the transmission and final drive oil
    11. will be lubing the splines -- waiting for my order of Wurth 3000 to show up hopefully today
    12. will replace a leaking cluth bell rubber seal when the transmission is pulled
    13. should probably replace the fuel filter (although my local dealer told me the part is not available and ended up selling me the fuel pump strainer instead....)
    14. Was told by dealer to flush the tank, but I looked inside mine and I have to say, the aluminum tank is spotless. YMMV
    15. checked the rubber hoses, all felt okay. I think I'll just keep an eye on them
    16. will replace the plugs
    17. debating about checking valve clearnace..... I hate/fear leaking and fiddling with gaskets
    18. debating about changing the fork springs and rear shock. I think I'll ride awhile to see. The dealer told me that if I'm looking for a firmer ride to not bother. Bikes from the 80's will never have the crispness of the bikes made today.

    19. will check clutch and seals while I'm in there as per Don's rec.


    anything else, I would also appreciate some input.

  5. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Olympia, WA
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by cy7878 View Post
    Hi,
    13. should probably replace the fuel filter (although my local dealer told me the part is not available and ended up selling me the fuel pump strainer instead....)
    Other options here.

    I buy the MAHLE Original KL 145 Fuel Filter.
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    73
    Quote Originally Posted by TimTyler View Post
    Other options here.

    I buy the MAHLE Original KL 145 Fuel Filter.
    Nice. Thank you very much for the link.

  7. #7
    Mars needs women! 35634's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Posts
    1,968
    Introduce yourself over at www.motobrick.com They're more focused on old bricks & have lots of helpful expertise.
    1987 K75S
    Original litter
    Original owner
    2012 Ural Gear Up

  8. #8
    3 Red Bricks
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Pleasanton, Ca.
    Posts
    3,139
    Quote Originally Posted by cy7878 View Post
    13. should probably replace the fuel filter (although my local dealer told me the part is not available and ended up selling me the fuel pump strainer instead....)
    .
    Your dealer parts guy is either lazy or not very skilled:


    16 14 2 325 859 FUEL FILTER $35.22




    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  9. #9
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    SW Iowa
    Posts
    1,300
    Quote Originally Posted by cy7878 View Post

    17. debating about checking valve clearnace..... I hate/fear leaking and fiddling with gaskets
    Don't be afraid of this job, checking the valves on a brick engine is easy. I've done it and I'm not much of a mechanic.
    In the rare case that the valves need adjustment, this is also very easy.
    Gasket is not a problem because it's rubber. Just make sure it's clean and the engine cases are clean and you're good to go. If it does happen to leak, it will probably leak right away and then it's only a couple minute job to remove the cover again.
    My first BMW was an airhead and I found the brick engine much easier to check valve clearances on, and the great thing about a brick is it rarely needs an adjustment.
    Lee 2011 K1300S
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  10. #10
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    SW Iowa
    Posts
    1,300
    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    Your dealer parts guy is either lazy or not very skilled:


    16 14 2 325 859 FUEL FILTER $35.22




    I agree. I thought all the K75, K100, K1100, K1200 brick bikes used the same filter.
    Lee 2011 K1300S
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  11. #11
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    SW Iowa
    Posts
    1,300
    Quote Originally Posted by TimTyler View Post
    Other options here.

    I buy the MAHLE Original KL 145 Fuel Filter.
    Instead of Amazon, let me recommend Beemer Boneyard. They're great to work with and the last time I checked they offer BMWMOA members a 10% discount.
    http://www.beemerboneyard.com/16142325859.html
    Lee 2011 K1300S
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  12. #12
    RK Ryder
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    London, Ontario
    Posts
    2,010
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee View Post
    I agree. I thought all the K75, K100, K1100, K1200 brick bikes used the same filter.
    As does my R1100RT.

    Here are some alternate fuel filters although I've only tried the OEM and the NAPa filters
    NAPA Gold 3032
    Wix 33032 at CarQuest
    Paul
    Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
    Treasurer of the Forest City Motorrad Club #159
    Knights of the Roundel #333

  13. #13
    Registered User TechPoet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    9
    Amazon says this (MAHLE Original KL 145 Fuel Filter) doesn't fit '93 K75S. But what do they know...

    Is there a good site with part compatibility charts?

  14. #14
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Olympia, WA
    Posts
    158
    The MAHLE Original KL 145 fits and is one of the better options given the high pressure fuel system on the K bikes.
    Tim
    Olympia, WA
    1991 K75 - 121k Miles

  15. #15
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    73
    few hours more into it last night and here I am...


    The question for all if since I don't have a lift. I don't have a wheel choke either. I made a box that is 9 inches in height and fairly sturdy and with 2x4s as support. What is the safest way to get the bike off the center stand without spending a lot of money on lifts to get to the gear box?

    what have people done in this case?
    Attached Images Attached Images

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •