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Thread: R60/5 Swingarm Maintenance

  1. #1
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    R60/5 Swingarm Maintenance

    Now ready to re-install swing arm - bearings turn freely - wondering if I should go to the extra effort of removing the bearings to wash and re-grease? Don't think this has been done before. If so, do I need to buy the swingarm bearing puller tool that cycleworks sells or can I remove it with a screwdriver & small hammer w/out doing any damage? If no need to remove bearings, am I supposed to load cavity with fresh grease before putting the oil seal (the flanged round keeper that attaches to each end of the swing arm)

    When replacing the gaiter, memory says there is a top & bottom - my only reference is numbers stamped into the rubber.

    I don't have the special torque wrench adapter for the new driveshaft bolts - is snug okay? Manual says install them dry but I've also read about using a drop of red loctite.

    Is permatex a good sealant to use for new gasket that attaches to FD?

    Lastly, what is proper procedure for preload - do the big nuts really need to be torqued down to 70#?

    Thanks
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  2. #2
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Rubber boot: there is a top/bottom and a front/back...the boot has German words written on it...be sure and orient correctly

    Bolts: short bolts with no lock washer. Snowbum says use the wrench in the tool kit with a rag in your palm...and give it a good grunt. NOT RED LOCTITE!! Clean and dry with blue loctite.

    And you really need the proper tools and torque wrench to secure the swingarm. You need the ground down 27mm socket along with a allen wrench adapter for the nuts. It must be centered between the frame. The torquing is necessary to get the proper preload on the bearings. Snowbum has a pretty good write up on it.
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  3. #3
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Here's Bum's whole write up. It has a link to get to the special tools page > http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm
    Here's another good write up > http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/bl...1&tag=BMW%20/5

    You will notice when you look at the boot that one end is "round" (transmission end), and the other end is shaped like the end of the swing arm. The German word "OBEN" (above (top)) is molded into the rubber... this goes... up.

    And I just went through this on my '73 R75/5 ... If you are replacing the band clamps make sure that the clamp has "82" (diameter). Everyone seems to be selling "83" mm clamps now. Getting the swing arm end of the boot onto the bell of the swing arm is a PITA... be patient. I make a little 90-degree hook tool out of welding rod (round off the end) to hell fight it on. And it was a fight.. .. I have minus patience now a days...

    If you don't feel any "catches" when you rotate the bearings they're fine. Grease the bearings up in the palm of your hand by pressing the back side of the bearing into grease until it oozes out of the front side; rotate the bear a little and repeat, rotate and repeat until you've got the whole bearing lubricated. It's the "old school" method, but it works fine; all the grease fitting does is make it easier to routinely pump grease (and the grit that accumulates in it) out of the bearings... without removing the bearings.

    I used the 12pt 10mm tool kit wrench-with-a-rag-and-a-grunt method along with BLUE loktite and it works fine; just make sure to take a few minutes to degrease everything really well.

    I used a drill bit as a "fit gauge" to center the swing arm between the frame; loosen one side, tighten the other, etc. I don't remember what diameter, it doesn't matter ... it's just a handy way to get the gap the same on both sides.

    Torqing the PIVOT PINS to the recommended 15 ft/lbs preloads the bearings. Then back them off and re-tighten to 7-9 ft/lbs. Holding the pivot pin in place, torque the 27mm [1-1/16"] nut to 72-77 ft./lbs.

    Buy it, or make it (it doesn't have to be purdy to get the job done) ... you really can't do it right without it.

    This one's made by Northwest Airheads (no affiliation)


    Addendum: I'm not much on sealants ... they usually make life hell at some point (at least fore me). I just used heavy grease on the swing arm/final drive gasket. No drips or leaks so far.
    Addendum: A little tribal lore to catch up on > http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...ft-boot-CLAMPS
    Last edited by Lmo1131; 03-09-2013 at 02:22 AM.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

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    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Thanks - the motorcycle classics link is great - I do have on loan a ground down socket - the tutorial makes it clear.

    Before I put on the rear wheel, want to clean all the aluminum crust from the hub - was thinking of using a long handled brush and some 3m rubbing compound - a friend suggested soda blasting but tire is on and it is such a mess.

    Haven't heard any commentary about using permatek on the rear gasket that connects to the FD.
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  5. #5
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Haven't heard any commentary about using permatek on the rear gasket that connects to the FD.
    See my first "addendum".

    I don't suppose using it would hurt to use permatex, but sealants in general make such a mess when it comes time to change something. Remember when you get ready to bolt on the FD to hand tighten the four nuts just enough to hold it on. Then, insert the axle and wheel, install the axle nut and then snug it up (not to "operating" torque (and you don't have to tighten the axle pinch bolt)). This will align the centerline of the FD with everything so there is no binding on the axle. Now, torque the FD before you loosen the axle nut.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  6. #6
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Decided to yank out the bearings & glad I did - there was a lot of brown grease but bearings were pretty gummed up - now nice & clean - replacement keepers on order - used a small chisel & punch to remove.
    Going the extra mile!
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  7. #7
    Rally Rat
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    Sealant

    Quote Originally Posted by kentuvman View Post
    Thanks - the motorcycle classics link is great - I do have on loan a ground down socket - the tutorial makes it clear.

    Before I put on the rear wheel, want to clean all the aluminum crust from the hub - was thinking of using a long handled brush and some 3m rubbing compound - a friend suggested soda blasting but tire is on and it is such a mess.

    Haven't heard any commentary about using permatek on the rear gasket that connects to the FD.
    Here's the real deal. The rear drive goes on with no sealant. Bolt it up, but leave the nuts loose. Run the axle through the assembly to lighn it all up, before tightening the rear drive nuts. The goal is to have the axle slide in and out smoothly.
    Boxerbruce

  8. #8
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    I don't suppose using it would hurt to use permatex, but sealants in general make such a mess when it comes time to change something. Remember when you get ready to bolt on the FD to hand tighten the four nuts just enough to hold it on. Then, insert the axle and wheel, install the axle nut and then snug it up (not to "operating" torque (and you don't have to tighten the axle pinch bolt)). This will align the centerline of the FD with everything so there is no binding on the axle. Now, torque the FD before you loosen the axle nut.
    there's an echo in here.. . .. .
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  9. #9
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Echoes okay here
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

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