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Thread: Distance Between Oil Changes

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by hondarider View Post
    ....have the FD serviced....
    what FD service are you looking at? and, or major import, what model bike?

    I've gotten good service from Shinko 705s on my F8GS, up to 8K miles. From a tire that is good in the dirt (forget deep mud or sand tho) and very secure on the street, that is not bad. Especially when I'm only shelling out $150/pair, or less (I've scored them for as low as $100/pr).
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by hondarider View Post
    So I'm considering a cross country run from east to west and back again...something like 6500 miles in 10 days...I'm thinking about doing the whole trip without an oil change...I'll probably burn and replace a quart or more anyway. Anybody routinely going 7000 miles before a change? I've never really gone more than 5000 miles myself, but I hate to waste time on an oil change in the middle of a trip.
    When are you making this trip-soon? I think weather this time of the year is totally unpredictable.

    Larry

  3. #18
    Registered User greenwald's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by royaltyl View Post
    When are you making this trip-soon? I think weather this time of the year is totally unpredictable.

    Larry
    Not really?!

    This time of year, it's the predictable mess of sudden storms, tornadoes, blizzards, intenese rain/sleet, high winds and other such minor irritants.

    Hopefully, this is a trip several months off yet.
    Kevin Greenwald - Touring Tips Editor
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  4. #19
    Ponch ponch1's Avatar
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    To answer the original question, not far. I change the oil in roughly the same place and position each time.
    My Motorrad
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  5. #20
    HONDARIDER
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    Can't believe I forgot to say what bike I'm talking about...2009 R1200 GSA...and the trip is in June so I'm hopeful for decent weather.

  6. #21
    Registered User CLYEAGER's Avatar
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    Since the possibility that a problem could result from changing to synthetic oil is on your mind already, and is apparently still debatable, and, since you consider an oil change to be an inconvenience during your trip, do you really want to change oil type right before a long ride?
    IMHO, it may be less worrisome to get an oil change just before leaving with what you've been using and carry an extra quart of that to top off, if necessary.

    Just a thought.

    Curt
    Last edited by CLYeager; 03-10-2013 at 01:36 PM. Reason: wording
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ponch1 View Post
    I switched to synth at 12K and it hasn't leaked yet.
    And how many miles are on the bike?
    Max

  8. #23
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    8,500 miles on a cross-country trip 2 years ago. Added about 1/8 of a quart when my buddy was filling his and had some left over. I never worried about running that far; oil was only 3 weeks old when I changed it out for new oil. Mobil 1 in case anyone wonders...

  9. #24
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    My 2009 manual says that "BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 6,000 miles". The very
    next sentence says, "Ask your BMW Motorrad retailer for engine oils suitable for your motorcycle". Hilarious. My BMW
    retailer service manager says to use full synthetic from mile one. Which I have done, and the machine uses about a half
    quart every 3,000 miles and doesn't leak a drop anywhere.
    2009 R1200GS

  10. #25
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by Downs View Post
    That's one of those commonly perpetuated myths now days. There plenty of cars that come filled from the factory with full syn oil in the pans.
    My last two vehicles, one foreign made - one domestic, both came with synthetic from the factory.

  11. #26
    Registered User mpmarty's Avatar
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    My 1995 SAAB 900 Turbo has over 200,000 miles on it and it left the factory with Mobil 1 in it and has never had anything else. No oil consumption, no turbo replacements and average of over 29mpg on 91Octane Chevron fuel. My 1990 SAAB turbo has many more miles on it with dino oil and has always used a quart at 2000 miles and I've had two turbo center sections to replace in it. My R1200RT (2006) used 15/50 Mobil 1 and has never had to have any added between 5k changes. Ant like ponch nearly zero miles between changes as I always do them in my shop.
    Marty - in the western Oregon mountains.'06RT, (gone '04RT, '86 Venture Royal, '81 Yamaha Virago920, '82Suzuki GS1100GK, '76 Suzuki GT750, Triumph 750 Bonneville, BSA Road Rocket 650, 61" Harley knucklehead)

  12. #27
    Registered User greenwald's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    My last two vehicles, one foreign made - one domestic, both came with synthetic from the factory.
    FYI for BMW motorcycles - all units are red-lined on a dyno at the factory before delivery (watched that little factoid on a Discovery Channel special about BMW). I suspect this accelerates the melding of the seals to the two metal surfaces they are designed to mate with.

    Same 'prepping' would be true if BMW decided to ship new from the factory with 'syn' rather than 'dino.'

    It's the switching from dino to synthetic that often results in some weepage if done too soon, due to the superior viscosity of synthetic.

    Switch anytime after 12k.
    Last edited by Greenwald; 03-12-2013 at 12:35 PM.
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  13. #28
    RAINEY 187132's Avatar
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    You will be fine at 6500 miles. I sell my dealer the Mobil 1 Racing 4T and V-Twin. We have performed oil analysis at a local lab for some of the guys doing the Iron Butts and runs to Alaska. We tested 3 different boxers with between 11,000 and 12,500 on the drain and the oil spec'd out at about 50 percent life left. This was figured by looking at the viscosity, additive depletion & many other aspects of the oil that are to many to list. If you're running any of the quality branded synthetics and even some of the quality conventionals you will still be in a safe zone unless you have a pre-existing issue internal issue. Start out with fresh oil, oil filter and make sure you have a good air filter. High flow performance filters tend to let a lot of particles past which will take a toll on your oil quality and greatly decrease the length of your oil drain

    Take care and have fun

    Jason
    Jason
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    2012 BMW R1200RT

  14. #29
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    To the earlier reply about changing to syn versus dino oil at 8k:

    "Says me and my dealer. I switched over at about 8K for a short tour. In less than 2.5k I went through a quart of oil. On dino I don't have to add between 6k changes."

    IF your bike only had 8k on it, it was too early to switch to syn, not because of the seals but because the rings had not fully matched up to the bores. BMW Oilheads especially, not as much the Hexheads, take about 20k in miles to fully set the rings to the point of nearly no oil use between changes. I changed my Oilhead to syn years ago after 20k miles and it quit using any oil between changes. Years later I ran dino oil for a while (no change), then went back to syn (again no change). Never had any seal leak issues. After the initial set in, I would have no concerns about running syn or dino oil.

    I have seen the bores of an 1150 engine with over 225,000 miles on it, and the cross-hatch pattern in the cylinders was still clearly visible. No ridge at the top of the bores. No piston scuffing. Ring gaps (with the original rings) was still in spec. Engine was reassembled using the original pistons and ring sets. This is on a bike where the owner changed the oil at 5,000 mile intervals. All 225,000 miles on the bike were his alone.

  15. #30
    drgnhtr
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANDYVH View Post
    To the earlier reply about changing to syn versus dino oil at 8k:

    "Says me and my dealer. I switched over at about 8K for a short tour. In less than 2.5k I went through a quart of oil. On dino I don't have to add between 6k changes."

    IF your bike only had 8k on it, it was too early to switch to syn, not because of the seals but because the rings had not fully matched up to the bores. BMW Oilheads especially, not as much the Hexheads, take about 20k in miles to fully set the rings to the point of nearly no oil use between changes. I changed my Oilhead to syn years ago after 20k miles and it quit using any oil between changes. Years later I ran dino oil for a while (no change), then went back to syn (again no change). Never had any seal leak issues. After the initial set in, I would have no concerns about running syn or dino oil.

    I have seen the bores of an 1150 engine with over 225,000 miles on it, and the cross-hatch pattern in the cylinders was still clearly visible. No ridge at the top of the bores. No piston scuffing. Ring gaps (with the original rings) was still in spec. Engine was reassembled using the original pistons and ring sets. This is on a bike where the owner changed the oil at 5,000 mile intervals. All 225,000 miles on the bike were his alone.
    And the fresh oil coating the rear wheel and drive assemblies came from where?

    For the record this was during a fairly high speed run across Nevada and Utah in hot weather.

    (I was going to let this die but I'm bored.)

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