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Thread: List of R75/5 threaded hardware?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    Oh, the humanity!

    To think, a nice old Airhead put together with Ace Hardware/Home Depot/McMaster Carr fasteners!

    And while we're at it, lets use goop from PepBoys (antiseize).

    Lots and lots of these bikes have truly exited the scene, haven't they? That includes these.

    Sorry, BMW ... it's almost as if you shouldn't build them so well that when they get old they suffer such indignities.
    That is an interesting perspective. I have never heard that before. None of the fasteners have any BMW markings. The McMaster-Carr fasteners meet DIN 912-A4 specifications, which is likely better or par with fasteners sold by BMW.


    Certainly, the stainless fastener 'kits' sold are not 'official BMW'. If BMW were to sell marked fasteners, that would be a much more persuasive argument for using 'genuine BMW bolts'. Perhaps that would be an appropriate subject for your letter of complaint to BMW?
    Stan

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  2. #17
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    Nuts and bolts

    First thing, do NOT use zinc plated hardware! That stuff will gall all the threads and drive you crazy. I worked for a dealer who will remain nameless, who insisted on zinc because it was cheaper than cadmium, and the zinc plater was literally across the street. (fast turn around time). Ended up running a tap and die over the threads before I could use the plated hardware.
    I can deal with the stainless stuff, but you have to use anti-sieze on the threads, amd most of it is low torque application.
    So you can see where I'm going with this. Although cadmium platers are somewhat hard to find, all my hardware gets "white" cad and heat treatment. The stuff looks like new.
    If you look at just about any on line BMW parts source, the pictures will show you what you need and the description will often have the size bolt and quantity needed for what is in the diagram. If not, then just pull the item and measure it, then count the quantity that you have. All you need is a metric measuring device.
    Boxerbruce

  3. #18
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    The zinc plating (or lack thereof) is an interesting topic. Most LHS fasteners are zinc plated steel, unless they sell marine grade stainless. I found this article on zinc plating (original) parts: http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vi...g-at-home.html

    Haven't tried home zinc plating yet, but I like the idea. YMMV.
    Stan

    AH# 13238

  4. #19
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    Local Hardware

    I agree that for one or two items, local hardware may be OK. However, at my local hardware (one of the largest in the country - locally family owned) about 4 items at their price paid for a whole box of 25 from McMaster-Carr.

    I have been a purchasing agent for several large corporations, and have done business with McMaster-Carr for 20 years. Not ONE error, misbilling or mis shipment! They are not always the cheapest on some items, but when you need next day, and with a lot of other stuff, they make up for it.

    Like, inside the building - and I have been there quite a few times - it is state of the art and clean!

    I guess as with any company, there will be a mistake from time to time, but I have never had one - after probably hundreds of purchases!

    As for being a purist, I really get boiled when I hear some of the people make - once I got raked over the coals, because I had suggested that I might buy a battery from Wal-Mart or Auto-Zone. I will tell you one thing, I am not buying a $180.00 battery when a $79.00 will do just as well with the same warranty. I'll be darned if I will pay $5.65 for a Socket Head Cap screw that I can buy from my local hardware for $0.65 or get 25 from McMaster for $6.95.

    You purists must have money coming out the wazoo. When it is all said and done, my bike will still run and look as good as yours!!

  5. #20
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    On my Bultaco project bike I have attempted to use the fasteners (I had available) head stamped by the mfg with "Bultaco" in the places that show. On a vintage bike I see the logic of keeping it the way it looks right, so long as it doesn't make it unaffordable for me. After all, what is the other purpose in having old stuff than what it is as an object that looks/operates a certain way? I used to do quite a bit of gunwork and it is an everyday thing to have to make a screw for a gun, at least an older one. Another purist e.g., I bought a decent 6v Honda horn on ebay last week for $9 and the same week a NOS sold for $139. I suppose the "purists" bid that pricey one?
    Another e.g. of the non purist in me was to use SS screws in the alu trim pieces on my R75/5 seat. The seat was totally disassembled and properly refinished the metal but stopped short of using the tiny screws(Hucky's sells them) that slide in the back channel of that trim when I found that I could use box store screws/nuts/ washers instead & that wouldn't rust in place for the next person to fight with. So, when you flip the seat on my bike it will eat your heart out if your a purist, I suppose?
    As for zinc plated threads galling-if they are not hot dipped like "power line hardware" or "farm gate post bolts" and are just flash coated I don't see the issue there as were talking MC's here? Even thin cadmium plating has some limited thread interference when freshly done.
    "If I had my life to live over, I'd dare to make more mistakes next time...I'd relax,I'd limber up... I would take fewer things seriously...take more chances... take more trips...climb more mountains...swim more rivers...eat more ice cream." Jorge Luis Borges at age 85.

  6. #21
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    Zinc is fine - if you don't want stainless

    Why not use anti-seize on everything? What is so hard about that that you can't do everything? Zinc, steel, stainless into aluminum or anything the anti-seize will stop all of the problems. You can use anything as long as it is of the strength that will allow proper torquing. The only problem you need to watch for is that most hardware stuff is basic grade 2 - just over the strength of butter and can twist off easily. On simple stuff, like screwing on your turn signal lenses this is plenty good, but not good enough as a bolt to mount engine in frame. Use either grade 5 or grade 8 equivalent - I forget how metric system designates this, but they do.

  7. #22
    Registered User bmweuro's Avatar
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    1. Take all of your original hardware and degrease it. Do not use a wire brush.
    2. In small batches in a small plastic container spray the hardware with Eagle One mag wheel cleaner for chrome wheels. Let it sit for 3-5 minutes and agitate the hardware with an old tooth brush. You can repeat this twice if needed. Rinse really well with cold water and towel dry.

    You will find that a lot of your original hardware will look close to new again. Don't forget to do the upper triple clamp and sidestand.

    If you are not happy with some or all of it this zinc plating kit will give you a very close look http://www.eastwood.com/ew-electropl...-tin-zinc.html. I use this kit all the time and it works very well.
    www.boxermetal.com
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  8. #23
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    That plating kit looks interesting. I may just try that on some old fasteners but thinking I'll do it w/o buying the kit. My buddy that taught electricity used to do that/plating in his class as a demo when doing basic electrical theory stuff.
    The Eagle One as a cleaner if you google the contents it is a combo of 3 acids so would seem to me to be cheaper to use a detergent degreaser AND a SS brush(HF has a nice asst of brushes on sale now-you get 6 for $1.49) , then one of the acids like commonly available to use to clean MC gas tanks or the non-acid cleaner sold in box stores-never used it but called Evapo-rust?
    Anyone else out there re-plating fasteners in home shop?
    "If I had my life to live over, I'd dare to make more mistakes next time...I'd relax,I'd limber up... I would take fewer things seriously...take more chances... take more trips...climb more mountains...swim more rivers...eat more ice cream." Jorge Luis Borges at age 85.

  9. #24
    Registered User bmweuro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kantuckid View Post
    That plating kit looks interesting. I may just try that on some old fasteners but thinking I'll do it w/o buying the kit. My buddy that taught electricity used to do that/plating in his class as a demo when doing basic electrical theory stuff.
    The Eagle One as a cleaner if you google the contents it is a combo of 3 acids so would seem to me to be cheaper to use a detergent degreaser AND a SS brush(HF has a nice asst of brushes on sale now-you get 6 for $1.49) , then one of the acids like commonly available to use to clean MC gas tanks or the non-acid cleaner sold in box stores-never used it but called Evapo-rust?
    Anyone else out there re-plating fasteners in home shop?
    If you use anything other than a soft plastic bristle brush you will remove the plating. The Eagle One works great and for the price and how much you use it's worth it. I also use it on the engine aluminum and wheel hubs. Making your own plating is easy. The nice thing about the Eastwood plating kit is only spending $70 and it is everything you need in one container. So for under $100 you have a way to clean and restore all of your hardware, top clamp, sidestand, axle tips, steering bearing cup, ends of the engine through bolts......... Your bike will look super original.
    www.boxermetal.com
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  10. #25
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    If you use anything other than a soft plastic bristle brush you will remove the plating.
    Amen to that. And it isn't just the fasteners. Virtually all of the exposed ferrous metal parts were cadmium plated (rear brake rod, cable adjusters, top triple clamp, misc. clamps, foot pegs, etc.). I made the fatal error of not only using a wire brush, but a using wire wheel.... .
    Last edited by Lmo1131; 03-10-2013 at 04:18 PM.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  11. #26
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    I hear you on the wheel-I did a restoration on a 1973 Suzuki 2 yrs ago & the kid in TN I bought it from had screwed up the fenders & a few other parts using wire wheel to dolly it up for ebay pics.There's no going back from that type damage other than refinish or throw away. My comment on using a SS brush was r.e. the threads only and a hand brush at that. Also, clearly the amount of pressure(lightly works better than a hard push) & the brush can be suited for the item such as a brass brush. With very light pressure some fasteners refresh very well. If rust has set in I sometimes clean the best way possible-degrease,wire brush for corrosion then paint it silver if made from unobtanium & not sending something out for replate or grab a new "generic but look alike" fastener. My point was not to grind away on the plated finish but all about rust & corrosion.
    As for my buddy doing classroom plating , I think they were doing copper which it's easy to find a sacrificial metal part that's pure copper. I'm wondering where do you get a pure zinc piece to avoid the kit costs?
    "If I had my life to live over, I'd dare to make more mistakes next time...I'd relax,I'd limber up... I would take fewer things seriously...take more chances... take more trips...climb more mountains...swim more rivers...eat more ice cream." Jorge Luis Borges at age 85.

  12. #27
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    I'm wondering where do you get a pure zinc piece to avoid the kit costs?
    http://stores.ebay.com/hallmarkmetals
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  13. #28
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    You may be able to buy zinc anodes at marine supply stores. Don't know how pure they are, but you'd think it would be pretty high. It's doing the same thing it does in electroplating.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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  14. #29
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    I have a roll of zinc in the shed which used to control moss on my roof. It can be found at most hardware stores. Probably not pure but might work...
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  15. #30
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    Thanks to all for your comments. I'm a long time McMaster-Carr customer and would have no problem ordering from them, but I had hoped to save the time to inventory every fastener. I'm aware of the home plating kits, but the cost plus my time makes it less attractive than the kits. BMWHucky certainly looks like the leader for cost/value, so I think I'll put away what purist pride I have and order stainless from them. This ain't gonna be a 100 point bike, just a very clean rider. Besides, I intend to keep it in motion fast enough that no one can tell the difference!

    Thanks again,

    Art W.

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