R1200GS Accessory plug

[gsjay]

There is a kit offered by BMW to put an accessory up on the front near the dash on the new R1200GS.

I'm not very mechanically inclined. Does anyone know if it's a plug and go type item?

I looked at the description on an online cataloge and it appears that it just plugs in to the wiring harness.

thanks,
gsjay

[bmwmick]

Jason,
It looks like it includes a short wiring harness, power outlet and mounting bracket. It mounts at the left rear edge of the front fender.

HTH,

[wbunning]

There is a kit offered by BMW to put an accessory up on the front near the dash on the new R1200GS.

I'm not very mechanically inclined. Does anyone know if it's a plug and go type item?

I looked at the description on an online cataloge and it appears that it just plugs in to the wiring harness.

thanks,
gsjay

It's not entirely plug and go. It connects to the factory-standard plug's wiring. Instructions call for you to REMOVE THE TANK to run the acc. plug wires up to the front. I'm not sure that is really necessary, but the bigger issue is that with the BMW kit you are still tied to the 5-amp limitation of the factory plug circuit.

What I did was get this kit from Powerlet Products. I connected direct to the battery, removed (easy) the aluminum side cover of the tank, and ran the wires up under it's lip, between the aluminum and plastic tank.
Then I put the plug on the left side of the beak:

This plug gives me 15 amps, more than enough to power my Gerbings stuff, GPS, etc. Also, the plug is always hot. Some guys install a relay into the other plug's line, so the acc. plug is off when the ignition is off.

I actually have a BMW accessory plug kit that I haven't installed yet. My idea is to try pushing a fish wire under the tank, and just pull the connector wires through, then tie-wrap it in place up as far under as I can reach.

[kbasa]

Taking the tank off of the new GS is really, really easy. The fuel lines on the right side are quick disconnects, the fuel pump leads on the top left are a quick disconnect and there's just a couple of allen heads and screws to take out. If it took more than 5 minutes to do, I'd be surprised.

The tricky part of putting in the accessory plug is cutting the hole. I used a router bit on my Dremel tool and the template BMW supplied with the part.

It was pretty easy to do. If you're looking to fish things under the tank, you'd be far better served to take the time to pull the tank off. It'll probably take far less time than fishing the lines with a wire lead.

These are the three leads that come off on the left side, from the top of the tank - one quick disconnect and two color coded connectors.



They come outta here:



Over on the right side, just pull the two vent lines off (the little guys on the bottom), disconnect the fuel line on the top and undo the big allen head bolt down there on the left.



Back on the right side, you undo the allen head bolt that's in the middle of the little silver ring in the left edge of this photo.



Up front, where the tank connects to the beak, are two fasteners that hook those two pieces together. They're little silver torx bit fasteners. Take those out too.

Then, grab the tank at the front and slide it back while you lift it up. That's all there is to it. Nothing too fancy, just some parts to unbolt and disconnect.

I'd recommend against trying to sidestep the tank removal piece as there's a nice big wiring bundle you can tie the power lead for the outlet to. There's not much room down the right side between the throttle cables, the telelever pivot and the tank and the time it'll take to get everything secure under there will be more than what it would take to pull the tank and do it right.

[wbunning]

Taking the tank off of the new GS is really, really easy. If it took more than 5 minutes to do, I'd be surprised.

Thanks. I'll give it a shot. The last tank removal I tried was on an LT. What a bit*h. Your pix make it look much easier than I anticipated.[

The tricky part of putting in the accessory plug is cutting the hole. I used a router bit on my Dremel tool and the template BMW supplied with the part.

I used a 3/4" hole saw for the powerlet plug, and it worked fine in the plastic.

[kbasa]

Oh gads. This'll be a ton easier. I'd take the plastic panels off and just look at it for a bit. You'll see what needs to be done.

[wbunning]

Oh gads. This'll be a ton easier. I'd take the plastic panels off and just look at it for a bit. You'll see what needs to be done.

Yep.. you were right. I had that other plug kit.. with your pix I went out, took the tank off.. 10 min. max job.

Thanks again!

[gsjay]

It's not entirely plug and go. It connects to the factory-standard plug's wiring. Instructions call for you to REMOVE THE TANK to run the acc. plug wires up to the front. I'm not sure that is really necessary, but the bigger issue is that with the BMW kit you are still tied to the 5-amp limitation of the factory plug circuit.

What I did was get this kit from Powerlet Products. I connected direct to the battery, removed (easy) the aluminum side cover of the tank, and ran the wires up under it's lip, between the aluminum and plastic tank.
Then I put the plug on the left side of the beak:

This plug gives me 15 amps, more than enough to power my Gerbings stuff, GPS, etc. Also, the plug is always hot. Some guys install a relay into the other plug's line, so the acc. plug is off when the ignition is off.

I actually have a BMW accessory plug kit that I haven't installed yet. My idea is to try pushing a fish wire under the tank, and just pull the connector wires through, then tie-wrap it in place up as far under as I can reach.

So, isn't 5 amps enough for an electric vest?

Gsjay

[wbunning]

So, isn't 5 amps enough for an electric vest?
Gsjay

Jay..

it will depend on the vest, but it may be CLOSE. If you have a Widder electric vest, it only pulls around 40 watts. That's less than 4 amps. Plenty of room from the 5 amp system, but still not enough left over to run any other electric clothing, for sure. Gerbing's vest pulls 54 watts equalling 4.5 amps at 12 volts.

I don't have a vest.. it's a Gerbing's jacket liner (with sleeves) that pulls 77 watts at full power. That works out to over 6 amps at 12 volts. Even if the bike kicks out 14 volts, it's still over the 5 amp limit. There's nothing left for other trix.

So.. if you're going to pull the tank (btw, Kbasa was right.. no sweat) you may as well install 2 plugs up front: one tied into the can bus system with the BMW kit so that the plug goes off line when you shut down the bike, and one direct to the battery for higher amp requirements.

Incidentally, Touratech also offers this little 'dashboard' like thingy that includes a socket

[kbasa]

I run my Gerbings, my GPS and recharge my cell phone with mine without a problem.

[gsjay]

Jay..

it will depend on the vest, but it may be CLOSE. If you have a Widder electric vest, it only pulls around 40 watts. That's less than 4 amps. Plenty of room from the 5 amp system, but still not enough left over to run any other electric clothing, for sure. Gerbing's vest pulls 54 watts equalling 4.5 amps at 12 volts.

I don't have a vest.. it's a Gerbing's jacket liner (with sleeves) that pulls 77 watts at full power. That works out to over 6 amps at 12 volts. Even if the bike kicks out 14 volts, it's still over the 5 amp limit. There's nothing left for other trix.

So.. if you're going to pull the tank (btw, Kbasa was right.. no sweat) you may as well install 2 plugs up front: one tied into the can bus system with the BMW kit so that the plug goes off line when you shut down the bike, and one direct to the battery for higher amp requirements.

Incidentally, Touratech also offers this little 'dashboard' like thingy that includes a socket

Ok,
with help from all of you I'm headed in the right direction.
I'm going to install the factory set up since I already have it and I ordered dashboard hickey from Touratech w/plug that I can run directly to the battery.
But, what do you think about adding a AP-1 Fuse Panel from Centech
http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml
so that I can add driving lights, maybe up grade the rear accesory plug etc.?
Any ideas on where to mount this fuse panel?
thanks,
gsjay

[gsjay]

Ok,
with help from all of you I'm headed in the right direction.
I'm going to install the factory set up since I already have it and I ordered dashboard hickey from Touratech w/plug that I can run directly to the battery.
But, what do you think about adding a AP-1 Fuse Panel from Centech
http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml
so that I can add driving lights, maybe up grade the rear accesory plug etc.?
Any ideas on where to mount this fuse panel?
thanks,
gsjay

this last post of mine got shuffled down the list pretty quick so I'm pushing it back up to the top hoping someone has a thought or two.
thanks,
gsjay

[kbasa]

If this is for an r12GS, there's not a lot of room to hide things on that bike. Have you thought about the bottom section of the tool tray? That's probably a second best solution as the tray can move around in it's little mounting area.

Maybe up under the rear seat plate? It'll be out of the way there and you'll it'll be convenient to the battery. You'll need to disassemble the whole rear section of the bike, but it's not really that hard. Some torx fasteners hold the whole plate/seat mount to the subframe and off it comes. You'll be able to get inside there pretty easily.

[wb5plj]

This plug gives me 15 amps, more than enough to power my Gerbings stuff, GPS, etc. Also, the plug is always hot. Some guys install a relay into the other plug's line, so the acc. plug is off when the ignition is off.

Hi, I know this is kinda late for this thread but what the hay. I have a 2012 R1200GS and am going to get one of the powerlet sockets kits and mount it up on the left side. I have been trying to find a nice clean way to get it hooked on a relay so it is not hot unless the ignition is on. I saw this comment and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.

[bikerfish1100]

bike specific threads do best in the sub-forum that is created especially for them. in this case, the Hexheads/Camheads. This one is for Oilheads, circa 1995-2004.

Mods- clean up on Aisle O!