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Thread: Major elec problem, can anyone help?

  1. #1
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    Major elec problem, can anyone help?

    Hi guys and gals, I've wanted to join in the past but never found the time. Well now I have the time because I can't ride...

    My friend and I installed Heat Demons on my 2000 R1100R factory grips Friday and they work very well. The problem is during the process we broke something and we can't figure out what. We tapped in to 12v on the yellow/white wire under the tank forward of the connector, picked up the ground at the headlight-all using posi-locks. We used the factory BMW switch that I purchased separately.

    Grip heat- check
    Headlights- check
    Blinkers- check
    Engine- Runs like a top

    Tachometer- fail
    Batt charge light- On
    Right ABS light- Fail
    Left ABS light- check
    F1 Fuse- Blown


    I removed all posi-locks and returned to pre-install condition, replaced F1 15amp fuse and it blows INSTANTLY! Disconnected the connecter, replaced fuse, POP! Blown again. I removed the tank and went over all the harnesses and cannot find anything obvious. I have a multimeter and I have checked continuity at the connector I spliced into and the blue wire does not have continuity and does have a draw on it of .64ohms. We did not touch the blue wire so I am a bit confused. Blue appears to be alternator.

    I need a good wire diagram but I haven't been able to locate one. I have found the color diagrams for the GS model online, but I don't know how accurate they are.

    Anyone have a suggestion?

    Thanks!

    David
    Boyd Tx

  2. #2
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Let me think on it. In the meantime here is a link for RT which I think will be close.

    http://www.mac-pac.org/wp-content/up...ec_Diagram.pdf

    The blue wire to the alternator is D+ and will measure a very low resistance as you have measured.

  3. #3
    Registered User kioolt's Avatar
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    I can't tell you where your problem is but I do have a troubleshooting method that I use to find why fuses are blowing without having to replace a bunch of fuses. Remove the fuse first. Put one lead of your ohmmeter on the load side of the fuse that blows and the other lead on a good ground. You should read a low resistance since your fuse is blowing. When you find the problem and correct it the resistance will go considerably higher.
    2004 R1150RT 145,700 miles
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    Small road corner junkie pffog's Avatar
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    Better yet with a dead short like that, take a 12 v bulb, headlight is the easiest, and connect it across the fuse terminals with a couple of test leads, it will light up but control the current so you don't fry the wiring.

    The light is an easy to see indicator. Next start to wiggle, unplug, twist and shake parts of the wiring harness, if the light goes dim, or flickers, you are narrowing down the culprit, an ohm meter is a very poor way to test as something as little as an instrument resistance bulb will show ZERO resistance, which means unplugging everything on the circuit to see no resistance. Plus you might not see a "flicker" in the reading, that is easy to see watching the bulb. It will never go off, as there is normal circuit draw, that is why a 12v low watt test light is also a poor choice, it will always look bright due to the normal draw.

    Another trick is to get a small compass, and hold it close to the harness, while connecting and disconnecting the "jumper bulb" (easier to do with help). The compass needle will jump if near the wire carrying high currents. Keep moving it down stream and once you go past the short, the deflection will be much less.

    My guess is you pinched a wire someplace during the tank removal/replacement.
    2010 F800GS Full Ohlins package, '04 R1100S Replika
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    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    I like the compass idea!


    The wire that is shorted is green/black. It goes to the tach, indicator lamp panel, fuel gauge damping and left multi function switch on the left handlebar, again on my 1150 RT.

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    Thanks guys! Y'all have been very helpful! Thanks for the schematic, compass, light and multimeter tips. I will give it a shot tomorrow and report back any updates.

  7. #7
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Yellow/white wire is the wire bringing headlight power to the high beam switch. Just think, if you had the Euro version headlight on/off switch, that switch would also turn on/off your kludged-up heated handgrips!
    Kent Christensen
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    Yellow/white wire is the wire bringing headlight power to the high beam switch. Just think, if you had the Euro version headlight on/off switch, that switch would also turn on/off your kludged-up heated handgrips!
    I'm pretty happy with the factory grip heat switch

  9. #9
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    Yellow/white wire is the wire bringing headlight power to the high beam switch. Just think, if you had the Euro version headlight on/off switch, that switch would also turn on/off your kludged-up heated handgrips!
    Quote Originally Posted by 1911XD View Post
    I'm pretty happy with the factory grip heat switch
    According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kludge :
    A kludge (or kluge) is a workaround, a quick-and-dirty solution, a clumsy, inelegant, difficult to extend, hard to maintain yet effective and quick solution to a problem, and a rough synonym to the terms "jury rig", "Jugaad" or "jerry rig". This term is used in diverse fields such as computer science, aerospace engineering, internet slang, and evolutionary neuroscience.

    I think lkchris was questioning the wisdom of running your heated grips off a non-fused headlight circuit that may be inadequate for the combined draw.

    Which reminds me that I may want to add a couple fuses, some fresh wire and a relay before using my 100W high beam much more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rxcrider View Post
    According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kludge :

    I think lkchris was questioning the wisdom of running your heated grips off a non-fused headlight circuit that may be inadequate for the combined draw.

    Which reminds me that I may want to add a couple fuses, some fresh wire and a relay before using my 100W high beam much more.
    That's what I get when working in the garage with a friend w/o a wire diagram....

  11. #11
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    Ok, so the green/black wire checks out good, pretty sure anyway. Since the fuse is blown it would make since that the gauges and lights fail. I tried the compass deal, but I think to many other wires are energized to make that method affective.

    The white wire with the yellow tracer is where the 12v power was taken for the heaters. OK, that was dumb and I will not do that gain. From the schematics I can find it shows that wire goes from the left grip to the right. However, I know it goes further than that because it goes into the main harness and I have continuity from the splice point to the fuse box. I cannot go from the splice forward to the controls.

    Can the handlebar controls be disassembled?

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    Well I figured it out! Load Relief Relay, swapped it with the horn relay, it worked. Went to O'Riely's and they happened to have one in stock for $9.99 (not BMW brand so I put that one on the horn). Next time I will start with the simple things first

    Of course I found this after completely dissembling the front of the bikes and all of the controls. Well at least I learned how it all goes together.

    Well guys, thanks for the help and diagrams!

  13. #13
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1911XD View Post
    Well I figured it out! Load Relief Relay, swapped it with the horn relay, it worked. Went to O'Riely's and they happened to have one in stock for $9.99 (not BMW brand so I put that one on the horn). Next time I will start with the simple things first

    Of course I found this after completely dissembling the front of the bikes and all of the controls. Well at least I learned how it all goes together.

    Well guys, thanks for the help and diagrams!
    Glad to hear things are working.

    I don't want to be the Grinch That Stole Christmas but it's hard to see why either the Load Relief or Horn relays would affect the Fuse 1 circuit. I'm guessing you moved enough wires that the short unshorted itself. Time will tell.

    That said I do hope that you're right and I'm just missing the connection.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger 04 RT View Post
    Glad to hear things are working.

    I don't want to be the Grinch That Stole Christmas but it's hard to see why either the Load Relief or Horn relays would affect the Fuse 1 circuit. I'm guessing you moved enough wires that the short unshorted itself. Time will tell.

    That said I do hope that you're right and I'm just missing the connection.
    Check the 2nd scematic down on this link, it is a great pdf. Both F1 & F7 link to the load relief relay. F7 was empty on my bike because that is the fuse for the factory grip heaters. I located the factory wiring harness for the grip heaters and utilized F7. No wires were shorted.

    http://www.bmwgsclub.nl/schematics/R...Schematics.pdf

    The horn and load relay are the same. I used the horn relay to test the load relay slot and everything worked as advertised.

    http://micapeak.com/bmw/gs/gs11fuse.htm

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    Looks like your final result qualifies for a "well done" at the troubleshooting plus a reminder about the potential problems with shortcut wiring methods- especially if you hate redoing electrical stuff as much as I do.

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