Installing a Fuseblock '06 R1200GS

[bobframe]

The plan is to install a 6 or 8 circuit fuseblock on my '06 1200GS. I have done this on another bike so I understand the basics. Since the block will have some switched circuits, I'll need to include a relay and here's my question....

What's the safest and easiest switched circuit to tap into for a trigger? The bike is brand new to me, so I know where nothing is. I'd appreciate it if suggestions could include a clue as to where the circuit is physically.

Thanks so much,

Bob

[marchyman]

Common is the parking light. I prefer to tap off the headlamp as that way my switched devices don't come on until after the bike is started. One other choice is the accessory socket, but that means your switched devices will stay on for a while after key off.

Tapping into the headlamp on my GS: http://www.snafu.org/pics/r1200gs/2007/0608-wiring/

A fuzeblock install: http://www.snafu.org/pics/r1200gs/2009/0204-fuzebox/

That particular product may not meet your needs as it is limited to 30 amps total (up to 10 amps/circuit) and maxes out at 6 circuits. It is nice and small, though.

[dwestly]

I've got centech boxes on both my GS and my wife's R1200R. Easy to install. Like others I tapped the accessory plug on the left side of the bike. It does keep the circuits active for about 20 seconds after the ignition is turned off. I like this, as it gives me extra time to make inputs to my GPS, etc after I turn the bike off. Here is the centech block on my GS. The extra hole on the bottom left of the tray is a pass-thru that I'm using to run circuits to the block.

DSC02911.jpg

[dwestly]

...and here is the tap point on the accessory plug (this one is on wife's R, but same point on the GS). This is post-solder and before clean-up, taping. Yeh, I know...I'm not the greatest solder artist in the world, LOL.

GPS wiring relay connection.jpg

[rapiddog]

I just did this very thing using a Fuzeblock which prefer because it has the built in relay.
Mounts perfectly under the seat at the rear section closest the tailight.
I ran wires from my GPS and Radar detector so used the parking lamp to tap into for the switched wire.
A very clean and easy install.

To get to the lamp remove the one screw at the bottom of the headlight ring and remove/
Remove the one screw at the top of the headlight securing the complete headlight lense asembly/
It pulls out easily.
Tap into the green/yellow wire (I believe, not the red or brown one).
I drilled a small hole in the back of the hheadlight bucket and ran the wire through and then back to the Fuzeblock.
Simple easy.

[bobframe]

I just did this very thing using a Fuzeblock which prefer because it has the built in relay.
Mounts perfectly under the seat at the rear section closest the tailight.
I ran wires from my GPS and Radar detector so used the parking lamp to tap into for the switched wire.
A very clean and easy install.

To get to the lamp remove the one screw at the bottom of the headlight ring and remove/
Remove the one screw at the top of the headlight securing the complete headlight lense asembly/
It pulls out easily.
Tap into the green/yellow wire (I believe, not the red or brown one).
I drilled a small hole in the back of the hheadlight bucket and ran the wire through and then back to the Fuzeblock.
Simple easy.

Have you, perchance, used a heated jacket AND gloves on a single circuit with the Fuzeblock? As I understand it, the Fuzeblock's "per-circuit" limit is 10A and the Gerbing Jacket plus Gloves is really close to that limit (8.5A at 12V or at 9.8A at 13.8V). I'm so "electrically ignorant" that I don't know what to make of this. I like the Fuzeblock design and relay integration, but worry that its 10A/30A limit may make me regret buying/installing one. Maybe just bite the bullet and do another Centech AP-2.

[rapiddog]

No I haven't. I use a Gerbings jacket liner only...here in sunny SoCal...

[Omega Man]

What's the safest and easiest switched circuit to tap into for a trigger? The bike is brand new to me, so I know where nothing is. I'd appreciate it if suggestions could include a clue as to where the circuit is physically.

I kinda like this plug and play unit from Twisted Throttle

CanBus electrical connector for BMW

HTH OM

[bobframe]

I kinda like this plug and play unit from Twisted Throttle

CanBus electrical connector for BMW

HTH OM

I saw this and read the description...but I'm not 100% sure what it does.

[Omega Man]

This may help Bob-

This adapter is designed to prevent electrical accessories from interfering with the electrical system on late model BMW, Ducati, and other European motorcycles with a Can-BUS electrical system and a "City Light" 194 marker bulb in the headlight.
It includes built-in reverse polarity protection. This item is designed solely to provide a "hot" trigger wire to activate a relay to power other accessories, such as driving lights, accessory fuse blocks, GPS, or other 12-volt electrical devices when the motorcycle is turned on.

Installation is simple:
1. Remove the socket from the headlight housing.
2. Unplug the bulb from the socket.
3. Plug the circuit board into the socket from where you just removed the bulb.
4. Place heat shrink over the socket and circuit board and apply heat.
5. Plug the bulb into the new socket.
6. Using the lead coming from the socket, activate an external relay.

External relay not included.

We recommend the Twisted Throttle Power Hub Auxiliary Motorcycle Fuse Block (sold separately) for attaching up to 6 switched accessories to your motorcycle.

The following bikes are confirmed to use Canbus electrical systems:

BMW
F650GS, '08-
F800GS, '08-
F800S*
F800ST*
HP2 Enduro
HP2 Megamoto
HP2 Sport

[bobframe]

As I understand this (and I've been wrong before), this is added into the existing wiring with the benefit of the added "loose" wire being available to trigger the relay?

[marchyman]

Yes, it fits between the parking light bulb and the bulb harness giving you a tap without the need to modify the stock harness in any way. You can later remove the device to leave the bike in its stock form.

If you decide to otherwise tap into existing wiring do NOT use one of these:

taps.jpg

They often cause future issues. Instead use one of these: http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html They seem to work better.

[Woodbutcher]

I agree with using the positaps. Very easy to use and undo if necessary.

I tapped into the diagnostic plug. I'd have to go look again to see which wire, but my memory is that it was blue/green. Read about using that wire on ADVrider. Nice part about that is that it is close to were you have the fuse block and don't have to run much wire.

[deilenberger]

If you decide to otherwise tap into existing wiring do NOT use one of these:

taps.jpg

They often cause future issues. Instead use one of these: http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html They seem to work better.

+ 100% - I've had to replace entire wiring harnesses on bikes due to the use of these ScotchLoc connectors. Besides damaging the wire being tapped into by slicing strands, they are not waterproof, so they allow moisture to wick up inside the wiring, causing eventual failure from electrolysis induced corrosion of the actual wire.

I wouldn't use these on any item I value.

[bobframe]

+1 on Positaps...have used them before with good results. Downside is high cost and hard to find.